How to Fix a S&W 1006 with Disabled De-Cocker/Safety

[Leiden]

I just came into possession of a S&W 1006 where the original owner had a local gunsmith (a well known and outstanding gunsmith) do a "trigger job" on his 1006 in which the magazine safety was removed and the de-cocking function on the Safety/De-Cocker was removed. Basically, the pistol has a safety only and I would like to know what parts I need to replace. I re-installed the magazine safety so that's taken care of.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[snw19_357]

If the decocking lever was just removed you can just replace it. part number 104030000.

It still has the firing pin safety lever, right? If so then you probably won't need to get another spring (060170000).

 

[Leiden]

If the decocking lever was just removed you can just replace it. part number 104030000.

It still has the firing pin safety lever, right? If so then you probably won't need to get another spring (060170000).

The ambi Safety/De-Cocking lever is still on the slide and the firing pin safety lever is in place too.

 

[snw19_357]

The lever(s) in the frame.

#20 is the firing pin safety lever, #63 is the decocking lever

 

[Leiden]

The lever(s) in the frame.

#20 is the firing pin safety lever, #63 is the decocking lever

Yes, parts 63 and 20 are in the frame. The pistol functions as normal, just when the safety/de-cock lever is swung down the safety activated and the hammer doesn't move.

I wonder if either parts 63 or 20 could have been modified to make this happen? If you'd like a photo I could take one. Everything looks normal on the inside, but something must be missing or a part must have been modified.

 

[snw19_357]

I would think that #63 would have to be ground down almost flush to the top of the frame. When you place the slide back on the frame, do you have to push down on that lever for the slide to go all of the way on?

When the manual safety is swung down, it pushes down #63 on the drawbar which drops the hammer and deactivates the trigger.

You swing down the lever and it doesn't drop the hammer. Does it deactivate the trigger?

Photos are always clearer than (especially my) words.

 

[Leiden]

I would think that #63 would have to be ground down almost flush to the top of the frame. When you place the slide back on the frame, do you have to push down on that lever for the slide to go all of the way on?

When the manual safety is swung down, it pushes down #63 on the drawbar which drops the hammer and deactivates the trigger.

You swing down the lever and it doesn't drop the hammer. Does it deactivate the trigger?

Photos are always clearer than (especially my) words.

Yes, I have to push 63 down to put the slide on but it doesn't stick up too far. When I swing the lever down it disables the trigger but does not drop the hammer. Part 63 in my pistol looks to have a cut out up front and not exactly like 63 in your schematic. I just pulled the slide off my 4506 and part 63 matches the one in it, but the spring is a bit stronger pushing up parts 20 and 63.

 

[SW CQB 45]

Could they have installed the hammer block from an 845 or have altered the decocking body to prevent the decocker lever from activating?

 

[WR Moore]

You might take it back to the gent who did the original work. The decocking lever is a fitted part, so skilled attention will be necessary for it to work properly.

The easiest way to eliminate the decocker is to grind the leg of the lever that contacts the sear. If that's been done, the lever has to be replaced, and as noted above, fitted. If the safety body has been altered, the guys reputation as skilled/outstanding becomes highly debatable. If you need to alter parts, you alter the cheapest of the parts necessary to accomplish the task.

BTW-the magazine safety on S&W pistols has no effect whatever on the quality of the trigger pull. Do what you will, but if you knowingly leave it out and something happens that reasonably would have been prevented by the device, YOU own all the liability.

 

[Leiden]

You might take it back to the gent who did the original work. The decocking lever is a fitted part, so skilled attention will be necessary for it to work properly.

The easiest way to eliminate the decocker is to grind the leg of the lever that contacts the sear. If that's been done, the lever has to be replaced, and as noted above, fitted. If the safety body has been altered, the guys reputation as skilled/outstanding becomes highly debatable. If you need to alter parts, you alter the cheapest of the parts necessary to accomplish the task.

BTW-the magazine safety on S&W pistols has no effect whatever on the quality of the trigger pull. Do what you will, but if you knowingly leave it out and something happens that reasonably would have been prevented by the device, YOU own all the liability.

I re-installed the magazine safety...this 1006 will replace my 4506 as a duty pistol and we can't have a modified weapon with a safety device removed. I took the slide assy. off the 1006 and put it on my 1066 frame and it de-cocked just fine so now I think it has to be the sear safety lever in the frame that was modified. I am guessing the gunsmith could have taken one from a 745 and installed it, which would account for the SAO part. I'm going to swap the sear safety lever that's in the frame for another from a 4506 and see it that solves it.

Thank you everyone for the help.

 

[Leiden]

I got it fixed. Part 63 belongs to a S&W 745 and the bottom tab is half the normal length and angled upwards.... I put in the same part for a 4506 and it de-cocked perfectly. Well, luckily it's only a $2.50 part from gunpartscorp.com. If anyone wants a S&W 745 sear lever to have a SAO 4506/1006 family pistol let e-mail me your address and I'll send it to you.

Thanks for the help!

 

[WR Moore]

Glad everything worked out and cheaply to boot. If you want to check the sear dropping feature for proper function, set the safety lever about at half travel with the hammer down. When you cock the hammer, the safety should apply itself. If it doesn't, the sear lever needs adjustment.