How to Clean Brushed Stainless Front of Cylinder?

Nope. Post #6 is the correct answer.:cool:

I'll join the argument. I tried SLIP whatever and found it useless. Haven't been impressed with the Hoppe's/brush either. The Leadaway cloth has always been my go to process. Don
 
What is the best way to clean the fouling off of the front of the cylinder on a brushed stainless cylinder (686 PC 2.5")? Will Flitz make it shiny?

While we are out, how about a carbon steel blued cylinder? Thanks!

Send it to me and I'll do it for free, as long as it's a prelock and you let me add my own carbon rings. :-)
 
I also recommend the Lead Away cloth.
It takes me at least 5 minutes of rubbing to get cylinder clean.
If you buy a cloth, cut it into small pieces (2"x2") so you don't get the entire cloth dirty. One cloth lasts a long time.
 
The Lead Away cloths from Birchwood Casey do a remarkable job.
I just cut a piece about twice as big as a bore patch and rub the fouling out.

This works for me as well. It takes a little rubbing but it does come off. Something to keep in mind though. If you plan on firing the gun again, don't bother doing it because it'll be just as bad when you're done shooting. Get it as clean as you can and shoot on!
 
Since the deposits are not lead as much as they are byproducts of the firing, most notably carbon, it is odd that so many are going for a lead removal cloth or some method that removes some degree of material. My chemical approach and a plastic bristle brush leaves the cylinder face almost pristine. Sometimes there is a stain beneath the surface that I just leave. It's clean enough. I will stay with my Otis Carbon Remover or Slip2000 Carbon Remover/Bore Cleaner.
 
Frog Lube cleans the cylinders on my blued 29-10 and stainless 67 and 686 very well. With FL on there prior to shooting, it's even easier to clean after a range trip.
 

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