My wife's gun has basically fallen apart... kinda. This gun sits in her purse 24/7 w/ a loaded magazine and one in the chamber. Well today I went to download the gun so I could load some ball ammo in and me and her could get some range time in, but the gun would not eject the chambered round. My first thought was she was not pulling back hard enough, so I went over and tried to man handle this small gun and had the same luck as her. So I tried to fire the chambered round and and fired and ejected. We loaded the gun, chambered another round and then when we went to shoot it would not chamber the next round, but would eject the spent casing. I thought she was just limp wristing it causing the failure to feed. She went to clear the jam and showed me that it was the gun failure to feed. I took the gun apart and noticed the slide would not fully retract to the rear so that I could apply the slide lock. I eventually muscled it so that I could pull the take down pin and clean the gun. The gun was clean, other than some dirt from sitting in her purse in nothing but a holster. I gave the gun a quick wipe down and added some oil. As I was putting the slide back on I hear a grinding noise and noticed nothing wrong. I released the slide to go forward so that I could put the take down pin back in, but the slide would only go half way. I pushed the slide to the rear again and this small pin fell out. I have no idea what it is, but it came out of that gun. I'm not letting my wife carry a gun that is not whole so she carried my little Kel tec p11 until I can fix this. Any help somebody can offer would be great. I bought the gun 2 years ago and have never had an issue until today.
HELP! S&W Bodyguard falling apart...
- Thread starter tarteman
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rudybunt
Member
I would say call s&w they will fix for free.
Thanks, I will do it tomorrow. Was really just looking to see what the pin is...
KKECK5
Member
Curious what ammo she had in gun at the time. Had similar problem with my sig 238...380. Gun locks up tight with steel casings. made by Tulaammo. Can't fire, eject, or lower hammer. Need to slap top of gun, couple of times, and only then I can eject the live round. All other brass rounds cycle just fine.
Judge_Vedd
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Laser screw is what I was thinking too. I have read that there have been problems with that, but it was supposed to have been fixed.
Sent from The Dark Side
Sent from The Dark Side
Yup that is exactly what it was, it did some damage as it was ripped out. I will upload pictures shortly... hope they can fix my stuff.
I honestly think I will just remove the laser from the BG and avoid these issues...
I bought it not intending to use it anyway.
S&W has a good basic idea with the BG but they have not executed it too well as of yet... what, 3 years now?
not their best effort imo..
I bought it not intending to use it anyway.
S&W has a good basic idea with the BG but they have not executed it too well as of yet... what, 3 years now?
not their best effort imo..
I think it could be very dangerous to fire a gun when you think there is something wrong. You are fortunate you only damaged the gun.
That is definitely the laser screw. This is the most common problem and the worst because it renders the gun inoperable. It happened to mine and I was able to get the screw settled back in enough to take it apart. I put Loctite Blue on the threads and have now had many months and hundreds of rounds through it with no problem. My screw was bent after getting it apart so S&W sent me a new one. I had no other damage so no need for me to send my gun to them. Looks like you have some damage and might want to send it in. They will make it right as this is a design flaw.
I do not believe this problem has anything to do with the ammo you were shooting. The screw comes loose with usage unless Loctite is applied. Just riding around in her purse might have been enough for it to come loose if it was not very tight.
Yup, that's the laser screw, well, was the laser screw. A very well known issue for sure. I knew of this problem from the start and Loc'd mine down when I first brought it home. It has never unscrewed a single degree since with many rounds down range. S&W will fix you up but you'll still need to inspect it when cleaning the weapon after an outing.
I'm surprised they aren't using a thread locker during assembly. (I've heard a rumble of the same question being asked. 
) It's not like the owner is going to be removing the laser for routine maintenance, right?
I'd be willing to pick up a new BG380 the day they offer a variation made without the laser (or the space it occupies).
They apparently had some minor QC issues in the beginning, but I've been told they were quickly aware of the issues and worked hard to address them. That can sometimes (unfortunately) happen when you're trying to push guns out the door trying to meet heavy demand, and it's apparently a lesson that sometimes has to be re-learned when new models are released to an anxious and demanding market.
Of the several guys I know who bought earlier ones and have been carrying/qualifying with them, only one had a broken firing pin. After I replaced it with a new one, it hasn't given him any further problems. (Of course, he doesn't sit around and needlessly dry-fire it, either.)
Let the company take care of the damaged BG380 under warranty.
FWIW, it was the lack of the integral laser that prompted me to choose the LCP over the BG380 ... and the LCP being just enough smaller to be noticeable.
) It's not like the owner is going to be removing the laser for routine maintenance, right?I'd be willing to pick up a new BG380 the day they offer a variation made without the laser (or the space it occupies).
They apparently had some minor QC issues in the beginning, but I've been told they were quickly aware of the issues and worked hard to address them. That can sometimes (unfortunately) happen when you're trying to push guns out the door trying to meet heavy demand, and it's apparently a lesson that sometimes has to be re-learned when new models are released to an anxious and demanding market.
Of the several guys I know who bought earlier ones and have been carrying/qualifying with them, only one had a broken firing pin. After I replaced it with a new one, it hasn't given him any further problems. (Of course, he doesn't sit around and needlessly dry-fire it, either.)
Let the company take care of the damaged BG380 under warranty.
FWIW, it was the lack of the integral laser that prompted me to choose the LCP over the BG380 ... and the LCP being just enough smaller to be noticeable.
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I'm surprised they aren't using a thread locker during assembly. (I've heard a rumble of the same question being asked.
I've read on other threads that S&W now uses thread locker during assembly. Also, removing the laser is required to change the batteries so if you use the laser, it's going to need periodic maintenance.
I'd be willing to pick up a new BG380 the day they offer a variation made without the laser (or the space it occupies).
I would agree with your statement. When my BG gets back from S&W the laser is outta there..
"They apparently had some minor QC issues in the beginning, but I've been told they were quickly aware of the issues and worked hard to address them. That can sometimes (unfortunately) happen when you're trying to push guns out the door trying to meet heavy demand, and it's apparently a lesson that sometimes has to be re-learned when new models are released to an anxious and demanding market."
"Of the several guys I know who bought earlier ones and have been carrying/qualifying with them, only one had a broken firing pin. After I replaced it with a new one, it hasn't given him any further problems. (Of course, he doesn't sit around and needlessly dry-fire it, either.")
Let the company take care of the damaged BG380 under warranty.
I do not however agree with your depiction of "minor" issues.
If they "addressed the issues" then why are firing pins still breaking today. Name me one other pistol currently marketed by a Major gun manufacturer that has this issue.
To not correct this after 3 years of production is unacceptable.
The BG380 has left a verifiable trail of broken firing pins as noted across the gun forums. It is in no way a "minor " issue when you take in to account the Primary role of the BG380.
And to add, if the BG380 should NOT be dry fired then S&W should simply say so which to this day they do not.
Is it really that hard to do?
"A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again."
I have to agree. The absolute least you should have to worry about is a metal component, of any kind, breaking on a modern firearm. It's the cheap sh
t MIM parts is what it is. I've not had any issues with mine but I feel for the ones that have. They should machine a stainless pin and mail the darn things out. I love my BG but this issue should be nonexistent and not a worry.
I have to agree. The absolute least you should have to worry about is a metal component, of any kind, breaking on a modern firearm. It's the cheap sh
I've not had any issues with mine but I feel for the ones that have. They should machine a stainless pin and mail the darn things out. I love my BG but this issue should be nonexistent and not a worry.
Are we even sure all these BG's are being built on the same line? It's like they build 2 different models of the BG.
Model 1 is awesome, eats anything and keeps on ticking.
Then there are the model 2's... very strange...
George9
Member
At least now you know why you could not get the slide back. I think that screw was locking it all up .. Steel case ammo.. I hate it never use it at any saving it's just not worth the damage it can do.. I'm sure the gun will run fine without the laser on it now that YOU FOUND THE ISSUE. I would only use brass cased ammo.. The ammo is not the cause of you issue it was a factory goof up..But steel case ammo can and dose do all kinds of bad things at times.. All depends on the gun. Or Send it back to S&W.. What a shame.. George
