Help with ID on this, appears to be unfired...no paperwork with it, 27877 Ser# barrel 3 3/8" 22LR

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Anyone know what the "P" behind the yoke stands for? It's where the newer model #s would be.
 
25619 on your gun is what we call an assembly number. The same number should be on the frame, on the yoke and behind the side plate. It was to keep the parts together during the manufacturing process. I think the P above the assembly number and the 3 below the assembly number are what we call fitters marks. Think most guns have them and they don't have a meaning that I know of.
Here is the best picture I can get of the same area on my gun. 8257 is the assembly number. I have a not well struck C where you have a P. Below the assembly number I have a 7 and an even smaller 3. Think these are all fitters marks.

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Thank to everyone for their info...funny the outfit that I bought the gun from described it as a "Model P" lol
 
Not looking to sell it as it's a cool gun, but am curious if anyone has a range of how many Benjamins it would be worth...I got it at auction
 
Nice Kit Gun, but something not quite right about that gun. It has almost certainly been fired due to the pronounced turn line. Have you checked the serial number stamped inside the right stock as it appears they do not fit quite right as shown below. Also, is the blue turning to brown undertones for some reason?

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Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson 5th Edition says Excellent gun $1400. That would be for a Model 1953 or the Model 1955 Airweight.
The way to tell which gun you have. The Model 1953 has a cylinder length of 1.25" and weighs 22 1/2 ounces. The Model 1955 Airweight has a cylinder length of 1.44" and weighs 14 1/4 ounces. The reason for the difference in cylinder length is that the Model 1953 is an I frame and the Model 1955 is a J frame.

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Kind of a side comment faintly connected...Had a similar revolver in .22 RF with 3.5" barrel. Very light, marked "Mod.43" and carried the S/N 25900. Handled nicely and was carried many miles in the Arizona desert. It had the old flat latch for the cylinder release. Unfortunately, it got away when I was offered way too much money when it was needed.
 
Don't know about its status as unfired or not as was an auction purchase without much info...they didn't even list the right model, it is extremely clean though
 
To me something doesn't look right with the finish? But I am not expert and hard to tell without actually seeing it.
 
Looks like that "gloss black" anodizing vs. "blue/gray black" of classic bluing. Proportions seem right for a J frame as well.

Old pre-ZIP code Tyler T-Grip is nice. Never seen a S&W with a Tyler that hadn't been shot much!
 
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