Brett248Vista
Member
Are you thinking what I'm thinking Pinky????
Hmmmmmmm :)
- Thread starter Brett248Vista
- Start date
Are you thinking what I'm thinking Pinky????
shooboy
US Veteran
If you are thinking that I'd like to get my barrel nut off so I can see if I can somehow fit this handguard, then yes, I know what you are thinking !!! Any timeframe on when your barrel vise jaws are coming in ? I can't wait any longer, can you just wrap the barrel with a piece of leather and put it in the vise ? The suspense is freakin' killin' me.... Shoo
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
Randy,
Not sure on the time frame. Jody said he had stuff going out this week, he actually had to machine up some vice jaws he was out of stock.
I will wait because I don't want to take a chance and cause more damage by not using the right tools.
Rustspot,
The Sight post is attached to the hand guard end cap via a screw where the gas tube would go. The end cap fits snugly onto the hand guards.
Not sure on the time frame. Jody said he had stuff going out this week, he actually had to machine up some vice jaws he was out of stock.
I will wait because I don't want to take a chance and cause more damage by not using the right tools.
Rustspot,
The Sight post is attached to the hand guard end cap via a screw where the gas tube would go. The end cap fits snugly onto the hand guards.
Interesting... my next question is what did it cost? The clamp on FSBs I've seen aren't what I'd call cheap.
Maybe it would be a good idea to watch the classified ads on a few airsoft boards and snag a complete front end for a few bucks, take the delta ring, end cap, and block from it, mount it for a midlength setup, $35 for MOE hand guards...
Total cost with the tacticool22 replacement nut (which I assume the delta ring threads on to) should be under $75.
Maybe it would be a good idea to watch the classified ads on a few airsoft boards and snag a complete front end for a few bucks, take the delta ring, end cap, and block from it, mount it for a midlength setup, $35 for MOE hand guards...
Total cost with the tacticool22 replacement nut (which I assume the delta ring threads on to) should be under $75.
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
The sight post and D-Ring are off my airsoft M4. They are all real steel parts, lord knows what I paid for them, I have a grand total of more than the price of a loaded real AR tied up in my airsoft.
Yep that's an airsoft....
Yep that's an airsoft....
Last edited:
infamous209
Member
Brett you sir are crazy! first off that airsoft is so bad ash, second how does your brain work on all these tinkering levels? and third can i send you my 15 22 so you can tinker on it? fourth and final please for our sake when your done with all that make a video and show us how the hell you did it.
ChattanoogaPhil
Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2009
- Messages
- 15,534
- Reaction score
- 20,624
shooboy
US Veteran
Ya got a hammer... what else do you need?!?
I second that motion !!! Get out the Bernzomatic Torch to soften up that Loctite you used, and commence to beating the beejeezus out of that thing with your Shooboy Hammer !!! Start makin' some sparks mister !!!
john16443
Member
Ya got a hammer... what else do you need?!?
Yup, when all ya got is a hammer, everything looks like a nail
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
Brett,
Looks like I need a 34.5 thou per side shim.
I was actually looking at this last night and if everything lines up like I think it's going to, it looks like I can have the barrel cross drilled for the drift pins. I thought about this and as long as I could go back to "stock" and the pin holes would be covered by the factory hand guard I would do it. Well it looks like that's the case, so I might as well pin the post on.
Gonna have to have my co-worker index the barrel and mill two pin recesses in the barrel for me.
Looks like I need a 34.5 thou per side shim.
I was actually looking at this last night and if everything lines up like I think it's going to, it looks like I can have the barrel cross drilled for the drift pins. I thought about this and as long as I could go back to "stock" and the pin holes would be covered by the factory hand guard I would do it. Well it looks like that's the case, so I might as well pin the post on.
Gonna have to have my co-worker index the barrel and mill two pin recesses in the barrel for me.
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
Jody,
I am happy to report that your package arrived this morning safe and sound! Thanks for all the goodies in the box!
Now onto the bad news... Even WITH the vice jaws I still am unable to break the nut loose.
Right now I have the barrel in the vice sitting vertical and I am soaking the nut with PB Blaster in hopes that it will creep between the threads and break up the blue thread lock. I can see this is going to be a very delicate and drawn out process!
For anyone reading this thread, let my mistake be a lesson to you. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANY THREAD LOCK COMPOUND ON YOUR BARREL NUT!
Yes I meant to have that in bolt, underlined, CAPS! I don't want anyone making this mistake. There is no need to use a thread lock on the barrel nut. Instead what you should do is either purchase a barrel nut tool from Randy or Jody (Shooboy or Tacticool22) so that you have the right tool for the job. And then you should use a white paint market to make a dot on the barrel and the barrel nut when they are tightened down, these are called "witness marks" and they allow you to easily, visually check to see if the barrel nut has loosened. If the paint marks don't line up, it's moved, if they line up, it hasn't moved.
I am happy to report that your package arrived this morning safe and sound! Thanks for all the goodies in the box!
Now onto the bad news... Even WITH the vice jaws I still am unable to break the nut loose.
Right now I have the barrel in the vice sitting vertical and I am soaking the nut with PB Blaster in hopes that it will creep between the threads and break up the blue thread lock. I can see this is going to be a very delicate and drawn out process!
For anyone reading this thread, let my mistake be a lesson to you. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANY THREAD LOCK COMPOUND ON YOUR BARREL NUT!
Yes I meant to have that in bolt, underlined, CAPS! I don't want anyone making this mistake. There is no need to use a thread lock on the barrel nut. Instead what you should do is either purchase a barrel nut tool from Randy or Jody (Shooboy or Tacticool22) so that you have the right tool for the job. And then you should use a white paint market to make a dot on the barrel and the barrel nut when they are tightened down, these are called "witness marks" and they allow you to easily, visually check to see if the barrel nut has loosened. If the paint marks don't line up, it's moved, if they line up, it hasn't moved.
ChattanoogaPhil
Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2009
- Messages
- 15,534
- Reaction score
- 20,624
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
Ok barrel nut is loose and I am ramping up to shoot the video. But before I shot the video I felt the urge to tease everyone first
Thanks to Randy and Jody for the tools that made it possible to get my very STUCK barrel out! And thanks again to Randy for the Shoo Hammer and thanks to Jody for the barrel nut adapter and all the other goodies he sent for me to test out!
Thanks to Randy and Jody for the tools that made it possible to get my very STUCK barrel out! And thanks again to Randy for the Shoo Hammer and thanks to Jody for the barrel nut adapter and all the other goodies he sent for me to test out!
Looks kind of interesting. Not sure if it's my cup of tea or not. Need time for it to soak in and see. Main concern would be shortened sight radius, but that's a non-issue with the optics. If it were me, and I wasn't supporting my habbit on minimum wage, I'd get the tax stamp and SBR it to just in front of the sight post for the extreme tactical carbine look.
Brett, what grip is on the airsoft AR. Looks interesting and is different than the hogues everyone else is running. Assuming it would also work on our guns?
James.
Brett, what grip is on the airsoft AR. Looks interesting and is different than the hogues everyone else is running. Assuming it would also work on our guns?
James.
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
Airsoft grips are specific to Airsoft because the electric motor that drives the gearbox for an Airsoft Electric Gun (AEG) resides in the grip.
The GOOD news is that, anything Airsoft usually has roots in the real world. That grip is an "SPR" sniper grip and it is available for the AR15 from Sierra Precision. It's made out of fiber filled nylon and it's wider than a stock AR grip and it's for "Righty's" as it has a thumb rest molded in.
The GOOD news is that, anything Airsoft usually has roots in the real world. That grip is an "SPR" sniper grip and it is available for the AR15 from Sierra Precision. It's made out of fiber filled nylon and it's wider than a stock AR grip and it's for "Righty's" as it has a thumb rest molded in.
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
I agree Scuds, I wish the Delta ring sat up against the receiver but due to the design that's just not possible. That's as close as it goes!
tacticool22
US Veteran
If the delta ring was any closer to the upper, you could not swing the upper free of the lower. If you look at an AR there is a gap that is almost identical to the gap with the adapter on the 15-22. maybe brett can take a side by side picture of the airsoft and the 15-22 delta ring area.
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
I can't do a side by side. My airsoft M4 is all torn down in pieces. It needs some gearbox work and honestly I'm not in the mood to spend the money on it right now
I agree though, there does have to be some spacing so the receiver halves can separate and rotate. It's not the gap that is as bad as the left over tabs that secure the OEM hand guard. Maybe I will "mod" this upper since I have a new one on order.
I agree though, there does have to be some spacing so the receiver halves can separate and rotate. It's not the gap that is as bad as the left over tabs that secure the OEM hand guard. Maybe I will "mod" this upper since I have a new one on order.
shooboy
US Veteran
Hey Brett, what's the story on finally getting the Loctited barrel nut off ? Did you just have to crank on it or were you able to apply a little heat ? Did the penetrating oil help ??? Inquiring minds want to know. Well, at least I do. Thanks, Shoo
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
Randy,
I had to really tighten down on the barrel with the vice clamps, which I was worried about doing as I didn't want to distort the barrel. I didn't tighten it like to the point where I had to beat on the vice to tighten it, but it was pretty tight.
I soaked the barrel nut with PB Blaster and let it soak sitting vertical in the vice for an hour or so. I went back down and it came loose without much drama.
The inside of the upper is torn up pretty good from the barrel spinning in the breech, but when I slide it down into the receiver it still locks into place so I'm thinking this upper is probably still usable.
I won't ever make that mistake again!
I had to really tighten down on the barrel with the vice clamps, which I was worried about doing as I didn't want to distort the barrel. I didn't tighten it like to the point where I had to beat on the vice to tighten it, but it was pretty tight.
I soaked the barrel nut with PB Blaster and let it soak sitting vertical in the vice for an hour or so. I went back down and it came loose without much drama.
The inside of the upper is torn up pretty good from the barrel spinning in the breech, but when I slide it down into the receiver it still locks into place so I'm thinking this upper is probably still usable.
I won't ever make that mistake again!
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
*update*
One step closer to completion of the M4 front end.
BeltFed machined me some custom spacers (shown below) you can see the one spacer sticking out of my tri rail, I had this made long so it could be turned down to length. The other spacer is between the barrel and the A2 sight post these had to be made because an M4 barrel is .750 diameter and the 15-22's barrel is .670 diameter.
The next step is to drill and tap the back/bottom of the A2 sight post for a allen set screw and we are going to machine a small counter bore in the bottom of the barrel for the set screw to seat into.
This is all completely reversible and you would never know the counter bore existed because the stock hand guard covers it.
With this setup I could also swap out to ANY carbine length non floated rail setup (2 piece or 1 piece).
Thanks again to Brett (BeltFed) for machining the spacers to make this possible!
One step closer to completion of the M4 front end.
BeltFed machined me some custom spacers (shown below) you can see the one spacer sticking out of my tri rail, I had this made long so it could be turned down to length. The other spacer is between the barrel and the A2 sight post these had to be made because an M4 barrel is .750 diameter and the 15-22's barrel is .670 diameter.
The next step is to drill and tap the back/bottom of the A2 sight post for a allen set screw and we are going to machine a small counter bore in the bottom of the barrel for the set screw to seat into.
This is all completely reversible and you would never know the counter bore existed because the stock hand guard covers it.
With this setup I could also swap out to ANY carbine length non floated rail setup (2 piece or 1 piece).
Thanks again to Brett (BeltFed) for machining the spacers to make this possible!
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
Brett,
Does the alum black work pretty well? I've never used stuff for alum just steel.
I will probably do that once this is all finished up, and you are correct, you will never know they are in there!
This project is coming together nicely!
Does the alum black work pretty well? I've never used stuff for alum just steel.
I will probably do that once this is all finished up, and you are correct, you will never know they are in there!
This project is coming together nicely!
Brett,
Does the alum black work pretty well? I've never used stuff for alum just steel.
I will probably do that once this is all finished up, and you are correct, you will never know they are in there!
This project is coming together nicely!
it depends on the type of aluminum.. im pretty sure those shims are one of the higher grade t6 dont recall actual alloy number.. but should black up nicely.. if id thought id blasted them so they would have taken it better... or once you get all the final size send them back and ill copy them out of 4140 and park them
VooDuuChild
Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2010
- Messages
- 225
- Reaction score
- 1
While not my cup of tea (looks like a modded Colt), but that is by and large the most original M&P 15-22 I've seen! Way to go and makin it your own! Nicely done.
OP
Brett248Vista
Member
Yeah the only difference is, this one is using real AR parts
LOL!
I have all sorts of parts so I can (and have) changed my look up, many times. And thanks to skilled craftsmen like Brett, Randy and Jody they have helped make a lot of this, much easier!
Brett,
I think the alumablack will be fine. I will post up more photos when I am complete. It's going to be a few weeks, I don't want to pester my co-worker till after the holidays because I'm going to have to stop over after work to show him what we are doing.
Similar threads
- Locked
