House wiring question

Jeff423

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I have had some wiring issues in my 7 yr. old house. (I've only been in it for a year). Background: I did electronics in the Navy so I'm better on radar than house wiring.
It started with a couple of switches not working. I pulled them out and found out that whoever had wired them
(clearly not an electrician) had used the spring loaded "push-in" connection instead of the screw down connection. I removed them from the push in connection and screwed them down and they worked fine. Further examination of other switches and outlets revealed that some were connected with the screw terminal, some were connected with wire going the wrong way on on the terminal and the rest were pushed in. I'm currently on a program of fixing one a day.
Finally the question: I had to replace a 3-way switch and bought a Hubbell. It has a "push in" function but the wire is clamped in by the same screw that you can wrap the wire around if you choose. Is this connection secure?
 
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bought a Hubbell. It has a "push in" function but the wire is clamped in by the same screw that you can wrap the wire around if you choose. Is this connection secure?

Those are by far the best connection. Loops are the next best but they can loosen when pushing the device back into the box with 12 ga wire if care is not taken. Backstabs (push in) generate lots of call backs for electricians, usually after the warranty period. So they are money makers. But in fairness, those have improved over the years.
 
If you look on the outlet back it shows how far the wire needs to be striped. I used push in on outlets and switches for as long as I can remember. Never a call back in 40 years. Either way works when done right.
 
If you have any more problems, I would get an electrician to take a look see. No worth taking a chance. Be safe out there!
 
Those are by far the best connection. Loops are the next best but they can loosen when pushing the device back into the box with 12 ga wire if care is not taken. Backstabs (push in) generate lots of call backs for electricians, usually after the warranty period. So they are money makers. But in fairness, those have improved over the years.

Thanks, this seems to describe my situation. This is the first time I have lived in a less than 50 yr. old house and the first time that I have ever seen a "backstab", and the first of this type of failure. All the other connections I've seen have been clockwise loops.
 
My house is 13 years old, and all the switches are of the push in type. No problems here except for one switch recently. I replaced it and used the push in connection. You know it always possible that the switch just went bad and the connection had nothing to do with the problem.
 
Sorry if I wasn't clear in my initial post. When I moved the wires to the screw down terminals on the switch the problem went away - on two different switches.
 
Wiring!

In the past the NEC allowed us to use 15 amp(#14 wire) outlets on 20 amp(#12 wire)circuits! Things have changed! The manufactures now make the outlets to accept the proper sized wire ONLY when using the stab-locks! If you use the outlets with the screws it is possible to install the wrong amperage rated wire in any outlet! The configuration of the three prongs on an outlet denoted the amperage/voltage rating of the device and it must match the amperage rating of the wire used in the circuit the device is installed in! The stab-locks on the cheap outlets is also cheap! A more expensive outlet will have a more secure stab-lock.
Many years experience installing outlets!
jcelect(short for JC Electric)
 
Know your local codes, 14 gauge isn't legal in Montana though it's sold by Home Depot.
 
Aluminum wire for the smaller circuits stopped being used in the mid 70's. It's still used in most areas of the country for services, feeders, and some large circuits such as ranges and dryers. And the smaller aluminum wire is still found in many homes.

Actually jcelect, we still use 15 amp duplex receptacles on 20 amp circuits per the National Electric code. All over the house. NEMA 5-15 type straight blade.

mtgianni. For residencial? I didn't know that, interesting.
 
I am in Montana.
The electrical inspector didn't even really look at my wire, or read any of the insulation. Maybe he could tell at a glance. He just took a quick look at the panel, the outlet box locations saw everything clerly labeled and said you know what your doing, call me when the sheetrock is done and the wall plates are in place. Did I didn't need that many outlets or breakers. I said I hate extension cords in a house and blown breakers. He smiled. He did tell me I should move my one smoke detector outside the bedroom doors in open kitchen living room. Said it would be going off all the time if I did it to code with my layout room and stove . LOL. I did use 12 gauge and 20 amp breakers for all my outlets. Only 14 gauge is to the overhead light circuits and supply to the battery back up smoke detectors. No outlets on light circuits. I used the screw terminals on all the outlets.

When he came back for the final he wasn't here 15 minutes. Looked around flipped a couple 3 way switches signed the paper and left.

My kind of government official.
 
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I have had some wiring issues in my 7 yr. old house. (I've only been in it for a year). Background: I did electronics in the Navy so I'm better on radar than house wiring.
It started with a couple of switches not working. I pulled them out and found out that whoever had wired them
(clearly not an electrician) had used the spring loaded "push-in" connection instead of the screw down connection. I removed them from the push in connection and screwed them down and they worked fine. Further examination of other switches and outlets revealed that some were connected with the screw terminal, some were connected with wire going the wrong way on on the terminal and the rest were pushed in. I'm currently on a program of fixing one a day.
Finally the question: I had to replace a 3-way switch and bought a Hubbell. It has a "push in" function but the wire is clamped in by the same screw that you can wrap the wire around if you choose. Is this connection secure?
I know that in some jurisdiction that you can use the push in connections. We suggest asking a master electrician that works at places like Lowe's or Home Depot to verify local rules. The main issue is first to make sure that you have all copper wire inside your home, since some older homes had aluminum wiring. The next thing is to make sure your wiring is up to code. Remember to use the same or similar receptibles or switches. I have seen to many people install a 20 amp wall outlet on a 15 amp circuit that has multiple outlets. 15 amp outlet = ll Two prongs.
20 amp outlet = Tl 3 prong outlet with one straight and one like a T.
I worked with master electric an only.

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I am not a fan of the push-in wiring style, though I do understand using that method takes less time, and time is money for the electrician.

Some of the switches in my aunt's home in north Texas using the push-in wiring method failed and looked like this:


standard.jpg


Ugly wallpaper ;)

My opinion is that it is not the push-in METHOD, but the flawed DESIGN / MATERIALS of the particular switches used.

The same brand had failures on the duplex receptacles as well.

I also ran across the same failures on the home I purchased in Minnesota - same brand of switches and receptacles.

Both homes were built about the same time, mid 1990's.
 
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My home (built in the late 30's) is wired with tinned copper (insulated 12/3) A young home inspector declared it to be aluminum until I scraped a section at a switch for him. He was amazed, having never seen such a thing.
He'd never been involved in shipbuilding. My house was built by a shipwright.
 
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Strange advice.

First of all let me state my qualifications. My father owned his electrical contractors business, started around 1921. He was teaching me the trade by letting me set switches, and receptacles at age six, 80 years ago. At age 23, I entered the IBEW local 683's apprentice school program, completed it, and became a journeyman electrician. I actively worked at the trade for 40 years. That being said, I've heard some of the most "Gosh Awful", lame excuses made, for a few of the worst, time, and money saving "sins" committed by Electrical suppliers, and Contractors. Topping the list, is using aluminum as a cheap electrical conductor. Then using "stab Lock"switches & receptacles, for the express purpose of rapid installation, in my experience more break downs, and fires have been caused by those two things, than anything else used in our trade. Used, and installed properly, they, will work, but require more time doing so, than conventional copper conductors, and screw lock devices. I wired, our new, all electric home in 1955, 63 years ago, used copper conductors, and screw lock receptacles, used without a single failure. As one person suggested, looking up a "Master Electrician" working at places like Lowes, Wall-Mart, or Home Depot, what would a "Master Electrician" be doing, working at any of those places? or working as a"Electrical Inspector"? In the same token, I bet Jeff423, has never seen aluminum used as an electrical conductor on a Naval ship, nor did we use it in wet locations, such as water treatment, or disposal plants. The only reason for using them is, they are Cheap, and fast. A lot of major mobile home manufactures were put out of business by those two things. Pardon my rant about those things, but, I have many years of first hand experience, with both.

Chubbo
 
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