How can you reload for 3 or 4 cents a round?

[Mike SC Hunter]

It all depends if you hit the old rifling at the right spot. If you are crooked and the rifling makes new grooves in the boolit, you'll have leading...

To clarify.... Picked up on my berm....Each time the bullet was remelted, cast, resized into a new bullet.

 

[GypsmJim]

To clarify.... Picked up on my berm....Each time the bullet was remelted, cast, resized into a new bullet.

I knew that. Didn't you see the smiley face?

 

[AJ]

Current cost of reloaded handgun ammo at todays component prices is around 12 bucks a box with cast or lead bullets. Still a lot cheaper for most cartridges but I just purchased 1000 9 mm loaded rounds(cci blazer) for about 275 with shipping and tax so prices are coming down for some. I stockpiled components over the years when they were plentiful so l can load for much much less. It is still worth it even at todays prices for most cartridges(38,357,45,44sp 44mag ect)

Not working with components that cost current prices. Primers cost me $10.00 per K, powder was bought from several different sources, some as low at $3.00 a pound to $22.00 a pound and slugs at $20.00 per 500 to casting my own from wheel weights. So well under the $12.00 quoted.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

The reason you stack components deep when they are cheap is so you can come onto threads like this and brag about how cheap you can reload ammo at prices from 10 years ago.

I'm still loading using primers purchased at $30/1k, cast bullets at $1/lb for wheelweights, powder at $25/lb, and brass that has long paid for itself so doesn't go on the expense list.

$0.03/each is an exaggeration though. The cheapest I've ever been able to reload a cartridge for is about $0.06/each for cast 9mm plinkers and .38spcl wadcutters, and thats with free range brass, $30/1k primers, $1/lb lead, and $25/lb bullseye powder.

Nobody's bragging. Just stating facts from those of us that shoot a lot and plan ahead. None of us old hats paid $1.00/lb for lead. Ours was/is free. So take that out of your equation.

So........In few minutes I'll take the golf cart over to my skeet range. Like I've done for the last couple of warm days and shoot 2 boxes of 12 ga.....Reloaded with my homemade #8's. Which cost me $0.12 (12 cents) each to reload or $ 3.00 a box.
You could even lessen the price by picking up your wads. Washing them and using them again as the old skeet shooters did in the 60's. I don't do that.......Yet.

 

[BC38]

The reason you stack components deep when they are cheap is so you can come onto threads like this and brag about how cheap you can reload ammo at prices from 10 years ago.

LOL, I guess that may be your reason, if you say so. Mine is to make sure that I can shoot as much as I want without being concerned about what it is costing me, and to make sure that ammo and component shortages NEVER keep me from enjoying my hobby.

 

[BC38]

I try to pick out the zinc ones and store those aside. Zinc will stop up the drippers on my shotmaker. Doesn't hurt so much if you are just casting bullets. I have around a ton of old WW's on hand. Push come to shove. I could mine the berm at my range......And I have done that at other shooting ranges.

Build a box about 16 in. square x 8 in. high. Leave top off. Cover the bottom with 1/4" or 3/8" mesh hardware cloth. Put 2x4 legs on it around 16 in. high(Hdwe cloth on bottom). Shovel bullets and dirt into the box. Tap box til all dirt falls through. Pour bullets in 5 gal. bucket. Repeat.

I've never tried casting - though I am getting to the point where I'd seriously consider it, especially if I got a good deal on some used equipment.

But from what I've read, one zinc wheel weight will ruin a whole batch of lead. Seems like I recall something about zinc in the alloy making the bullets porous or the molds not filling out right?
Or am I mistaken about that?

Is it possible to cast bullets in regular molds using just zinc wheel weights? Would that make decent bullets? I know they would be lighter than lead bullets from the same molds, but would they be OK otherwise?

 

[scott1970]

I've never tried casting - though I am getting to the point where I'd seriously consider it, especially if I got a good deal on some used equipment.

But from what I've read, one zinc wheel weight will ruin a whole batch of lead. Seems like I recall something about zinc in the alloy making the bullets porous or the molds not filling out right?
Or am I mistaken about that?

Is it possible to cast bullets in regular molds using just zinc wheel weights? Would that make decent bullets? I know they would be lighter than lead bullets from the same molds, but would they be OK otherwise?

I've seen a batch ruined by zinc wheel weights. The alloy won't fill out properly in a mold afterwards and is useless, but it sure does make a pretty rainbow on top of the liquid alloy. Some say it can be fluxed and skimmed off, but I don't think it can.

The key to avoid this from happening is the barbeque method, you cook down the wheel weights low and slow just like making good ribs. There is enough variation between the melting point of lead and zinc to where you do not have to pre-sort the weights prior to making ingots, but a good thermometer is a necessity. The zinc and steel weights, the valve stems and caps, wheel weight clips, they all float to the top and can be skimmed off easily.

I've not cast ingots in over ten or twelve years, and I still have a huge stash left. In this photo, I had cast just over 500 ingots from scrap wheel weights. Those little ingots have some heft, so there is a massive number of bullets just from this one session.

ㅤ

 

[AJ]

I've seen a batch ruined by zinc wheel weights. The alloy won't fill out properly in a mold afterwards and is useless, but it sure does make a pretty rainbow on top of the liquid alloy. Some say it can be fluxed and skimmed off, but I don't think it can.

The key to avoid this from happening is the barbeque method, you cook down the wheel weights low and slow just like making good ribs. There is enough variation between the melting point of lead and zinc to where you do not have to pre-sort the weights prior to making ingots, but a good thermometer is a necessity. The zinc and steel weights, the valve stems and caps, wheel weight clips, they all float to the top and can be skimmed off easily.

I've not cast ingots in over ten or twelve years, and I still have a huge stash left. In this photo, I had cast just over 500 ingots from scrap wheel weights. Those little ingots have some heft, so there is a massive number of bullets just from this one session.

ㅤ

Looks like you use a muffin cast iron baking mold.

 

[GypsmJim]

I've never tried casting - though I am getting to the point where I'd seriously consider it, especially if I got a good deal on some used equipment.

But from what I've read, one zinc wheel weight will ruin a whole batch of lead. Seems like I recall something about zinc in the alloy making the bullets porous or the molds not filling out right?
Or am I mistaken about that?

Is it possible to cast bullets in regular molds using just zinc wheel weights? Would that make decent bullets? I know they would be lighter than lead bullets from the same molds, but would they be OK otherwise?

Just before the switch to zinc I was able to get a lifetime supply of WWs. Inevitably I got a few zinc mixed in. I use a bottom pour pot and use it to fill muffin trays. Since the zinc melts at a higher temperature it was easy to filter them out. I may have lost a bit of lead, but it didn't matter. My resulting ingots have worked fine.

IMHO I prefer the aluminum Lee molds. I wouldn't buy a used one. The lead melters are pretty cheap and you won't have to worry about one being burned out. Lee's sizers are also cheap. No good reason o buy used.

 

[scott1970]

Looks like you use a muffin cast iron baking mold.

I have a number of them. Nobody seems to want to use the old, heavy cast iron muffin pans for cooking. I have muffin shapes, corn pone and cornbread wedges.


I cook my wheel weights in a dirt cheap, Chinese cast iron dutch oven courtesy of Harbor Freight seated on a turkey fryer stand. Somebody gave me a big cast iron ladle which is perfect for filling the muffin pans.

 

[max503]

I've seen a batch ruined by zinc wheel weights. The alloy won't fill out properly in a mold afterwards and is useless, but it sure does make a pretty rainbow on top of the liquid alloy.

ㅤ

Just because you have a "rainbow" on your melt doesn't mean you have zinc in it, thankfully. Other metals give colors. Even pure lead.

 

[AJ]

I have a number of them. Nobody seems to want to use the old, heavy cast iron muffin pans for cooking. I have muffin shapes, corn pone and cornbread wedges.


I cook my wheel weights in a dirt cheap, Chinese cast iron dutch oven courtesy of Harbor Freight seated on a turkey fryer stand. Somebody gave me a big cast iron ladle which is perfect for filling the muffin pans.

I have Lyman ingot molds, but I prefer cast iron muffin pans. I have a couple of corn bread cast iron molds, but my wife uses them for decorations......

 

[Old Corp]

For very many years all my brass was free, courtesy of my job and 'range days'.
My FIL was associated with a tire business and I got all the wheel weights I could use and more - free.
I made my own bullet lube from an old Lyman recipe. Smells like crayons when shooting, but worked perfect.

I had to supply powder and primers and much of my current stock is from 'Prepare for Y2K' days - so 'last century cheap'.
I'm no math whiz, but figure the bulk of my handgun shooting is quite inexpensive.

 

[Johnrh]

The reason you stack components deep when they are cheap is so you can come onto threads like this and brag about how cheap you can reload ammo at prices from 10 years ago.

I'm still loading using primers purchased at $30/1k, cast bullets at $1/lb for wheelweights, powder at $25/lb, and brass that has long paid for itself so doesn't go on the expense list.

$0.03/each is an exaggeration though. The cheapest I've ever been able to reload a cartridge for is about $0.06/each for cast 9mm plinkers and .38spcl wadcutters, and thats with free range brass, $30/1k primers, $1/lb lead, and $25/lb bullseye powder.

That's why your loading cost is so high-$1 per pound for lead. You'd be down to my cost if you had free lead like I have, just under 4 cents.

 

[reddog81]

That's why your loading cost is so high-$1 per pound for lead. You'd be down to my cost if you had free lead like I have, just under 4 cents.

If you have received free lead, powder, primers and cases like I've gotten over the years you could be at $.00 per round

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Bottom line is......For many of us this ain't our first rodeo. This "situation" has happened with regime changes in Washington for the last 16 years. So we are/were "climatised" to forth coming shortages and were well prepared. While all we hear from a lot of others is weeping and nashing of teeth.

 

[AJ]

Bottom line is......For many of us this ain't our first rodeo. This "situation" has happened with regime changes in Washington for the last 16 years. So we are/were "climatized" to forth coming shortages and were well prepared. While all we hear from a lot of others is weeping and gnashing of teeth.

Like the man said "Ain't our first rodeo". Have stockpiled components when times were good. Will again if/when the prices come down to something more reasonable.