Has anyone shot .38 Super through their .357??

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I've shot 9x19, 9x21 and 38 super plus more than a dozen other calibers through this Medusa 686. The only inaccurate load that I have used is the .380.
Mark

Wait... You can get a Medusa conversion now? I have shot the Medusa, and desire one strongly but if it is an aftermarket conversion now that really has me intrigued.
 
Yeah, I do it all the time, but don't recommend it for everyone. For currently manufactured factory ammo, only Winchester (both Silver Tip and FMJ) and Magtech will chamber in modern unaltered S&W revolvers. Other brands will not, such as Aguila, Armscor, UMC, Remington, Federal, CorBon, Fioochi, PMC, etc.

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I have found the exact same thing... I've never shot any Supers through a S&W .357 Magnum but have shot them through a Model 36 snubbie...and they work fine but the rims are not quite as thick as a .38 and as result the headspace is a "little" loose...

To solve the problem of shooting Supers in a revolver I found two 686-7s and have fun with them... I do however think that a snubbie in Super would be better than a .357 Magnum in terms of blast and recoil and with the straight walled case better than 9mm which will sometime back out of the cylinder on a +P load jamming things up...

Bob
 
38 Super in 357

OK my take: First, you can shot 38 Super [all USA brands] in any Ruger. Second, you can shot some brands of 38 super in some Colts and some S&W models. Never in ANY 38 period, it's a pressure thing, unless your just born stupid. Now for those who want to know why all Ruger's, it's because there cylinders are larger, see simple. If you reload as I do you must full size or the cartridge will not seat on the semi-rim, if you do reload 38 Super the RCBS dies will give you the right size for most 357's but I have run into some tight S&W's over the years, now why do it, good question, in my case just because I can and every re-loader knows it's easy to get a 38 Spec. to perform exactly as a 38 Super when shot from a 357, so pick your poison. Half a century shooting and still have all my parts, because I make sure I understand what I'm doing.
 
I do however think that a snubbie in Super would be better than a .357 Magnum in terms of blast and recoil and with the straight walled case better than 9mm which will sometime back out of the cylinder on a +P load jamming things up...

Bob
Bob,
I have a few model 940s that I have had opened up to 38 Super. Going to do a third one in 9x23.

The nice thing is that since the revolver head spaces on the moon clips it will fire 9mm or 38 Super interchangeably.
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Bob,
I have a few model 940s that I have had opened up to 38 Super. Going to do a third one in 9x23.

The nice thing is that since the revolver head spaces on the moon clips it will fire 9mm or 38 Super interchangeably.

SAA

Can any of the Ti/Sc, 38+P revolvers be machines for moon clips,,

And chamber reamed for the 9MM/38Super ammo??

Or is the reaming best left to the SS cylinders.

tx
 
SAA

Can any of the Ti/Sc, 38+P revolvers be machines for moon clips,,

And chamber reamed for the 9MM/38Super ammo??

Or is the reaming best left to the SS cylinders.

tx
Not a problem.

If you search the Forum you will find a few threads from WC145. He had his 360 opened up to 9x23. I think Mark over at Pinnacle did his.
 
Concerning "carbon" buildup shooting 38s in a 357.

It's not the carbon you have to worry about, but erosion within the chambers (that erosion or flame cutting that occurs at the mouth of the 38 case) that results from shooting 38s in a 357. Excessive shooting of 38s in the longer 357 chamber can cause sticky extraction when a 357 is fired in a chamber that has been eroded by 38s. the case expands into the erosions within the last one tenth of an inch of the 357 case. This occurs when many thousands of 38 are fired within the chamber.In other words, it takes a whole bunch of 38s to cause this.

It usually doesn't effect the 357 but can if a lot of 38 shooting occurs.

That is the reason I fire only 38s in a 38 revolver, and only 357s in a 357 revolver. I'm just being safe with my 357s. My 38s get fired a whole lot more than my 357.
 
I have a charter arms 357. It is clearly not of the quality of a S&W.
I picked up a box of 38 super from sportsmans guide that said pistol and revolver ammunition. The cartridge is much smaller than my other ammo which made me ask a local gun shop if shooting it in my mag pug target would be a good idea. The extra pressure made it a bad idea. I went looking for actual experience shooting this out of a revolver and found this

.38 Super Auto in a .38 Spl +P revolver? - The Firing Line Forums

I will not be shooting this out of a charter arms revolver even though it chambers and ejects out of the cylinder.
 
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Very interesting subject matter with well versed contributions to the dialogue. Any more input on the reputable & experienced outfits to do conversion work?

There appears to be a wide variety of S&W's to shop:
J-Frame 5 Shot .38/.357
K-Frame 6 Shot .38/.357
L-Frame 581,681,586,686, 686 plus,.357's
696 5 Shot .44Spl
N-Frame 25/27/28, 57/657, 29, 629, & 625 LC.
X-Frame 500, & 460

http://www.pinnacle-guns.com/revolver.asp


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about a week ago i purchased a 686-1 6" ss and also the same day at the gun show i purchased some georgia arms 38 special ammo for it, i later the same day went to the indoor range shot it at 10 yards about a 1.5-2" group and also shot it all the way back 20-22yards about 3-3.5" group. i have not shot it with 357 ammo as of yet. i'm 53 years old, poor eyesight,and drink to much coffee, so i'm thrilled about the accuracy, and the potential of this 686

Late last year I found and bought a NIB revolver identical to yours. It has proven remarkably accurate with common 130 gr. FMJ .38 Special ammo. With 158 gr. handloads, on target results have been even better.

Many of us can identify with your vision issues. A pair of inexpensive 1x reading glasses will likely allow you to see the front sight very clearly. Using a 6 O'clock hold extremely consistent results can be obtained shooting targets.
 
What a great thread. I never would have thought about any of this.

Thanks
 
I had a Model 686 4" barrel rechambered to 38 Super several years ago. The exterior diameter of most 38 Super ammo exceeds the diameter of .357 Magnum factory ammo. Therefore my chambers are bigger but I can still fire 357 ammo....but it puffs the brass noticeably. The cylinder is also milled for moonclips.

Here's my results in a nutshell. The revolver shoots poor groups with jacketed .38 Super ammo...but does much better with jacketed .357 bullets.

Net net...the conversion wasn't worth it....but I don't regret doing it!
 
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