Help please- I feel dumb.

[jdub3]

So curiosity got the best of me, and I decided to take off the side-plate of my Model 36. I know nothing about revolvers and wanted to see how this thing works (I also feel better about my guns knowing how they function and wanted to make sure there was no damage inside, b/c I recently bought this used.)

Well first, as soon as I poppped of the side plate the hammer block fell out. Luckily, I found a schematic online and figured out the proper positioning for reassembly (unless this is wrong). I then cleaned and lubed the internals.

Now the problem- I can't seem to get the side plate back on. I don't think it was ever dissassembled in the past 45 years of its life and the front part of the plate doesn't want to fit. Nothing appears broke or damaged and I want to keep it that way. Are there any tricks or suggestions you guys can offer?





Thanks in advance from the newb!

 

[Bullseye Smith]

Don't force it on, take the hammer block and put it on the stud with the block pushed up to the bottom of the slot. Now try and put it on. Plus make sure the block end is inbetween the frame and hammer.

 

[another41]

Don't force. Read some and ask questions before re-attaching. I did this years ago. I forget if I used hand pressure or there is a technique of tapping on butt with a non metallic tool and the plate drops down.

 

[jdub3]

Don't force it on, take the hammer block and put it on the stud with the block pushed up to the bottom of the slot. Now try and put it on. Plus make sure the block end is inbetween the frame and hammer.

Ok. Not going to force it. At worst I will take it into the shop tomorrow with my tail between my legs.

So the hammer block should be the as high up as possible?

It doesn't feel like the hammer block is the problem. Feels like the side-plate doesn't want to fit in at the top of the trigger-guard. I took the hammer block out just to make sure and the side-plate doesn't want to fit even with the hammer-block out of the equation.

Should probably add- the side plate was a bear to get out in the first place. Used hard-plastic wedge to remove it originally (at the rear of the side-plate where it meets the grip. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[ken158]

Put the hammer block on the rebound slide pin, slide it up in front of the hammer, start the side plate at the bottom of the gun and sneak it upward with the block in the slot, get the top of the sideplate even and gently let it down. If all looks good, tap it around the seam lightly with something wood or plastic. Now - when you have this put back together, take the motor apart in your car and see if it looks OK to ya!

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Check out the sticky faq's above.
I have a picture and instructions on how the block is located when you put it back on.

 

[Bert Man]

help please-I feel dumb

JDUB3, I see where you said that you pried on the rear of the sideplate with a wedge and plate was a bear to remove. Unfortunately that is about the worst way possible to remove a sideplate. It's fit to very close tolerances and is easily damaged, usually at the forward end when pried. It is possible that you may have exerted enough prying force to damage (warp) the sideplate and that is why the forward edge won't seat down flush with the frame even without the transfere bar. If so it is a S&W Service Center-only repair and is not inexpensive. Hopefully that may not be the case. I can't see enough detail in your photos to see if the sideplate is damaged. You might try again to install the plate. Try to start the forward edge first (gently) and check if it is bent upward away from the frame. If not lay the revolver on a hard surface and tap down lightly with a wooden hammer or screwdriver handle around the plate. If still no go may have a problem. Good luck.

 

[Bert Man]

Help please-I feel dumb

JDUB3, don't call yourself dumb. Others will do that enough for you going through life. If you were dumb you wouldn't be excercising the good sense to ask for help to rectify your situation. Unfortunate lapse of good judgement? Maybe. A mistake can be corrected and be a learning experience. Some of the greatest things I have learned in life have come as a result of my most serious mistakes.

If the sideplate still won't install properly shout at me and we'll try something else. Will get back to you soon as I can.

 

[jdub3]

Well guys I got it back on with the use of a rubber mallet and a piece of cloth for extra protection. It is just really tight and I don't think it has been removed since leaving the factory- lots of gunk in there and in the threads of the screws.

Bert- I used a filed down toothbrush handle (I made it for jobs like this) to avoid damage to the finish. I am pretty sure that it would give before damaging the metal.

Ken- LOL. I drive a '66 Series IIA Land Rover and recently installed a new engine (long story- my dad drove it into a pond ) so I have been under the hood a lot lately. Everything looks good there!

Anyways, all's well that ends well. Thanks for all the help guys. Just surprised it was that tight. Are they all made like that? The good news is after cleaning out the gunk and lubing all the parts, she runs even smoother than before. Really amazed with how nice the trigger is.

 

[Bert Man]

Help please I feel dumb

JDUB3, OUTSTANDING! Great to hear all is well with you. M-36 is a great little revolver. I bought one new as LEO rookie in 1973 (36 no dash) and still have it. Carried on and off duty for thirty years still has most of original blue finish and is a SWEET shooter. Little heavy with steel frame but very controllable. Believe me, when you get real comfortable with yours you won't part with it either.

Yes the sideplate to frame fit is that close. Is individually fit to that individual frame and not interchangeable. PLEASE don't ever pry it off again. Big no-no. Luck on your side this time. Proper way to remove is to lay gripframe on hard surface (tabletop, etc.) Remove sideplate screws and put the front screw aside separate from the others. it is fitted to the yoke button. Must go back in same location. tap grip frame with hammer handle or screwdriver until sideplate pops off by itself. NOTE: Don't let it fall off on the floor; that can also warp it. When re-installing sideplate drop in hammer transfer bar first with slot at the bottom and slide on the pin then push it up in front of hammer. It will only go one way so if plate won't go down initially re-check position of transfer bar (hammer block) and try again. On the front bottom of the sideplate you should see a somewhat pointed nub sticking out of the plate. Guide that gently forward then push down lightly on the bottom edge of the sideplate to get it aligned and started. Lay revolver again on hard surface and tap sideplate lightly with the hammer/ screwdriver handle until plate is flush to frame. Replace the screw screw you set aside separately back into the hole at the forward end of sideplate(has round head). The other round head screw goes in the center hole and the flathead one at rear of sideplate. With the above described procedure you will now be able to remove and install the sideplate succesfully in the future. This should only be done as actually necessary as removing and installing constantly doesn't do the precise fit any good. You are now all set. Good luck and good shooting.

 

[acl864]

Now that you can successfully remove and re-install the side plate... buy a Kuhnhausen's S&W Shop Manual. Great little book. I'm not a gunsmith by any stretch but by going through this book step by step I can completely disassemble, clean and reassemble any of my S&W's, as well as dignose and repair problems and make improvements to the trigger pull.
The two hardest things for me are: removing and re-installing the sideplate (I'm always afraid I'm going to bugger something up) and replacing the trigger rebound spring. You've already got one out of two of those under you're belt. It's a good feeling to get you're S&W back together for the first time, even better is when the gun shoots better than it did before.