How to Clean Rear end of the Barrel
- Thread starter RMS272829
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Flitz and a toothbrush to clean, followed by Simichrome, rag, toothpicks and Q-tips for final polish...Finish with RenWax and Q-tips...
...Ben
...BenProtocall_Design
Vendor
You can use a stainless steel toothbrush and a dental pick. You might want to check that rear sight screw just above there. It might be a bit loose.
Second the dental pic but be careful you can easily send the tip sliding along the side of the gun. I use brass brushes on blued guns, stainless on stainless gun.Scroth-brite pads also work well especially with a brass screw driver pushing it into the corners.Even better to let it soak.
Last edited:
BRASS brush and Hoppes. No stainless steel near my blued stuff. If you want to nitpick, soak a patch in cleaning solution and use it like floss in the space above the forcing cone.
geddylee10002000
Member
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Messages
- 747
- Reaction score
- 536
A good soak with Ed's Red, dental floss picks (plastic), stubborn residue I use brass picks or sharpened chop sticks (bamboo).
Last edited:
austintexas
Member
cleaning
I hope I don't offend anyone. I don't worry too much about that end of the barrel. When I clean my revolvers, I give that portion of the barrel a good scrubbing with something like a toothbrush and if I don't get it all I don't care. Next day or week I'll be out shooting again and It will get just as dirty again so my guns are not squeaky clean there.
SWCA 892
PS, If I was going to sell the firearm I would do a deep cleaning.
I hope I don't offend anyone. I don't worry too much about that end of the barrel. When I clean my revolvers, I give that portion of the barrel a good scrubbing with something like a toothbrush and if I don't get it all I don't care. Next day or week I'll be out shooting again and It will get just as dirty again so my guns are not squeaky clean there.
SWCA 892
PS, If I was going to sell the firearm I would do a deep cleaning.
Last edited:
I've been shooting and cleaning S&W revolvers for more than 60 years. My practice has always been to fold a patch soaked with Hoppes (or whatever solvent you use) and rub it vigorously on the area between the top of the barrel extension and the underside of the top strap. This will remove powder residue, etc., from that area effectively. If the gun has been neglected for a long time (for example, if you acquire it used) and this area has caked on powder residue that has hardened, then more aggressive measures might need to be taken (bronze brush, etc.). However, if you faithfully address this area with a solvent-soaked cloth every time you clean after shooting, that process is usually sufficient.
Most hardware stores sell brass and stainless brushes, probably in plumbing dept. brass one works great in that area after a soak with hoppes
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Messages
- 19,794
- Reaction score
- 31,633
IMHO any brush used on a gun should be Phosphor Bronze, Brass or Nylon. I'd personally not use a stainless steel brush on any firearm I own - they are simply too hard IMO. Hoppes 9 is about the best carbon removal chemical that I know is safe (the old formula works better). A Lead-a-Way cloth cut into thin strips will work also.
The best way to prevent that much build up is to clean the end of the barrel and top strap with whatever cleaner you normally use. I use my regular G96 Synthetic gun oil and a nylon toothbrush every time I clean and that prevents 98% of the build up. The sooner after you shoot you clean, the easier it seems to come off. Once every few months I also clean my frequently shot revolvers with the old formula of Hoppes 9 and a nylon toothbrush, as I still have some left. The new version works OK - just not as good, but from what I understand it does not contain Benzene. Benzene is a hazardous chemical (got it) but used outdoors with rubber gloves seems to be safe enough with a bit of common sense. I don't use the old Hoppes 9 on any regular basis these days.
The best way to prevent that much build up is to clean the end of the barrel and top strap with whatever cleaner you normally use. I use my regular G96 Synthetic gun oil and a nylon toothbrush every time I clean and that prevents 98% of the build up. The sooner after you shoot you clean, the easier it seems to come off. Once every few months I also clean my frequently shot revolvers with the old formula of Hoppes 9 and a nylon toothbrush, as I still have some left. The new version works OK - just not as good, but from what I understand it does not contain Benzene. Benzene is a hazardous chemical (got it) but used outdoors with rubber gloves seems to be safe enough with a bit of common sense. I don't use the old Hoppes 9 on any regular basis these days.
Last edited:
What he said^^^
Same here, for 50 years.
Bingo! My thoughts exactly. Super cleaning is overrated in my book. I don't want to spend more time cleaning than shooting! Brass or nylon brushes soaked in Hoppes do the trick for me. It's good enough. I'm more concerned about any leading in the forcing cone or leade.
Same cleaning methods apply to the front of the cylinder where nasty stuff accumulates, particularly on SS guns. I also use Lead Away cleaning and polishing cloths to remove the fouling.
I only clean that portion if I know a revolver will be put away for a while. Usually I just use a Q tip soaked in Hoppes for the majority (every cleaning). As far as between the top strap and cone I'll use the lead remover cloth. The cloth also works wonders on the front of the cylinder. Don't use it on blued guns though!
Model19man
Member
Same. Works well.
I used my brass brush and got some of the carbon off after letting Hopps 9 soak. There are still places of hard carbon cake. I'll look into a brass scraper/pick to do the final cleaning. The gun was bought used and did not appear to be well cleaned but is tight and functions properly. Now for the removal of the side plate and the internals cleaning and lub'ing.
I generally use worn brass bore brushes from my 44 or 45 to get in closer to the crevises. I'll use it with CLP or bore cleaner.
I also use heavy gauge copper wire. I don't recall the actual gauge # off hand. I flatten one end with a hammer and file it so it's makes a nice scraper for going after lead buildup.
For a stainless gun, if I really want it super clean, I'll use a patch from an old lemon oil "Miracle Cloth" wrapped over a small slotted screwdriver. Take care not to wear through the cloth and have steel against steel. You'll want to knock the sharpness off of the screwdriver tip. It will remove all staining on a stainless gun and on a blued gun the blueing too. I don't know the effect it would have on chrome or nickle.
I also use heavy gauge copper wire. I don't recall the actual gauge # off hand. I flatten one end with a hammer and file it so it's makes a nice scraper for going after lead buildup.
For a stainless gun, if I really want it super clean, I'll use a patch from an old lemon oil "Miracle Cloth" wrapped over a small slotted screwdriver. Take care not to wear through the cloth and have steel against steel. You'll want to knock the sharpness off of the screwdriver tip. It will remove all staining on a stainless gun and on a blued gun the blueing too. I don't know the effect it would have on chrome or nickle.
Last edited:
AveragEd
Member
Places like MidwayUSA sell brush kits like this one.
Access Denied
Ed
Edit to clarify that this link is not dangerous or infected in any way - apparently there is a word in the item description that this site's software doesn't like. It is safe to open it.
Last edited:
I try to not let residue in that area bother me, especially on a revolver that is going to see regular range time. To clean that area, plenty of solvent and nylon, brass, or bronze brush, no steel or stainless steel brushes.
