Help :Barrel Swap Question

Sounds to me like the barrel was put on with Loctite. The proper amount of heat will deactivate it (over 350 F). If done carefully, you can usually get the job done without damaging the bluing. I have done a few of those. Personally, I would get the gun back and keep it as is, or send it to someone else (not me, I only work on my own guns).
 
If that's the case any other smith would have to re-blue as well.

If the bluing is damaged S&W will reblue it. It'll look as good as it did when they got it.
 
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If that's the case any other smith would have to re-blue as well.

If the bluing is damaged S&W will reblue it. It'll look as good as it did when they got it.
While I was inclined to go along with your opinion that his best choice is to proceed with the original plan, if S&W reblues it its collector value will drop to the value of a poorly done reblued gun. Like Ruger, S&W no longer actually does bluing. Neither still use processes that chemically bond however many oxygen atoms to to surface iron atoms. At both factories the new substitute for bluing is an obviously different color. Remember, part of the original poster's motivation is to return the gun to the way it was made to restore collector value. It is still common for small businesses to reblue the old fashioned way. That argues for having the job done locally. However, I'd ask S&W if it is likely that they'd have to reblue to cover up heat discoloration. Also, S&W's rebluing charge is high so I'd ask what that could wind up costing.
 
The OP's bbl is 'siezed' and needs to be cut off according to the S&W Service Dept.
'Ignatz' had the same response about his 586-7,,seized bbl, needs to be cut off for removal.

What's this all about. I don't think I've ever heard of that response or method being used in a bbl swap done at the factory before.
Gunsmithing some 1917 Enfields and and maybe a Ruger Standard Auto once in a great while w/a relief cut,,but never a S&W (or Colt).
Even Lugers come off with the right wrench and blocking.
But then I do spend most of my time under a big pile of rocks and old guns.

Maybe the factory is using a thread locker for ease of installation.
Not so easy to come off w/o cut and extract.

Just some thoughts.

..Hope you end up with what you want w/o getting too deep into it all.
 
That is one of the reasons of two of my life mottos.

A. Let sleeping dogs lie.

B. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
Frame crack

You may want to check the frame in thin area adjacent the yoke.
If the barrel has been over tightened this will cause a parallel crack,rendering the gun junk.Have seen several 1917's that have cracked in this manner.
Sid V.
 
While I was inclined to go along with your opinion that his best choice is to proceed with the original plan, if S&W reblues it its collector value will drop to the value of a poorly done reblued gun. Like Ruger, S&W no longer actually does bluing. Neither still use processes that chemically bond however many oxygen atoms to to surface iron atoms. At both factories the new substitute for bluing is an obviously different color. Remember, part of the original poster's motivation is to return the gun to the way it was made to restore collector value. It is still common for small businesses to reblue the old fashioned way. That argues for having the job done locally. However, I'd ask S&W if it is likely that they'd have to reblue to cover up heat discoloration. Also, S&W's rebluing charge is high so I'd ask what that could wind up costing.

My post was responding to Protocall_design's hypothetical. Rebluing is a moot point however, S&W isn't using heat. So that's climbing hills that don't exist. The owner posted that S&W: "....said they would have to cut it and use an easy out." So we know the process they'll use and rebluing isn't involved.

But if it was, my point is the 16-4 was produced well after S&W ended the carbona bluing and turned over their bluing to a contractor, hence my post: "It'll look as good as it did when they got it [when the gun was new]." Same people, same process, and same results, color, shine, etc. It won't be: "...a poorly done reblued gun."

Hope that helps,
 
I'm sure things will turn out fine. I've always been happy with what they've done for me. It's just a cryin' shame to waste that 6-inch barrel, but it's your gun. :(
 
I Got my 16-4 4" back from S&W today.The gun looks great and It's back in its original configuration with matching serial # box , cleaning kit & papers.. Alas, they did have to cut the 6" barrel...Cost was $148 labor and shipped both ways.

I gave them the go ahead on doing the barrel swap 12/6/19 and got it back1/7/20. Not bad considering they were closed 2 weeks for Christmas/New Years Holiday.
I posted a couple of pictures in the S&W Revolvers : 1980 to present.

Ed
 
I wish I'd seen this earlier. I'm calling BS on the "seized" story, sorry. I absolutely don't believe cutting the barrel would be necessary to remove it under any circumstances. Think about it - make it shorter to do - what? get a good grip on it? Ridiculous.
No. Not going for it. I've had several barrels changed over the years and never heard of this issue. That little "trick" cost you an extra $100 for a barrel you can't sell.
 
Did they give you back the cut barrel. A K frrame 32 barrel is worth good money. I can't imagine why they would need to cut it to get it out. They don't get torqued up against the frame that hard.

I did cut a 7mmBR barrel off right in front of the reciever on an XP100 once to remove it. Wouldn't budge. Cut it off and the rest came out with a little effort nd an easy out. But in that case the barrel shoulder wa really ttorqued up against the receiver. I have a reciever and barrel wrench and Remington never come off very easy even when warmed up.
 
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This was my returned barrel.

Well how long is that piece of barrel?

One thing about the full lugged barrels: it can be re-threaded, the ext rod opening can be extended by milling it longer, and that will eliminate the original retaining pin hole for the front locking bolt. Drill new lock bolt and pin holes.
 
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