Help me pick a wheelgun

[corpulent]

Found this on these forums:
The M686 started production in 1980. In 1986 the M686-1 had the radius stud package and floating hand. In 1987 S&W recalled both these models to change the hammer nose bushing and associated parts. If the modification has been done there should be a M stamped over Mod686 on the frame.
The M686-2 started in 1987 with the same hammer nose bushing change.
The M686-3 started in 1988 with a new yoke retention system.
And the M686-4 started in 1993 with a changed rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame (for scope mount,I think), change extractor and introduce Hogue grips.
The 686-4 is also available with the 7-shot cylinder. (The first I think).
The 686-5 marks the change to the flat hammer nose and new CNC frame, so the 686-4 is the last of the hammer mounted firing pin on the old familiar frame.

 

[Acorn1754]

Just out of curiosity -- is there any reference available online that describes the changes for each dash and model?

If you do a search for "Smith & Wesson # (model #) model changes" and you'll quickily find a guide that will tell you. For instance, I found this on the model 66 in just a minute of searching...

66 (1970): Stamping of each model.
66-1 (1977): Changed the gas ring from the yoke to the cylinder.
66-2 (1982): Eliminated pinned and recessed, slightly lengthened cylinder.
66-3 (1986): New yoke retention system/radius stud package/hammer nose bushing/floating hand.
66-4 (1994): Change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, introduce Hogue grips, change extractor.
66-5 (1998): Change in frame design: eliminate cylinder stop stud/eliminate serrated tangs/change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin/change internal lockwork.
66-6 (2002): Introduced internal lock.
66-7 (?): Two piece barrel and internal lock.

 

[jbouwens]

Another vote for a 686.
Pros:
can shoot almost anything you can jam into the cylinders
easy to clean
easy to see if it is dirty
can polish it to make it look like a mirror
handles recoil nicely (weight)
no forcing cone cracking problems
easy to get
easy to get parts for
puts a smile on your face while shooting



Cons:
..................................................................
..................................................................
..................................................................
.................................................... What? Oh, ah, I am still thing of one.........................................................

 

[nebmike]

If you do a search for "Smith & Wesson # (model #) model changes" and you'll quickily find a guide that will tell you.

I tried that on the 627 -- couldnt find anything which was why I asked. Didnt know if there was an 'official' list someplace(?).

 

[corpulent]

Smith & Wesson model changes

Only a partial list, though

 

[nebmike]

Smith & Wesson model changes

Only a partial list, though

Yup - saw that one too... no 627 dash info (unless I'm blind).

Thanks though!

 

[Acorn1754]

I found this on thehighroad.org forum...

Dash numbers usually refer to engineering changes. They can also refer to different calibers, barrel lengths or barrel contours.
So the 627-1 had a new rear sight leaf and the top strap was drilled and taped for a scope mount.
The 627-2 was a new frame design with the frame mounted firing pin and an 8 shot cylinder.
The 627-3 had a new frame design and metal injection molded hammer and trigger.
The 627-4 introduced the internal lock and .38 Super caliber.
the 627-5 introduced the internal lock in .357 magnum caliber.

Interestingly, the first offering of the 627-5 did come with a five inch barrel from the S&W Performance Center, at a premium price.

 

[J.P.60]

Personally, I would just go with the 22-4 Thunder Ranch .45acp,
the 625 .45acp, or the Night Guard snub .45acp all with moonclips and not worry about so many choices in .357.

 

[nebmike]

I found this on thehighroad.org forum...

Thanks! I appreciate it.

 

[C.S.63]

Ill jump on the band wagon and suggest a 686 also
If you want fixed sights try and find a 681
carl

 

[jackge]

I recently went through the same search as the OP and I finally settled on a 686-6 SS with a 2.5" barrel. Today I ordered a set of C.T. laser grips for her and that should make a nice package.

 

[mtime7]

I say " Don't get hung up on one model or dash #" you would be well served with 13,19,27,28,65,66,681,686, or any of the countless others.. In my neck of the woods,It is a matter of what comes available at a reasonable price that matters,

 

[youngda9]

I'm really interested in getting a S&W .357/.38...I'd like, ideally, a 4" barrel and nickel/stainless rather that blued. The gun would be for the collection/home defense/target practice, and not likely for "carry."

For what you describe, you don't need a PRO series, you don't need a snubby, and you don't need anything with a small J or K frame.

You need a L-Frame Smith 686 4". You can find one EASILY on gunbroker.com for $475-$500, lightly used. Just watch the auctions and you'll get the greatest combat revolver ever made. Perfect for what you described. Not too large, large-enough to absorb recoil. Great for the range. Stainless, and holds its resale value. 6 or 7 shot available. It can handle the weakest 38spl all the way up to the hottest .357 magnum for eternity.

You can PM me to thank me after you get one, it's the right thing to do

Best of luck.

 

[Smith357]

Just a point of clarification -- on my brand new 627-5 Pro-Series, the top strap isn't checkered. That might be a feature on the 5" Performance Center model or maybe some of the older 627 Pro's.

FWIW

Thanks, I'm not up on the new models. If the top strap is not checkered shouldn't it be 628?

 

[one eye joe]

Get yourself a nice used 686, up to a dash 4, in a 4'' barrel. My personal favorite is the 686+ Mountain Gun.....