Help with a 27-2
- Thread starter ME94
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Is it possible you do not have the yoke pushed all the way back into the frame? One of the pictures shows a gap that should not be there. Remove the yoke screw and start over. My answer assumes you did not attempt to take apart the cylinder.
No I did not attempt to take aprt the cylinder. When I push the yoke in and try to close the cylinder, the yoke pushes out a bit . Also when I put the screw in with the yoke open, it is very tight and will not close
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silvercobra
Member
Don't put the screw in until you put the yoke all the way in and close the cylinder
That is not totally unusual. I have it happen several times. Sometimes some lint or debris gets into somewhere and interfers just enough to be a pest!! Take it apart and brush under the extractor to get anything out from under it, take the yoke out of the cylinder and make sure it is clean on the barrel and end, and re insert and try again. Usually works then. If not, work the yoke barrel in and out several times to loosen anything that is in the cylinder that you can't reach. That has always worked for me. I have never had to take the center pin out.....yet!
Hair Trigger
US Veteran
When you removed the cylinder, did you also remove the side plate? If so, did you replace the side plate screws in the same locations as they came from? The front side plate screw that holds the yoke in place is a fitted screw, even though it may look like the other "domed" screw.
I'd try backing the retention screw out and see if the yoke seats fully, hold it in the seated position (but not latched closed) and then tighten the retention screw while you test the yoke for freedom of movement. If yoke movement is not free and easy, with no end play, try reversing the two side plate screws (the third flat headed one should stay where it is under the grip half).
I'd try backing the retention screw out and see if the yoke seats fully, hold it in the seated position (but not latched closed) and then tighten the retention screw while you test the yoke for freedom of movement. If yoke movement is not free and easy, with no end play, try reversing the two side plate screws (the third flat headed one should stay where it is under the grip half).
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You did not say you removed the sideplate, but if you did, you have put the screws in the wrong holes. The flat head screw goes under the grip. The sideplate screw goes in the middle hole. The fitted yoke screw goes in the front hole. Without a micrometer it is exceedingly difficult to tell the plate screw from the yoke screw. That is why you keep them separate when removed.
Did you take out the mechanism? If so, make sure you did not allow the stud of the hand to override the hidden spring that keeps forward pressure on the hand. That is a common mistake and will result in the cylinder failing to advance only some of the time, based most on gravity and chance.
Your nice 27-2 needs a "once over" by a competent gunsmith at this point, lest you lose confidence in her.
Be very careful about relying on "you tube" videos. I saw one the other day where a moron pretending to be an expert PRIED off a sideplate.
Did you take out the mechanism? If so, make sure you did not allow the stud of the hand to override the hidden spring that keeps forward pressure on the hand. That is a common mistake and will result in the cylinder failing to advance only some of the time, based most on gravity and chance.
Your nice 27-2 needs a "once over" by a competent gunsmith at this point, lest you lose confidence in her.
Be very careful about relying on "you tube" videos. I saw one the other day where a moron pretending to be an expert PRIED off a sideplate.
I bought the gun from a gun smith, which why it has the best feeling trigger. So with a lot of humility, I took the gun back to him, and to take a lot jokes.. one was Marines should only be allowed to own baseball bats, because they could not brake them. He had the cylinder back in a 30 seconds.
