HELP!! Sticky Center Pin...

[mce993]

Hello all,

This is my second post, and I'm hoping someone can give me a little advice on a problem I'm having with my new to me 29-2, s/n N139XXX.

For some reason the center pin (i.e., cylinder latch pin) sticks so bad that I have a difficult time getting the cylinder open with the thumb piece. I've thoroughly lubricated the pin and that didn't seem to help at all. I can push it in with my finger and once I get it moving it seems to move freely. It just takes quite a bit of force to break it free. The extractor rod is straight so I don't think the pin is bent.

Has anyone else had this problem and is there a solution short of sending it back to S&W for repair, because that is my next move.

Thanks in advance.

 

[dhallz71]

The center pin sometimes gets peened from recoil right at the extractor star. I have taken a jewlers file and straightened up the tip so it will push freely. And it could have dried up lube down inside the tube. Try some Break free first.

 

[nutsforsmiths]

I had a similar problem with my Model 1950 Army and I took apart the cylinder and found it was really dirty inside, after 60 years of grease and other build-up. I cleaned that out really well and then re-oiled it. I also cleaned the front pin, the one that holds the ejector rod under the barrel. it to was sticky and after cleaning it out, it also works fine.

I don't know if you have looked at that pin as well.

 

[mce993]

dhallz71,

Thanks for the reply. After I read your post last night I went out to the garage and tried the break free. I gave it a liberal dose and let it soak overnight. When I checked it this evening it seemed better but it still stuck some. I'll give it another squirt or two and let it soak some more.

Thanks again.

 

[mce993]

nutsforsmiths,

Thanks for your reply, too. I've tried to get the extractor rod loose, but am afraid that I'll damage it in the process. So, I just ordered the S&W extractor rod tool from Brownells so I can get the darn thing apart. I'm hoping that like yours, it's just gunked up with years of sludge. I called S&W yesterday and they said it would take them three weeks just to get me an estimate once they receive my revolver! I don't think I can stand having it out of my hands for that long. I hope I can fix it myself.

Can you tell me if the extractor rod has left or right hand threads.

I see you're in western Washington. That's my location, too. Been kind of a wet spring hasn't it?

Regards.

 

[D1911]

I had the same problem on my 4" 29-2. Took it to my local smith and had him break the ejector rod loose and found that the center pin was peened on one end. Put it in the vice, carefully filed the peening off the rod end and finished it off with some 1000 grit sandpaper. Worked like a charm!

 

[mce993]

Thanks, D1911. Maybe that will do the trick for me too. Now I just have to wait for my extractor rod tool to get here.

 

[nutsforsmiths]

It is right hand threads.

 

[Thunderball]

I thought all the modern revolver extractor rods had left hand threads??

 

[tbury]

I thought all the modern revolver extractor rods had left hand threads??

I have 2 29-2s one has a left hand thread and one has a right hand thread. One has and "S" serial number and one has "N". So -2s can have either. My "N" has S/N N630xxx. Be aware that new center pins from Brownells or Numrich will probably be a little long and need to be "fitted". If the cylinder with the new center pin is really hard to close, the center pin needs to be shortened.

 

[SharpshooterOPD]

I had this problem with 629. It was most apparent after the gun had set unused for an extended period, or when I had it out in the cold. When I finally disassembled it, I found that years of gun oil had congealed into a laquer-like substance that if effect had glued the center pin in place. Some solvent and a little scrubbing solved the problem.

HRF

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

It is right hand threads.

Based on his SN N139xxx, it is LH by about 14 years, according to S&N.

 

[Alk8944]

I have 2 29-2s one has a left hand thread and one has a right hand thread. One has and "S" serial number and one has "N". So -2s can have either. My "N" has S/N N630xxx. Be aware that new center pins from Brownells or Numrich will probably be a little long and need to be "fitted". If the cylinder with the new center pin is really hard to close, the center pin needs to be shortened.

The change to left-hand threads occurred in 1960 with the -1 which designates that change. If you have a -2 with right-hand threads it is because someone at some time has changed the extractor & extractor rod, or more likely the entire cylinder assembly, for one from a 29 no-dash gun.

mce993, your gun was manufactured in 1973 or 1974. You don't need the extractor rod tool, just remove the cylinder from the gun, fold a piece of heavy leather around the extractor rod and clamp it in your vise. You then turn the cylinder to the right like you were tightening a right-handed screw. To help support the extractor and protect the extractor pins and the gib in the cylinder at least put 3 fired cases in alternating charge holes before turning too hard.

If you really are nervous about the thread direction simply look at he knurling on the rod. If the knurling goes back to the smooth part with no gap it is right-handed (it won't be), and if left handed there will be a smooth un-knurled groove between the knurling and the smooth part of the rod. S&W puts that smooth band behind the knurling specifically to identify the thread type, it really means something.

Once apart simply clean the parts thoroughly, chances are that the problem will be no more than old varnished oil. While the cylinder is out try moving the bolt (the part thr thumbpiece is attached to) by pulling the thumbpiece back and letting it move forward. There is a good chance the problem is internal to the frame and has nothing to do with the cylinder and center pin, but for the same reason. The inside of the extractor rod can be the most difficult area to clean, but a small Q-Tip and some Acetone (fingernail polish remover) will take care of the small hole. This is particularly important as the close clearances and long area between the center pin and extractor rod is likely to be where the problem is.

 

[DCWilson]

Good advice all around so far, but I want to report one more anecdote. I bought a very clean long-tube 57 that had a stiff cylinder release. Turned out it was the front end of the center pin that was peened, so much so that after getting the ejector rod out of the cylinder I could not even pull the center pin back through the rod. I had to push the rod out as far as it would go against the internal spring strength, then stone off the expanded portion of the pin without scratching up the front of the ejector rod. When I got a little off, I could pull the pin back out, which allowed me to finish restoring the proper diameter. I reassembled and relubed the cylinder assembly, and it has been right as rain since.

 

[mce993]

IT'S FIXED - 29-2 Sticky Center Pin

DCWilson wins the prize. The front end of my center pin was peened over and catching inside the ejector tube to the point where I couldn't even pull it out of the tube once the whole thing was apart. With a little file work it's as good as the day it left the factory. No more sticky center pin and the cylinder release feels like butter!

And, by the way, my 29-2 has the left hand threaded ejector rod.

Thanks for the information and help everyone. You all saved me the pain of an unbearably long separation from my revolver had I sent it to the factory for repair.

Regards...