HELP! Brand new 686+ 3" locked up - cylinder release sticking foward

With the cylinder open, the center pin should stick out the back, and you should be able to push it in, and have it spring back. Does it do this?
 
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Send it back...don't sweat not being able to shoot it over the long weekend they'll be many more times soon to use it...patience young man.

S&W has excellent customer service but I would emphasize in a polite and professional manner your disappointment over S&W's shoddy workmanship if there is truly a problem.

I've been a proud owner of S&W revolvers for 40+ years...the darn smoothest double actions ever made!
 
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Send it back...don't sweat not being able to shoot it over the long weekend they'll be many more times soon to use it...patience young man.

S&W has excellent customer service but I would emphasize in a polite and professional manner your disappointment over S&W's shoddy workmanship if there is truly a problem.

I've been a proud owner of S&W revolvers for 40+ years...the darn smoothest double actions ever made!

I too have owned and trusted my life to S&W revolvers while on the job. Send it in, be patient and it will come back right.
 
I don't see anything wrong on the video. When you close the cylinder release latch will be pushed back by ejector rod allowing you to cock the hammer, which apparently you can do when you pull release latch back simulating closed cylinder.


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triple-tap-FL, I made a quick video of a similar vintage S&W so you can see what a "working" one looks like, and in the video I point out a couple additional items you could check.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90iiZDjosuU[/ame]
 
Also, check the lug under the barrel. Use the tip of a small screw driver. Is it springing in and out? Does thumb piece and bolt move back and forth smoothly with thumb pressure with cylinder open. It should. The center pin in ejector rod tube should stick out the back about 1/8" when open and when pressed flush to the center of ratchet the front of it should be long enough to be just past flush with the tube.

I would disassemble the gun bolt, its slot, spring and plunger and check its for smoothness if it does notwork smoothly with cylinder open.

I would remove ejector rod and check it, the springs and the spring collar.

You can damage your revolver doing these incorrectly. Either get a gunsmith to do it or study up. They are not really had to do, d but, you must do it right.
 
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Looking at the video, the nose of the bolt appears to be extending slightly beyond the frame when it is in the forward position instead of being flush with the frame. This would push the cylinder center pin too far forward resulting in the nose of the bolt rubbing on the back of the extractor star causing difficulty opening the cylinder. Just my opinion.
 
Hello all,

Today, I purchased a 686+ 3" 3-5-7 revolver. None of the local shops in my area had one in stock for several months, and I finally received one that I tracked down.

However, when I went to the FFL to pickup the gun, the cylinder release button is sticking in the forward position and making the cylinder incredibly hard to open.

I also cannot cock the hammer or even pull the trigger for DA UNLESS I manually hold the cylinder release button to the rear-most position on the frame.

First, you still bought the gun even though you knew it was not working correctly..

New gun... send it in.. bolt issue...
 
OP, your YouTube video shows proper function. However, you are not showing enough.

If you can show a picture of the backside of the cylinder so that we can see the nub of the extractor that pushes the cylinder release to unlock the action, that would be helpful.

Also, if you could show a picture from the top looking down over the rear sight with the cylinder closed would be helpful. I have a sneaking suspicion that the crane extension is bent and it aligns the cylinder either too far to the left or right so the nub doesn't engage the hole in the recoil shield.

My guess is that either a misaligned crane was installed at the factory and wasn't caught during a QC inspection, or the revolver was subjected to a significant amount of wrist-flicking that bent the crane.

If it is a crane issue, your revolver will have to return to the factory.
 
I have a sneaking suspicion that the crane extension is bent and it aligns the cylinder either too far to the left or right so the nub doesn't engage the hole in the recoil shield.

My guess is that either a misaligned crane was installed at the factory and wasn't caught during a QC inspection, or the revolver was subjected to a significant amount of wrist-flicking that bent the crane.

If it is a crane issue, your revolver will have to return to the factory.


I think you're on to something.
 
This might be a troll .no response to the answersto his problems and all post (9)on this subject

Thanks for your contribution there, buddy. couldn't possibly be that I headed out of town for the holiday weekend and had limited internet. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks to those with helpful comments (essentially everyone except 'walter o').

I was able to confirm that the center pin was sheered off. There was barely anything pushing the cylinder release back into the frame - This is why the gun would lock up when the cylinder was closed. My video only showed the rear of the cylinder, or I am sure one of you would have quickly pointed out the lack of a 'nub' on the end of the center pin.

Its on its way back to S&W, as I couldn't get them to just send me a new center pin... Oh well. At least I was able to shoot the gun this weekend. Amazing piece of art! I absolutely love the 3" barrel and how the gun balances.

Ammo choices were limited, but the Hornandy 125 gr. American Gunner rounds were producing some amazing groups at 15 and 25 yards. The 158 gr. range ammo was plenty accurate as well, but I am glad the 'cheap' hornandy defensive ammo performed so well.

Thank again all. Will post update when the gun gets back from the factory...
 
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T
Its on its way back to S&W, as I couldn't get them to just send me a new center pin...

In my experience S&W will never send a part even the simplest ones. My understanding is they don't want to take chances when they send a part, user installs it, firearm goes through explosive disassembly and they are held liable.
 
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