Help in Identifying My Top-Break Handgun

[chwats]

Hello,

I have a top-break S&W handgun that I would like to learn more information on. I was told by my father it is in calibre .32 however I see a .38 stamped on the barrel? I will attach some pictures of the gun and any numbers and stamping that I see on it. It is not functioning at the moment, it will not cock fully and the cylinder seems to be bound on something. The hammer and trigger appear to work when it is opened and the cylinder rotates freely when opened just not when it is closed. I am wondering if this is something that can be fixed? Or, should I just leave it alone? I don't plan on shooting it much if it can be fixed because of it's age but it would be cool if it could work again! Any and all info in this gun would be great! When it was made, what model it is, calibre, ETC. Thanks!!

 

[JH1951]

Welcome to the forum from Pennsylvania!
Pictures will help a lot in identifying what you have.

 

[chwats]

Reply

Thanks! I was having trouble posting some pictures, I think I figured it out and was able to post.

 

[thadheth]

You appear to have a .38 caliber Double Action revolver from around 1885 to 1890. The barrel looks to be 6" long (measured from the front of the cylinder), which is a bit less common than the shorter lengths. .38 caliber at that time was the .38 Smith and Wesson (not the .38 Smith and Wesson Special, which is a larger, more powerful cartridge that was introduced in 1902 as I recall). The grips (stocks as S&W calls them) most likely were hard black rubber. Perhaps some of the experts will be along soon to tell you which specific variation of the Double Action you have.

 

[BMur]

Late 4th model

Welcome aboard!
You have a late 4th Model Double Action in 38 Smith & Wesson. See the attached photo reference from the volume 9 Flaydermans guide. Yours is a late production by the serial number likely produced in 1908-09. The six inch barrel is much more desirable however yours is not antique so a curio license or FFL would be required to transfer it if sold. The actions on these are not normally a simple fix. Clearances are tight and serviceable replacement parts are out there but often not easy to locate. Without having it in hand to examine its very difficult to evaluate the extent of the action repair. Usually with one in the " appearance " that yours seems to be in? It might just be a bad spring or a combination of springs.

 

[BMur]

Cylinder bolt

So, I looked closely at your excellent photos and borrowed one of them? Please see photo attached. That visible line on the cylinder is called a drag line. It's telling us that there is a problem with the bolt and/or bolt spring. If you open the gun completely? With the barrel and cylinder tipped all the way down " Top break open". Then in Single Action mode with your thumb? Draw the hammer slowly back and watch that little bolt on the frame floor. It should immediately drop below the deck. Like a gophers head dropping down into his hole? If it doesn't that's a significant repair because it requires dismantling the gun almost completely to get at it. Without experience I wouldn't recommend it.
Try dropping several drops of gun oil in that hole also. It might be bone dry!

 

[Amsdorf]

Old, I'd say.

 

[Oyeboteb]

Hello,

I have a top-break S&W handgun that I would like to learn more information on. I was told by my father it is in calibre .32 however I see a .38 stamped on the barrel? I will attach some pictures of the gun and any numbers and stamping that I see on it. It is not functioning at the moment, it will not cock fully and the cylinder seems to be bound on something. The hammer and trigger appear to work when it is opened and the cylinder rotates freely when opened just not when it is closed. I am wondering if this is something that can be fixed? Or, should I just leave it alone? I don't plan on shooting it much if it can be fixed because of it's age but it would be cool if it could work again! Any and all info in this gun would be great! When it was made, what model it is, calibre, ETC. Thanks!!

I can not get the images to enlarge - when I click on them to do so I get taken to "My Pictures" in my own computer, which of course, doe not have these images stored.

Anyone else having trouble getting these images to enlarge/

 

[OLDSTER]

Hello from North Dakota. Plenty of guys can help you here.

 

[thadheth]

I can not get the images to enlarge -

Anyone else having trouble getting these images to enlarge/

Yes, originally could not get them to open at all. Now they all open, but only if you click on the left thumbnail - the right thumbnail shows only the 2 photos in the original post. The additional photos would have helped me, since they contain the serial number - thanks to BMUR, the approximate date of manufacture has been identified correctly. This is my first experience with thumbnail photos opening differently.

 

[chwats]

Thanks for the info! I appreciate it.

 

[chwats]

Thanks for the info!! This gun was handed down by my father so it has sentimental value. I appreciate your research for me in to this!!

 

[chwats]

Thanks for the info!! I appreciate it you researching this for me. The bolt on the frame floor does not retract as you mentioned, it can be manually moved, but does not automatically retract with the hammer. It probably is not worth the effort to try and get this to work as I probably would not fire this gun due to it's age. It would be cool if it worked though! This gun was passed down to me from my father so it has sentimental value. I cleaned it the best I could and oiled it up, it looks pretty good for a gun this age!

 

[chwats]

Thanks for the info and research in to my gun, I appreciate it!!

 

[BMur]

Well,
It's up to you I suppose but it is a family heirloom and looks to be in very good condition overall. The longer barrel helps a lot. Value is much higher on these " functional" and much lower when they are not so if it was me? I'd fix it. Like anything collectible. When they work they are worth a lot more! I've seen others presented on this site in much worse mechanical condition with replaced parts etc. yours seems to be a simple spring issue and a pair of good original grips that can be found at the larger gun shows or surfing the webs for $35-$50.

 

[chwats]

Thanks! I might consider getting it fixed though I must admit, I am reluctant to hand it over to just any gunsmith. I have the original grips for it, they were off so I could clean it thoroughly.