Hoppe's No. 9 Cleaning Process

[Beretta Dawg]

I have been using a CLP type of cleaner for a while now, but I am thinking about using Hoppe's since I have a good supply of it instead of buying more of something else. I am also having a bit of a nostalgia attack and want to have that smell around again. The question I have is this for those of you who are long time Hoppe's users. I have only thought of using the No.9 solvent to clean the barrel, so what do you use to clean other places like the slide rails, the inside of the slide, the back of the slide, etc? Is it safe to use solvent, or do you just wipe it down with oil like the outside surfaces?

Hope this isn't too goofy of a question, just looking for some experienced opinions. Thanks for your help.

 

[824tsv]

I bathe in it, good for all your delicate parts.

It's good and safe for everything. It's all I've been using for 40 years. I don't use it on wood. I use Ren wax for wood.

 

[Joe A.]

I use #9 to clean slides with. I pour a bit on a tooth brush an go to town scrubbing inside of slide. Then I step outside to spray slide down with CRC non-chlorinated brake cleaner. While brake cleaner is drying, I clean barrel and receiver. Then I oil with Hoppe's Elite gun oil. Gun is then squeaky clean and the next clean up is very easy. I've been shooting and cleaning guns for over 50 years and that works best for me. Sure don't seem that long.

 

[chief38]

Not all that familiar with all the new-fangled plastic and Polymer guns (sorry, all mine are all Steel) so I do not know how #9 could affect them. On the older stuff it still works excellent with no damage what so ever.

 

[M E Morrison]

Also, it's not good to soak nickle plated parts in it. Any solvent is designed to remove deposits, and plating is just another deposit.

 

[ma deuce]

I use it on everything, on blued guns, at least. I don't bathe wood in it, but I don't really avoid getting Hoppes on wood, either. I use a toothbrush on slide rails, swabs for hard-to-reach places, never have a problem. The only exception is I tend to use CLP on my ARs and Mini 15, but that's just habit, for some reason.

 

[shawn mccarver]

More recent posts seem to suggest that the old Hoppes No. 9 should not be used on the more recent S&W blue finish. The threads about that topic seem to suggest Hoppes Elite for that purpose.

Personally, I just dip the bristle brush in the bottle, pass the brush through the charge holes (if it is a revolver) and the bore, I then let it stand while wiping off the rest of the fouling with a shop rag. The burned powder and ash on the outside of weapon typically wipes right off. If it doesn't, a toothbrush moistened in Hoppes takes it right off.

I then go back and run a patch through the charge holes and bore, wipe any excess mess off the outside, lube sparingly, and call it a day.

 

[LedFowl]

I've used it the outside of polymer guns with no issues.

 

[Arik]

I use either all CLP or Hopes. I wipe everything else the same regardless of which bramd

 

[Troystat]

Have used it on my S&W's and other firearms for 30 years and never had an issue.

 

[SteveFi]

I use Hoppes to start with then once things are mostly clean I finish up with CLP to get whatever is left & to get a good coat for short-term storage til next time out

 

[Ben_hutcherson]

I've switched over to Ballistol, but Hoppes works great for pretty much everything.

It will also remove mild copper fouling(the discerning nose can probably detect a hint of ammonia in it, along with the overwhelming scent of amyl acetate and petroleum distillates), although is probably not the best for it. I've found that it(and Ballistol for that matter) will typical do a decent job for copper deposits on handguns, although rifles generally call for a more aggressive copper fouling remover like Bench Rest no. 9 or one of the new fangled foaming bore cleaners.

The ability to remove copper is why many folks suggest being careful with it around nickel finishes, as many are over copper. In my experience, with a handful of worn original finish S&Ws, if your S&W has its original finish it's generally nickel directly on steel and Hoppes shouldn't hurt it. Many refinishes do have nickel over copper, so use some caution around those.

 

[kennyb]

I frequently use hoppes on old and new...as was previously mentioned the new blued guns may NOT be a good subject however

 

[BLUEDOT37]

In my experience, with a handful of worn original finish S&Ws, if your S&W has its original finish it's generally nickel directly on steel and Hoppes shouldn't hurt it. Many refinishes do have nickel over copper, so use some caution around those.

My nickel 29-2 has had Hoppes #9 used on it since I bought it new in 1977. However it's done at the factory, it's done right as it's still looking good.

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