Hammer rubbing on frame/shims?

Not to resurrect an old thread for nothing, but there is so much info here it should be pinned somewhere. I'm currently shimming a 27-2 and this info helps immensely even if dated back a year+. Garbler clearly knows his stuff, I'd feel better if he was doing my work than me, LOL.
 
How to avoid hammer wear, and cylinder rings~leave the gun in the box, and don't shoot it. It will not only keep it's value, but increase after a few decades.

Or you can just shoot it, enjoy it, and not worry about the little things that are cosmetic.
 
Adding to this thread, when I went to clean my powder-stained, dried oil cruddy new to me 28-2, I found the side plate screws loose; tightening them made trigger pull much heavier. I removed the side plate and found a long circular scratch on the inside of the frame. The double action sear pin had worked loose, and was standing proud of the hammer and rubbing the frame. After resetting the pin and staking it, I had hammer wobble. After some careful measuring and checking with a ground straight edge, I found the hammer was .002-.004 thinner than the distance between the plate boss and frame, and the plate boss was out of parallel with the plate side and trigger boss. I blued the boss, then very carefully stoned it until parallel, ending up with more clearance, experimented with .002" shims, ended up with one shim and a nice smooth, non hammer wobbling double action pull, with the hammer dead center in the frame/plate opening. The single action trigger pull was 3.25 lb., a little light for me, and a double action pull in the 7-8 lb. range.
 
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