Help me pick a wheelgun

[corpulent]

I'm really interested in getting a S&W .357/.38, but I'm unclear on the variations. I'd like, ideally, a 4" barrel and nickel/stainless rather that blued. The gun would be for the collection/home defense/target practice, and not likely for "carry."
Here's what I think are my options, please correct me and add any personal experience:
Model 60: small frame, ~$600--Maybe feels "small"?
Model 66: medium frame, discontinued, ~$500--Hard to find, unreliable for .357?
Model 627: large frame, ~$800--Why the extra $?
Model 686: medium frame, ~$700--

I don't think I'm concerned w/capacity, type of sights, type of grips or some of the other differences. I've read that the 60 and 66 like .38 better than .357 (like they don't handle it as well?). Might be hard to find a nice used 66 for a reasonable price? Best bang for the buck would seem to be the 686; nice medium frame and medium price. I guess I'd be leaning towards new over used, but you never know what you can find. Any comments on durability, functionality, "feel," etc. are appreciated. And if my prices are way off.

thanks
-c

 

[jmathis84]

686 FTW. Tough as they get. Great for shooting with the weight and can handle just about any load ya can get. They are the best 357 S&W makes.

 

[geraldo]

revolver question

buy a nice model 10-4 heavy barrel or a model 13 , you can find these in good condition for less than the models you listed above, nice pistols ! I have a model 10-4, one of my favorite guns, geraldo

 

[murphydog]

A 4" 686 is a great choice, and you can find nice used examples for $450-500. You will probably not shoot a model 66 enough to have problems, and it (being out of production) may be the more "collectible" gun in the long run.

 

[A10]

I'd suggest you try them all at a local range/rental place and see which ones are right for you. It's a very individual choice. My preferences run to the large frame revolvers, but that's just me (and one or two other forum folks)....

 

[kbm6893]

Forget any 2" snubbie. They're made for carry, which is not your purpose, and for their intended purpose (self defense), they're a good choice. But for a home/plinking gun, get a 4" .357. You can shoot .38 if you want. I had a perfect 66-2 4" that I should have never sold. Got it for $325 5 days after my wedding (I won some money at a casino on my honeymoon to pay for it). I got freaked out by the whole "be careful how many .357's you shoot or it will blow up" possibility. I replaced it with a mint 686-3. I've since sold a 686 snubbie and a 64-3, but the 4" 686 is never going away.

 

[Just Shoot]

I sure like my 686...just my 2 cents

 

[nebmike]

I just got a 4" 627 Pro-Series... hard to go wrong with an 8-round .357mag (which is part of the reason for the increased $$$), especially if its more for home defense rather than carry use. Its only a little over one ounce heavier than the 6-shot 4" 686. Balances beautifully, and will eat all of the full power .357's you want to feed it.

You've several options for loading -- either individual rounds, an 8-shot moonclip, an 8-shot speed loader or an 8-shot QuickStrip. Each has their own advantages and disadvantages, but I love the flexibility.

I really like it so far!

 

[Snowbandit]

For your stated intended use I have to also suggest the 686. You should be able to find a nice used one for around $500.

 

[Smith357]

I'd suggest you try them all at a local range/rental place and see which ones are right for you. It's a very individual choice. My preferences run to the large frame revolvers, but that's just me (and one or two other forum folks)....

+1

Folks are going to recommend what they like, I personally like the way a K or even L frame balance in my hand so I would point you towards th 66 or 686. Some folks like them bigger some folks like them smaller, only you can tell what you like. Of the ones you list only the 627 is rare on the used market in these parts. The others seem to be plentiful with the 686 being the most prevalent.

The extra money for the 627 is due to the extra work done to the 627. The top strap is checkered, and being a large N frame there is more material hence more cost.

If you plan on shooting a lot of full power .357 loads using light bullets then the 686 or 627 is the way to go. They can handle a steady diet any factory load you can feed them. There have been some issues with K frame .357s and the 125 grain bullets. But if you are planing to shoot mostly .38 with a bit of .357 then it's not really an issue. The small J frame is going to sting your hand in .357 and some +P .38.

 

[ScottJ]

With your critera I'd be shopping used 686's.

Don't worry so much about the lore of the 66's and magnums. I've seen several examples that have fired hundreds with no issues.

 

[Acorn1754]

If I were you I would get a 686-4 or earlier. I too agree that you should be able to pick one up used for $450-500 in good to very good condition. Or if you don't mind a blued revolver, hard to go wrong with a Model 27 either! Most of all, have fun and get out and shoot it, you'll never wear either of them out!

 

[nebmike]

The extra money for the 627 is due to the extra work done to the 627. The top strap is checkered, and being a large N frame there is more material hence more cost.

Just a point of clarification -- on my brand new 627-5 Pro-Series, the top strap isn't checkered. That might be a feature on the 5" Performance Center model or maybe some of the older 627 Pro's.

FWIW

 

[corpulent]

Thanks for the quick replies everyone. I have been leaning towards a 686 based on size, looks, and value, and it still seems to be the front runner. Lot of happy owners from what I've read here, too.

If I can find one in the $500 range like some of you have mentioned, I don't think I would hesitate to get it.

Anyone have any horror stories about any of the aforementioned models? I always like to hear the bad news about stuff before I hear the praise.

 

[M28]

Best bang for the buck would seem to be the 686; nice medium frame and medium price.

You said it yourself.

Brian~

 

[Acorn1754]

Anyone have any horror stories about any of the aforementioned models? I always like to hear the bad news about stuff before I hear the praise.

I know there was a recall on the 686 no dash and 686-1 and those that have been modified are stamped with an M. But I own a unmodified 686 (picked it up almost new condition, with box and papers for a really good price) and never had a problem with it, it's a fantastic shooter! But anyway, it was recalled because the firing pin bushing was made too wide in diameter and one company's primers (can't remember which one) and with heavy magnum loads, a certain brand of primers could potentially be pushed into the firing pin bushing, which would lock the gun up. But again, I've never had a problem and I know I'm not the only one who has absolutely no reservations about shooting it that way.

I know with the model 66, I've read multiple times that with bullets lighter than 135 or 140 grains, heavy 357 mag loads could be a problem, but then again, I've never seen anyone post pictures of how it damages the forcing cone. Nevermind, I just won the bid off of gunbroker and have a used 66-2 2.5" barrel one on it's way to my FFL!

I don't have any experiences with any of the others, but I'd love to get my hands on a 627! Just those are a little rich for me.

 

[cantpickone]

I would buy a pre lock 686. They are for sale all the time.

 

[corpulent]

I had a perfect 66-2 4" that I should have never sold. I replaced it with a mint 686-3. I've since sold a 686 snubbie and a 64-3

If I were you I would get a 686-4 or earlier.

-- on my brand new 627-5

I know there was a recall on the 686 no dash and 686-1.. and have a used 66-2 2.5" barrel one on it's way to my FFL!

What is the # after the dash referring to? 686-1, 686-3, 686-4.

Thanks

 

[exSun]

What is the # after the dash referring to? 686-1, 686-3, 686-4.

Thanks

The "dash number" represents variations of the basic model. Some dash number changes are minor, others are more significant, such as the change in the Model 60 when it went from .38 Special to .357 Magnum.

 

[nebmike]

The "dash number" represents variations of the basic model. Some dash number changes are minor, others are more significant, such as the change in the Model 60 when it went from .38 Special to .357 Magnum.

Just out of curiosity -- is there any reference available online that describes the changes for each dash and model?