How to stop flinching

Wfevans4

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How do you stop flinching? Other than man up!!! 357 (rarely 38) and 44 mag is what I'm shooting.

I've shot mostly Glocks and other semi-autos most of my life and now that I'm getting into revolvers, I flinch more than I want to. Especially double action.
 
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How do you stop flinching? Other than man up!!! 357 (rarely 38) and 44 mag is what I'm shooting.

I've shot mostly Glocks and other semi-autos most of my life and now that I'm getting into revolvers, I flinch more than I want to. Especially double action.
l still do it to a degree, but the answer is practice a lot. I know a few guys who recommend loading only 1 live round and the rest of the cylinder are empties, so the shot is a surprise instead of the other way around. Never tried it.
 
It's hard to explain, but for me flinching feels like a reflex, almost like a sneeze. Recognize when it's coming on, slow down, take a breath, etc. and restart your trigger squeeze.
 
I am quite familiar with flinching. Mine started about 5 years after I started trapshooting. One thing that I have found, a lot of mine is driven by sound. The more ear protection I have the better it is. I will use ear plugs plus earmuffs. Then, I try to put total focus on trigger control for handgun and rifle. If your mind is totally focused on one thing it will help you ignore the other, or in other words ignore the report you are gonna hear. Anyway, we are all different, and that's what works for me. But, you will never get over it, just try to deal with it.
 
Never actually flinched with a handgun. Largest I've shot being 44 Mag.
But I have flinched with rifles.
Like a 338 Rem Mag, Savage 110 LH.
Could only shoot it standing up over the hood of my truck.
Have shot a fair amount of REM 7 Mag, recoil not too bad, hated the noise!
 
I sti

l still do it to a degree, but the answer is practice a lot. I know a few guys who recommend loading only 1 live round and the rest of the cylinder are empties, so the shot is a surprise instead of the other way around. Never tried it.
That method ,or leave one hole empty,will reveal anticipatory movement of the gun.
It works.
 
I started shooting in high school. Like 99% of the shooters back then it was with revolvers. My "teacher" used to load my revolver for me. He might load 6 live rounds or 5 with a spent round or 4 with 2 spent rounds. Trigger control becomes very apparent when a dud is shot. If I flinched he would pop me on the side of the head. I got a lot better and paid much more attention to squeezing and not flinching. Mainly not to give him the satisfaction.
 
The most-recommended remedy is often the ball-and-dummy drill. Another option—shooting a rimfire for a while—has already been mentioned.

My own solution is a bit different. While we often call it a "flinch," I think "recoil anticipation" is a more accurate term. Recognize that you're going to want to force the muzzle downward to mitigate recoil…then don't do that.

Whenever the "flinch" rears its ugly head I'll focus very hard on the front sight, concentrating on keeping it dead still through the whole trigger stroke.
 
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When I'm teaching a new handgun shooter I will always start with my Mod 18. I will take the little 22lr and load 3 or 4 rounds in the cylinder where the student can't see it. Then I'll hand them the gun and have them start firing. You will very quickly see if they are flinching. If they are, then I reassure them that there is nothing to be afraid of and have them dry fire the empty gun. Once they are capable of keeping the muzzle from moving during dry fire, we'll go back to me partially loading the cylinder out of sight. When they can go through every chamber without flinching, they can start loading the gun fully. Has worked every time.
 
Shoot Creedmore style. That is, lay down on the ground and prop yourself up with your left arm. Draw your right leg up far enough that you can, with your right hand. Now, holding the gun in your right hand, rest it against the calf of your right leg, making sure it's far enough forward that the flash from the cylinder/barrel gap goes in front of your leg not against it. Let the gun recoil as high as it wants; don't try to hold it down.

Don't blink. Learn to keep both eyes open.
 
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I never had a flinch until I started shooting 357 SIG in an HK USP Compact. Talk about muzzle blast! A combination of dry firing, shooting a .22 pistol, and mixing spent cases with live rounds in a heavy .38 Special revolver finally got me past it. I did eventually abandon that cartridge though.

The worst recoil I've ever experienced in a long gun was sighting in a Ruger M-77 with that black plastic "boat paddle" stock in 338 Win Mag. Yowzaa! Right now I'm learning how to shoot 375 H&H Magnum effectively in preparation for a hunt. I'm mostly shooting a "reduced recoil" load - "only" 235 grains going 2,500 fps as opposed to 300 grains going 2,550 for the full load. At least the rifle weighs 12 pounds with the scope and it's not as bad as that Ruger… At least that's what I keep telling myself. 8-10 rounds per practice session.
 
I do the same thing but use a centerfire .38 special , after they are comfortable I may sneak in a light .357 or two and then tell them afterwards they fired .357, some say I noticed a couple seemed hotter but they no longer fear it.
Btw, I would not try that in a small or light gun, I use a 6" Model 27 which is a pussycat at taming recoil.
On a side note,
I would recommend inserting a few fired 22lr casings instead of empty chambers in your K22 as the firing pin on a rimfire will strike the cylinder edge eventually peening it.
 
How do you stop flinching? Other than man up!!! 357 (rarely 38) and 44 mag is what I'm shooting.

I've shot mostly Glocks and other semi-autos most of my life and now that I'm getting into revolvers, I flinch more than I want to. Especially double action.
Practice trigger control with an empty gun (use dummy rounds or snap caps) and do not rush or anticipate the shot. Trigger control is slowly squeezing the trigger with slowly increasing pressure on it until it fires - never pull or jerk a trigger When the gun fires it should be somewhat of a "surprise" as to the precise moment it goes off. You can start off live shooting with a .22 and work up from there. Do not move up until you are flinch-free with the lighter and smaller calibers. When you pull the trigger your gun's barrel should not move downward. Focus on your sight picture - it is perfectly ok to have the target be somewhat blurry. The human eye is incapable of keeping the rear sight, front sight and the target all in focus at the same time. Squeeze, do not pull. Gently increase pressure until you hear the bang. Master that and you have mastered trigger control and eliminated the flinch.

If you don't have a 22 revolver you might consider buying or renting one (or shooting with a friend that has one. Just buy some ammo for it. Stay with it until you master - no more flinching.
 
Practice trigger control with an empty gun (use dummy rounds or snap caps) and do not rush or anticipate the shot. Trigger control is slowly squeezing the trigger with slowly increasing pressure on it until it fires - never pull or jerk a trigger When the gun fires it should be somewhat of a "surprise" as to the precise moment it goes off. You can start off live shooting with a .22 and work up from there. Do not move up until you are flinch-free with the lighter and smaller calibers. When you pull the trigger your gun's barrel should not move downward. Focus on your sight picture - it is perfectly ok to have the target be somewhat blurry. The human eye is incapable of keeping the rear sight, front sight and the target all in focus at the same time. Squeeze, do not pull. Gently increase pressure until you hear the bang. Master that and you have mastered trigger control and eliminated the flinch.

If you don't have a 22 revolver you might consider buying or renting one (or shooting with a friend that has one. Just buy some ammo for it. Stay with it until you master - no more flinching.
Along with this advice control your wobble with the trigger. Every one has a sight wobble, slight or major. Put yours in as small a circle as possible. While focusing on trigger pressure only add pressure to it when you are in the last quarter of the circle approaching the target, never when you are moving away from it.
The concentration of these two things should keep your mind off of "This is going to be load, unexpected and painful".
 
Along with this advice control your wobble with the trigger. Every one has a sight wobble, slight or major. Put yours in as small a circle as possible. While focusing on trigger pressure only add pressure to it when you are in the last quarter of the circle approaching the target, never when you are moving away from it.
The concentration of these two things should keep your mind off of "This is going to be load, unexpected and painful".
I could not agree more! The smaller the target circle, the less your drift will be and the smaller your groups will be. "Aim Small - Miss Small" so they saying goes. I try and get that point across to new shooters who thinkl they will embarrase themselves less by shooting at a giant bullseye. When I give them a B-3 NRA target for use at 50 feet and put a 3/4" red sticker inside the 2.5" black circle they bitch and moan - until I make them try it. Then they surprise themselves.

Just showing you the 3/4" orange circles within the 2.5" B-3 targets. Certainly not my best shooting last week.
 

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I could not agree more! The smaller the target circle, the less your drift will be and the smaller your groups will be. "Aim Small - Miss Small" so they saying goes. I try and get that point across to new shooters who thinkl they will embarrase themselves less by shooting at a giant bullseye. When I give them a B-3 NRA target for use at 50 feet and put a 3/4" red sticker inside the 2.5" black circle they bitch and moan - until I make them try it. Then they surprise themselves.

Just showing you the 3/4" orange circles within the 2.5" B-3 targets. Certainly not my best shooting last week.
Another here in favor of the smallest target you can clearly focus on without eyestrain at your selected distance. I like to shoot at a 2" square at 25 yards with all handguns, bullseye style. Groups are always smaller than when using a commercial target with an enormous 6" bullseye, though the latter is passable (but still a bit large) for 50 yard shooting - something I'm still not good at but I'm trying...

I never found dry firing to be beneficial, but if it works for you, keep at it.
 
I could not agree more! The smaller the target circle, the less your drift will be and the smaller your groups will be. "Aim Small - Miss Small" so they saying goes. I try and get that point across to new shooters who thinkl they will embarrase themselves less by shooting at a giant bullseye. When I give them a B-3 NRA target for use at 50 feet and put a 3/4" red sticker inside the 2.5" black circle they bitch and moan - until I make them try it. Then they surprise themselves.

Just showing you the 3/4" orange circles within the 2.5" B-3 targets. Certainly not my best shooting last week.
Flinching or no flinching, that is dad gum good shooting, I don't care who ya are!

The advice from mtgianni is excellent and takes enormous amount of concentration and eye-finger coordination.

At the range, between 4 yards and 12 yards, my lasers have really improved my targeting and POI because I can see the dot moving on the target at the split second I squeeze the trigger.
 
I do the same thing but use a centerfire .38 special , after they are comfortable I may sneak in a light .357 or two and then tell them afterwards they fired .357, some say I noticed a couple seemed hotter but they no longer fear it.
Btw, I would not try that in a small or light gun, I use a 6" Model 27 which is a pussycat at taming recoil.
On a side note,
I would recommend inserting a few fired 22lr casings instead of empty chambers in your K22 as the firing pin on a rimfire will strike the cylinder edge eventually peening it.
Cheap .22 snap caps can be found at the hardware store. The yellow wall anchors for screws work perfectly and will extract in revolvers and autos. I use them in my .22 autos that can't be decocked other than pulling the trigger when I put them away.
 
Fired mostly glocks…..plural. That means more than one Glock. Poor guy.

Jerry Miculek says close your eyes and dry fire. I've never tried it but Jerry is a whole lot smarter than I.
 
For me, I feel It just takes a conscious effort and a lot of practice to stop flinching. I remember firing a marlin 444 once, when I was a teenager new to firearms, that made me flinch! Lol

TT
 
What works for me, I only shoot double action. I find that my grip when shooting double action helps with my perception of recoil. I focus on the trigger squeeze. I try and get the cylinder to rotate quickly enough that I can feel it lockup. At that point after the lockup, I then focus on sight alignment. It doesn't take much more trigger pull until the revolver fires. A larger cyclinder revolver is the best choice for this technique. Dry firing in a safe manner will help. Good luck.
 
How do you stop flinching? Other than man up!!! 357 (rarely 38) and 44 mag is what I'm shooting.

I've shot mostly Glocks and other semi-autos most of my life and now that I'm getting into revolvers, I flinch more than I want to. Especially double action.
When you graduate into revolvers you will find that for the most part semi auto calibers do not compare to the power and effectiveness of real handguns. They shoot harder, go faster and are way more accurate than most semi autos. Take for example, a 357 mag has heavier bullets, goes faster, has more energy and hits harder than even your beloved 10mm, and thats just for starters. You also don't have any semi auto action to take up the recoil. If you are flinching the only way to stop flinching is to concentrate on proper shooting techniques, quit jerking the trigger. The only way you can flinch is if you know the gun it going to go off. If that is the case you are jerking the trigger and expecting the recoil. If you are properly pressing the trigger you will not know when the gun is going to fire, thus you cannot flinch.

Breathe in, breathe out, hold your breath, aim and press the trigger. Once you hold your breath the gun needs to fire within 5 seconds or your vision will start to blur and you will begin to tremble. No shot in 5 seconds, stop, relax, go back to a ready position, take a breath and start over .
 
I just tell people to focus on keeping their eyes open and get to the point where the last thing they see is the muzzle flash covering the target behind the still lined up sights.
 
What you call flinching could simply be a reaction to recoil and in my opinion that is something everyone does. Almost impossible to stop it. It is a natural reaction. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Then you have what I call trigger yank you are on target, FINIALLY, and yank the trigger back.
 

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