Hoppe's

JP@AK

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I think it was Hondo44 who posted recently about Hoppe's #9 being an enemy of nickel plate. I only have one nickel revolver (a Model 19-3) and I have used Hoppe's to clean it (fortunately only a few times because it is a relatively recent acquisition), but I will stop doing so immediately if this is a threat to the finish. Right now the finish is nearly perfect and I certainly don't wish to damage it.
I have been using Hoppe's #9 for more than 50 years - that was Dad's solvent of choice, so I naturally fell into using it too. But nearly all our guns over the years were finished in blue, so we never had a problem.
But if I shouldn't use Hoppe's on my nickel gun, fine. Just tell me what the best alternative is, please.
Thanks!
Jack
 
jack...hoppes is ok on nickel...just dont let it sit on it all night...any ammonia based cleaner (like hoppes) is said to maybe hurt nickel if left sitting on it for an extended period of time...i have used it on nickel with no ill effects
 
jack...hoppes is ok on nickel...just dont let it sit on it all night...any ammonia based cleaner (like hoppes) is said to maybe hurt nickel if left sitting on it for an extended period of time...i have used it on nickel with no ill effects

Same here, see no adverse affects myself, but I could be wrong..
 
I never realized that Hoppe's #9 contained ammonia. Don't have any nickle plated guns. I switched to Ed's Red several years ago. I let my guns set for a day or two wet after shooting them. Makes for easy clean up. I add lanolin to the Ed's Red. No ammonia.
 
I think it was Hondo44 who posted recently about Hoppe's #9 being an enemy of nickel plate. I only have one nickel revolver (a Model 19-3) and I have used Hoppe's to clean it (fortunately only a few times because it is a relatively recent acquisition), but I will stop doing so immediately if this is a threat to the finish. Right now the finish is nearly perfect and I certainly don't wish to damage it.
I have been using Hoppe's #9 for more than 50 years - that was Dad's solvent of choice, so I naturally fell into using it too. But nearly all our guns over the years were finished in blue, so we never had a problem.
But if I shouldn't use Hoppe's on my nickel gun, fine. Just tell me what the best alternative is, please.
Thanks!
Jack

Hi Jack,

I used Hoppe's for at least 40 years myself, it's a great product. Your gun should be alright. Just to explain, a good nickel finish with no serious scratches, slight dings on the sharp edges or minute surface breaks is alright. But like kennyb said it does have ammonia in it. Years ago I read in the American Rifleman that it's almost impossible to get it all out of surface imperfections which is where problems will occur. The ammonia left in a break in the nickel surface will actually lift the nickel plate and eventually cause flaking to start.

As I recall I recommended not using Hoppe's in another thread on an old nickel gun that already had some serious rust spotting in the nickel and therefore most vulnerable to the action of ammonia.

The problem is that even on a good nickel finish, it's almost impossible to detect microscopic leakage thru the plating like at the edges of the muzzle crown and forcing cone where normal where can make the worn nickel susceptible.

For that reason I just don't take the chance and keep Hoppe's off of nickel guns.

There's a lot of great products out there these days. I have settled on M Pro-7 almost exclusively for the following reasons:

1. It is steeped in chemistry, having the highest tech components that far exceed military specs (usually considered the most stringent of all in the industry) by a wider margin than any other products at the time I researched it. That's for extreme hi and low temperatures, lubricity, rust prevention, absorption into the pores of the metal, etc.

2. It has no odor which is great for hunting firearms, but also there's no smell to permeate your gun rugs, shooting bag, pockets, etc. Although I admit I keep an old jar or two of Hoppe's around just for memory sake 'cause nothing takes me back 58 years so fast, being 8 years old and plinking cans with my dad for the 1st time!

3. It comes in every form and size conceivable; thick jell for soaking bores, cylinders and choke tubes, spray, pointed spout, just cleaner, just oil, CLP, copper bore cleaner, etc.

Many people like Kroil and I also use Breakfree, I like their citrus Powder
Blast spray for a quick drying cleaner.

Hope that helps,
 
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IIRC,
The problem with Hoppes is the deterioration of the copper plating used to plate the carbon steel prior to nickel plating...S&W did not copper plate prior to nickel plating....
JIM....................
 
I still use it occasionally, but I find that I mainly use just plain old mineral spirits paint thinner. It seems to work as well as anything. During my time with the USAF, that was all that was used for cleaning M9s and M16s at the range. What they used was called PD-680 (which was just a high flash point mineral spirits) in a circulating parts washer like you would find in about any auto repair shop.
 
Another good reason to use non-toxic cleaners and lubes like SLIP. I have switched to them almost completely. Also not near as hard on your body, the air in your house, etc.
 
I have a couple...well a few nickel Smiths. I use Prolix to clean all the nickel Smiths I have. I have found it to be an excellent product. It is a citrus based cleaner and does a fine job.
 
I have always cleaned my blued revolvers with Hoppes. I have also clean a model 36-1 nickel with Hoppes for years with no problems. Earlier this year i acquired a model 36-2 nickel plated revolver. When i got it i noticed on the outer cylinder a light white hazing of the finish. With my normal routine i cleaned the revolver cylinders and rifling. I dont use hoppes on the outside finish but of course it can get a little messy when cleaning around the forcing cone. As i started to wipe the gun down with a cloth t-shirt during my routine i began to notice more and more green on the t-shirt. I even began to see a light flaking of the finish in a few places. OMG what to do. I knew it was not good and having never had problems with cleaning my other nickel finish i could not imagine. Thanks to a quick google search i realized what the problem may be and it was recommended to use denatured alcohol to neutralize the reaction and help evaporate the hoppes. Luckily i had some on hand. After a good wipe down and oiling i hoped that would stop the progress of damage. Needless to say i wont be using the HOppes on nickel of my 36-1 or 36-2 anymore. Possibly it was a poor finish job or improper care and use by the previous owner but i wont risk it anymore. Take from this experience what you like and i hope it helps. Also i will continue to use Hoppes on all my other firearms so im not trying to trash the brand.
Gl and have fun
Dave
 
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The aroma of Hoppe's #9 always brings back great memories, so much so I always thought they should make a cologne called Hoppes #9, but back to the subject of the post ... I've used it for over 40 years with no ill effects on blue, nickel or stainless. I only use it on badly fouled barrels, mostly back in the day, when most ammo was softer lead. Good lubed cast bullets made in the past 30 years are much cleaner. I still have Hoppes #9 on the shelf and still use it, only, if I have a gun that is terribly fouled or a new acquisition of an older gun, the first cleaning to join the family includes barrel and chamber scrubbing with Hoppes. On guns that I own ... mostly use it on my .22s. The .22' , I find, are more prone to fouling. Sometimes the .22s, if continually fired when hot, start to pick up lead in the groves rapidly and could get incredibly nasty .. fast .. if not cleaned promptly. So, I'm not giving up my Hoppes any time soon, nor will I give up my WD-40, no matter who say what. If something works and has proven itself over time, why change ? I go by the "If it ain't broke" theory, here.
 
I have a prewar nickel n frame with lots of wear. I was ignoring the hoppes warning and I think I saw some significant bubbling around the wear areas. No reason to risk it, switched to kroil though i would like to try a citrus based cleaner. I don't like that I can taste kroil in my mouth after it gets on my hands.
 
I have a prewar nickel n frame with lots of wear. I was ignoring the hoppes warning and I think I saw some significant bubbling around the wear areas. No reason to risk it, switched to kroil though i would like to try a citrus based cleaner. I don't like that I can taste kroil in my mouth after it gets on my hands.

I can highly recommend the Breakfree citrus Powder Blast spray. Great, especially for those crevices where you can't get the scrub brush.

And I too hate tasting the Kroil.
 
I know a fellow who used Hoppe's on his Benelli SuperSport clays gun. It took the nickel right off of some of the internals in the breach area. He must have swabbed the barrel from the muzzle end without dissasembling the shotgun.

I also saw a 2" nickel python ruined (cosmetically) by Hoppe's.
 
Hoppes #9 is good stuff for cleaning, but Ed's Reds is way more better. It cleans really good and leaves a protective coating. I have two nickled revolvers and that I clean with Ed's Red and it has not harmed either of them.
 
If one simply cannot overcome the tradition of using Hoppe's and other old tech dangerous cleaners, there is a pretty simply way to avoid the worst of absorbing it through your skin. I go to the local drug store and buy a good size box of medical gloves. I use them for cleaning and change a few times during a cleaning session so I don't cross contaminate the gun(s). Since I had to have bloodborne pathogen training for work reasons several times, I keep them around for lots of other good uses, too.

You do not want the powdered style gloves, but probably want the hypo-allergenic just in case.
 
"Do not soak nickle plated firearms in No.9. Wipe nickle surfaces dry after cleaning." This admoniton has appeared on the labels of Hoppe's No.9 bottles for many, many years.

"Do not use Hoppe's No.9 Solvent on painted, lacquered, or varnished surfaces unless you wish to remove these finishes." This cautionary statement has been included for even more years than the previous one.

For more than 40 years I have used Hoppe's No.9 to remove fouling from nickle plated (and blued) firearms, have paid heed to these simple warnings, and have never experienced any problems with its use.

TL
 
"Do not soak nickle plated firearms in No.9. Wipe nickle surfaces dry after cleaning." This admoniton has appeared on the labels of Hoppe's No.9 bottles for many, many years.

Well!
I just pulled out several old, glass bottles of Hoppe's that I have had for a long time. Some of them go back at least 30 years, well before the Michaels' period. And yep, there it is, right there on the label. It is even printed on the outside of the little cardboard boxes. Whaduhyaknow?

Thanks for pointing this out, "TripleLock."
Jack
 
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