Handgun Malfunction

[22 Short]

I was at the range this weekend shooting a newer model 40. I haven't had it that long and haven't shot it much so I thought I should get some ammo through it.

That is where the issues began. After firing it the trigger would stick back against the frame and not move back into place. I wiggled the cylinder a little bit and it would snap forward. It worked okay for a couple of cylinders but then it continued so I put it away.

I tried it at home with some spent rounds had the same results. The trigger remained in the rear position of the trigger guard and then moved back into the ready position with the cylinder wiggle.

Any thoughts or experience any of you might have relative to this issue.

Thanks.

 

[22 Short]

Sorry wrong place this should be in Smith revolvers 1980-present. Is There any way of moving this?

 

[chief38]

Probably would be fine in S&W Smithing section.

Your problems could be as simple as built up crud, dried oil, or rust inside. Could be as complicated as a broken Stud, a broken Spring, etc but not something I can diagnose from here. I suggest seeing a competent Gunsmith and let him take a peek under the hood.

 

[federali]

My guess is that the rebound or return spring needs attention. That spring lies inside the gun, low behind the trigger. However, unless you've had some training and own a few basic armorer's tools, I don't recommend climbing inside the gun.

 

[misswired]

Search S W revolver detail strip on Utube.... GunBlue490 has an hour and half video well worth watching. He'll guide you through maintenance and inspection..... very informative for us newbies.

 

[fishcreekrim]

I consider a thorough cleaning and lubrication the first step in such situations.

 

[22 Short]

This gun was pretty much NIB when I purchased it and looking at the screws and general condition I could almost guarantee it has never been opened up.

My first thought is someone bought it and this same problem occurred for them and they dumped it. Or they didn't like the recoil of it and g Or something more pleasant to shoot.

Either way it needs corrected and I was just wondering if there was a "oh that happens all of the time and you need to...". And that is kind of what you folks are saying to me. Get a competent gunsmith on it and they'll figure it out.

I do appreciate the replies and will also look at the suggested video and learn more about the innards and how these work.

Thanks.

 

[H Richard]

Without any disassembly. First remove grips. Cock hammer back and spray profusely with gunscrubber/brake & parts cleaner or similar cleaner in the hammer opening and trigger opening. Best doing this outdoors or over a shop sink and with ventilation. Let drain, spray again, let sit awhile, overnight. Spray again and shake out well, then spray with lubricant. Try cycling and see if this has cleaned out and loosened up the action.

 

[Protocall_Design]

It sounds like the hand is getting trapped between the ratchet and the frame when the trigger is back. I have seen this on a lot of the newer guns. IF this is the problem, the cylinder will be locked up tight when the trigger is back, and pushing the chamber slightly past the barrel.

There was no attempt at fitting at the factory, they just stick in the parts, shut the sideplate and ship it. This condition gets better over time with use, but it shouldn't be like that. The gunsmith way to fix it is to thin the tip of the hand so it fits properly. It's about a 15 minute job all said and done.

 

[Hondo44]

When I learned auto mechanics in the '60s, and diagnosing a poorly running engine, the by-words were: "Tune first, then test".

When I learned gunsmithing it was: "Clean first, then test". So I agree with fishcreekrim and H Richard above. Flood the action with a CLP spray; cleaner, lubricant and preventative. Especially in the hand and cyl ratchet area, and in behind the trigger where the return spring is. Let drain and then test for proper function.

I take it that you're not experienced in gun smithing or trouble shooting.

But if it still malfunctions there's one simple thing you can do before spending money on it.

As Protocall Design posted above, check the hand where it protrudes thru the recoil shield and cyl ratchet for sticking and/or machining burrs. Very common on new guns.

Open cyl, push cyl thumbpiece all the way to the rear and hold with left hand, inspect the cyl hand with magnification while dry firing the action in DA mode. Any sticking there will be apparent.

Inspect the cyl ratchet for burrs. Clean up with a piece of 400 to 800 grit sand paper or a stiff wire brush. Relube the cyl hand and ratchets and dry fire repeatedly with cyl closed using snap caps.

I believe it's a new gun that just needs some breaking in. If that fails and you have the interest and motivation, watch he video and pull the side plate to access the hand and inspect as Protocall Design described. If not, off to the gunsmith.

Good luck and have fun. There's a tremendous satisfaction to fixing your own guns, but also knowing one's limitations.

 

[misswired]

The Jerry Mucilek spring installation video shows him using an ink pen to install the rebound spring..... another helpful hint.

I'm curious how that grip safety interacts with the trigger? Or does it?

 

[ABPOS]

I'm curious as to what "new" means. I didn't think they made these any longer and haven't for a long time.

Would you feel open to posting pics? It sounds like a cool gun. I hope you figure out how to fix it and enjoy it.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I'm curious how that grip safety interacts with the trigger? Or does it?

There is no grip safety. The cylinder bolt blocks the hammer from cocking when the cylinder is open.

 

[bigggbbruce]

Try opening the cylinder, pull thumb release to the rear and cock hammer..

Does the tip of the hand protrude past the recoil shield? It should NOT..(N frames it can) if it does it needs to be trimmed.

 

[Revolver Man]

I had a similar malfunction in my 617. It was all due to me installing a lighter trigger return spring by Wolff. I installed a pound heavier spring and the problem went away.

 

[Hondo44]

I'm curious how that grip safety interacts with the trigger? Or does it?

The more current Model 40 no longer has the grip safety. IIRC the grip safety blocks the hammer.