How bad is it?

[*Klutch*]

I went to the range the other day with some of my new reloads in .357 and .38. The .357's were just fine but the .38's I had 2 squib loads. The first got stuck in the forcing cone and would not allow me to open the cylinder, so I brought it to the gunsmith and he removed it for me no problem. I stopped shooting those. I switched to the other .38's that I made(different powder charge) and shot about 70 of them and it happened again but this time it was half way down the barrel of my 642. So I packed up and went home to remove it and clean my two revolvers that I brought. So in my infinate wisdom I found an automotive punch that fit inside the HP of the stuck round and after about 2 minutes of tapping it it felt like it was moving but it was only going through. So I grabbed a cleaning rod from a shotgun kit and used that to get the round out but ruined the rod in the process but no big deal. The issue is that I also marked up the frame where the cylinder was hitting as I was hitting the punch and also when the punch went through I nicked the barrel. I would like to know how bad you guys think it is and would S&W fix it or should I just buy another one? I have also pulled the rest of the reloads I was shooting and will try to work out some of the reloading bugs I have acquired here are some pics they are not the best but the little black spec is the nick and the frame is just cosmetic but I want it fixed:

 

[Pisgah]

If the speck I think I see is the bore damage, I doubt you've done any real harm there at all. Possible, but not really likely. The outside damage, as you note, is purely cosmetic and could easily be dressed up in a few minutes with files/stones.

Get yourself eighter a near-bore-sized brass rod or hickory dowel for such mishaps in the future.

And this is notmeant as harsh criticism, but go back to ground zero with your reloading, review all your procedures, make sure you are doing it right. Short loads and excessive loads can both be disastrous.

 

[TSQUARED]

Every shooter/reloader needs a brass "squib rod" made from solid brass rod of appropriate diameter for the caliber. Using one will not mar the bore and a few taps on the rod with a gunsmith hammer (also a must have for reloader/shooters) will remove the obstruction or push it back into the case and allow the cylinder to open.

 

[H Richard]

Be sure your brass rod is near to bore size. Using a small (cleaning rod) can actually peen the nose of the stuck bullet, and expand it into the bore making it even more difficult to remove.

I never had a squib until I tried loading 700X in .38's. Very accurate, but the powder doesn't meter well and loading is very inconsistent unless you weigh every one.

 

[n4zov]

I would not worry about the bore damage unless you notice accuracy problems. It really doesn't matter what the bore looks like if the gun is accurate IMHO!

My big concern would be finding the cause of the squib loads you are having. While you did not have any serious problems from squibs, they can cause you some major problems, including gun damage, under the right circumstances.

 

[*Klutch*]

Should I try to fix this? should I polish it or file it down with a stone or jewelers file? Or just leave it alone? There is a small bit that is protruding that I am concerned about but I could just be pissed off with myself for what I have done.