hammer spring replacement question

[atlatl]

I have changed hammer springs and rebound slide springs on several Smith & Wesson revolvers with generally good results. On both of my N frames, I installed a wolf reduced power hammer spring- but then had to obtain a longer strain screw to provide enough tension to get it to be fully reliable. The double action trigger pull is now somewhere around 9 pounds.

I'm about to swap hammer springs on a 686 and I'm wondering if there is any reason not just to shorten the strain screw, rather than put in a lighter spring and then need a longer strain screw? What is the downside, if any, to just taking tension off the factory spring to achieve a 9 ish pound trigger pull?

Thanks

 

[minconrevo]

Truing the hammer fall and trigger action is part of a really good S&W revolver action job. That partly involves placing just enough Powers shims, in the respective positions, to keep those two parts from touching the frame, at any point of their travel. The mainsprings that have the "power rib" may or may not require a longer strain screw. Personally I like the "feel" of the power rib as opposed to the stock mainspring or the bent arm version of it.

 

[robertrwalsh]

If yours has the newer stirrup on the hammer that presents issues. It isn't like the older design when you start diddling with the springs.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

I’ve always heard that backing out the strain screw was a poor way to lighten the trigger on a Smith so I’m not sure what you’re asking. Having a longer screw that could be moved in or out until you had light strikes or did not have light strikes would be better? Not a S&W armourer by any means but I’ve been into my 617-10 way too much tinkering and experimenting with springs. My last iteration seems to work with a removal of the mim stuff, a K22 hammer, a longer allen strain screw, standard flat mainspring, a lighter trigger return and a smooth K frame target trigger. The wider target trigger makes up for the heavier trigger but this is a .22 so I would think a cf would not have a lot fewer issues with light strikes.

 

[Dump1567]

One of the video's I've watched of Jerry Miculek doing a trigger job involved shortening the strain screw. Obviously testing for reliability with your carry ammo is a must.

The Gunsmith Nelson Ford has some good You Tube videos describing what he does for triggers. In one video he has a chart for what the hammer weight should be for reliably ignition. It's different for hammer guns (Pre-96') and firing pin guns (Post 96'). One of the video's shows how he measures the weight.

Personally, I usually just replace the rebound spring, as most of my Revolvers might be a carry gun. And don't want to tune it for certain primers.