Do you have Kitchen Dish Washing 'scrub' sponges where one side is a coarse surfaced scrubb pad?
That coarse surface is 'Scotchbrite'.
The same material that they sell in separate sheets that SA Fireman talks about in post #12.
The scrub pad Scotchbrite is pretty coarse compared to the maroon and grey colored stuff.
But if you use it along with some oil or even water, it will not cut as much and will take the high polished surface you have now from the 2000 grit polish and bring it down in brightness.
I'm assuming you want to reduce the high glare polish the 2000 grit polish gave you on the barrel back down to better match the factory look of the frame and the rest of the revolver.
You can also use steel wool. Use one of the coarser grades like 00 grade or 000 grade.
It will cut the glare down but will likely still leave a shine to the metal.
The Scotchbrite is a better material to reduce the glaring polish.
If you can get some 'pumice powder' that will work as well.
Commonly used to polish wood finishes, it is sold by stores that sell wood refinishing products here.
A dry very fine abrasive powder. You can try it in it's dry state,,just a little on a soft cloth and wipe down the surfaces.
Use it on a damp w/water cloth and you will get a slightly different look as it cuts a little faster.
None of the above will change any dimensions or harm anything.
When done, brush out any polishing dust and residue from the mechanism especially if you use the pumice powder as it is very abrasive.
You can experiment with directional polishing of any of these to see what looks best.
Since the original factory polishing grit lines are likely gone, just do what looks the best to your eyes.
These modern S&W parts are mostly finish polished in bulk in vibratory polish machines with polishing 'stones' loaded in with the parts doing the work.
Not unlike we clean brass cases for reloading.
That's where they get that certain look to them.
If you have access to a wire wheel set up spinning on an arbor,,then you can use that to put a very nice burnished finish on the metal.
First coat the metal with oil,,any oil will do.
Then with very light pressure against the spinning wire wheel, go over the surfaces. Use a non-directional pattern to the work.
The surfaces will take on a very nice gray tone look very much like the orig S&W finish.. Very easy and quick to do.
Just some ideas.
That coarse surface is 'Scotchbrite'.
The same material that they sell in separate sheets that SA Fireman talks about in post #12.
The scrub pad Scotchbrite is pretty coarse compared to the maroon and grey colored stuff.
But if you use it along with some oil or even water, it will not cut as much and will take the high polished surface you have now from the 2000 grit polish and bring it down in brightness.
I'm assuming you want to reduce the high glare polish the 2000 grit polish gave you on the barrel back down to better match the factory look of the frame and the rest of the revolver.
You can also use steel wool. Use one of the coarser grades like 00 grade or 000 grade.
It will cut the glare down but will likely still leave a shine to the metal.
The Scotchbrite is a better material to reduce the glaring polish.
If you can get some 'pumice powder' that will work as well.
Commonly used to polish wood finishes, it is sold by stores that sell wood refinishing products here.
A dry very fine abrasive powder. You can try it in it's dry state,,just a little on a soft cloth and wipe down the surfaces.
Use it on a damp w/water cloth and you will get a slightly different look as it cuts a little faster.
None of the above will change any dimensions or harm anything.
When done, brush out any polishing dust and residue from the mechanism especially if you use the pumice powder as it is very abrasive.
You can experiment with directional polishing of any of these to see what looks best.
Since the original factory polishing grit lines are likely gone, just do what looks the best to your eyes.
These modern S&W parts are mostly finish polished in bulk in vibratory polish machines with polishing 'stones' loaded in with the parts doing the work.
Not unlike we clean brass cases for reloading.
That's where they get that certain look to them.
If you have access to a wire wheel set up spinning on an arbor,,then you can use that to put a very nice burnished finish on the metal.
First coat the metal with oil,,any oil will do.
Then with very light pressure against the spinning wire wheel, go over the surfaces. Use a non-directional pattern to the work.
The surfaces will take on a very nice gray tone look very much like the orig S&W finish.. Very easy and quick to do.
Just some ideas.
