Help with identification

[k22fan]

Perhaps you gentlemen were imbibing socially when you should have been studying old Frankenstein movies. I'm wondering if you are attributing the torso to the wrong grave yard.

Based on the rarity of those revolvers it is unlikely the torso was a post office or Coast Guard .22. The short action hammer would not function in an Outdoorsman. In the OP's 9:00pm reply #14 the top of the frame looks bead blasted or parkerized. The frame's cylinder stop stud pin was filed to provide clearance for a recessed cylinder to swing open. Could this be a short action M&P converted to rim fire? I'd like to see pictures of the recoil shield and hammer slot showing both ends of the firing pin.

If this is a converted M&P the only secondary serial number that could even possibly be original would be on the yoke. The OP needs to check for a relocated serial number on the sides of the gripframe. If there isn't one, in addition to considering the federal laws the OP needs to take a hard look at his local laws.

 

[Hondo44]

"Soft-fitting" number used for the serial number

jester,

It just occurred to me that it's very possible that whoever modified/refinished your gun assumed that the #178xx you found in the yoke is your gun's serial #. Because S&W started stamping the serial # in that location after the 1950's, many people, especially younger gun store clerks assume on older guns that it is the serial #. Many S&W guns have been registered using that #!
That #178XX should be located in three locations on your gun:

1. on the yoke arm and seen when opened,
2. on the inside of the sideplate (must be removed to see the #), and
3. on the frame opposite the location of the # on the yoke arm on pre model revolvers.

k22fan's suggestion below is a good one. To confirm which frame you have, you should check for a serial # on the back side of the yoke to verify if it matches the #633XXX on your cylinder.

Look for it on the rear facing surface of the yoke arm with cyl swung open by looking thru one chamber with a flashlight. If you know how, you can pull the cyl off to see it but that's not necessary if you use a good light aimed at the space between the yoke and front of the cyl.

If the numbers match, you can be 99% certain the cyl and frame are original to each other and came from a pre war K22 Outdoorsman .22 revolver from the early 1930's as most posters have suggested. If they don't match, it's even more of a Frankengun and k22fan's M&P possibility could very well be the case.

If this is a converted M&P the only secondary serial number that could even possibly be original would be on the yoke. The OP needs to check for a relocated serial number on the sides of the gripframe.

Please let us know what you find!

P.S. Could we also see a photo of the hammer cocked and the open yoke. Thx.

 

[k22fan]

Hondo44,

This quote from the OP appears to eliminate connecting the yoke serial number to the frame by matching the frame and yoke assembly numbers.

there is no serial number on the grip the only number I can find on the gun is when I open the cylinder and as I said before it is 178xx

 

[Hondo44]

Hondo44,

This quote from the OP appears to eliminate connecting the yoke serial number to the frame by matching the frame and yoke assembly numbers.

k22fan,

I have to respectfully disagree.

That assumes he only saw one assembly # in the yoke. That may be a valid assumption but I won't assume it when I can ask instead.
And we don't know if he saw the assembly # on the yoke or on the frame because he just said "when I open the cyl".

If the assembly # is on the yoke and not the frame, the assembly # on the inside of the sideplate will link the yoke and cyl serial # to the frame; if they exist of course.

My reference to the assembly # on the grip frame was informational only in that it is sometimes an alternate location.

Also he said there were no other numbers on the gun and when another poster suggested he check the cyl/star, he found the serial #. I do presume the yoke serial number is there as well because new posters never seem to find that one on their own.

Hope that helps,

 

[handejector]

The important fact is that if you do have the #178XX stamped on your frame in one of the two locations mentioned in #3 above your gun is legal. Because for all intents and purposes, that is now your serial #! And you should use that # if you register or sell the gun.

C'mon, now. That is REALLY bad advice to be giving someone. A gun that has assembly numbers is not suddenly legal if the serial number has been removed from the frame! It doesn't just change to the new number!
Would a Luger with the number removed from the frame, barrel, and slide suddenly be legal because it has the last two digits on small parts and can now "adopt" a new but shorter serial number? Every hundred numbers, those last two are repeated, so I guess I could have a 50 Luger set, all being number 33! After that, I could start looking for 50 to build a set of 34s.
Your suggestion implies that S&Ws with the butt number removed are no longer a problem- simply adopt the assembly number as a serial number. Do you really think that will fly in court?
People usually take advice given here as authoritative, so it is incumbent upon us to make it good advice.

My reference to the assembly # on the grip frame was informational only in that it is sometimes an alternate location.

I never saw the assembly number moved to the grip frame till they started putting model numbers in the yoke and simply needed the room. I've never seen it there on a 5 screw gun.

 

[Hondo44]

C'mon, now. That is REALLY bad advice to be giving someone. A gun that has assembly numbers is not suddenly legal if the serial number has been removed from the frame! It doesn't just change to the new number!
Would a Luger with the number removed from the frame, barrel, and slide suddenly be legal because it has the last two digits on small parts and can now "adopt" a new but shorter serial number? Every hundred numbers, those last two are repeated, so I guess I could have a 50 Luger set, all being number 33! After that, I could start looking for 50 to build a set of 34s.
Your suggestion implies that S&Ws with the butt number removed are no longer a problem- simply adopt the assembly number as a serial number. Do you really think that will fly in court?
People usually take advice given here as authoritative, so it is incumbent upon us to make it good advice.

Lee,
Thank you for that wakeup call. I retract that as erroneous information and opinion.

I never saw the assembly number moved to the grip frame till they started putting model numbers in the yoke and simply needed the room. I've never seen it there on a 5 screw gun.

True I was over generalizing again. I don't imbibe, but I do stay up too late which is probably apparent. And that is the last time I'll ever try David's melted shoe polish concoction!