How will this affect accuracy?

beltron462

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Crown looked like crap on my 442. Had it recrowned, but the rifling grooves aren't all the same depth (this is how it was originally too). How will this affect accuracy? I've noticed a lot of the 442 and 642's with the uneven grooves at the crown. Thanks.
 

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It's been my limited experience that it's hit or miss (sorry for the pun) on how much bore pitting and crown damage affect accuracy...with the latter having the potential to impact accuracy more. I say you'll have to shoot it to know for sure. It might not have any affect at all.

I will say that I don't personally consider a 442 to be a "bullseye accurate" gun (in my hands) anyway. It would be hard for me to tell if the crown was causing a small accuracy issue. I have a 442 and a 642 and I appreciate both guns for what they are...which is paper plate accurate at best in these mitts :) .
 
This should not effect your accuracy. Remeber the twist rate of the grooves and lands will alway be shown in this type situation. From the pictures it seems the crown is not real true.
 
This should not effect your accuracy. Remeber the twist rate of the grooves and lands will alway be shown in this type situation. From the pictures it seems the crown is not real true.

Not questioning you by any means (newbie to the subject), just curious as to why you think that the crown does not look true. What part can I take a closer look at? Thanks.
 
beltron462;
First of all, I CAN see what you are talking about. A GOOD snub nose will shoot a lot better than you think. Send the pics to S&W and ask them if they'll replace the barrel.

In the meantime, try the gun from a rest (or get some one of known ability to do so for you). Then make a decision as to whether you want to send it back.

If nothing else, it'll reduce the re-sale value of the gun.

FWIW
Dale53
 
Well, I got out tonight and this was from 3-4 yards out. Granted, I'm a complete newbie to a snubnose.
 

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Granted, I'm a complete newbie to a snubnose.

There's a video posted online somewhere of Jerry Miculek demonstrating different grip techniques for different size revolvers. I found it very informative in regards to grip technique for J frame revolvers. I'll post a link if I can find it...or maybe someone else can provide a link.

He is right handed. He uses the left hand, in part, to support the right wrist. I found this grip really improved my enjoyment when shooting J frames. A picture is worth a thousand words so hopefully the video will turn up. HTH.
 
I have noticed the exact same condition on my 642-2 that I carry regularly. At the range I can print 3 inch groups at 10 yards, which I am happy with.

Have a friend who is experienced with shooting snubs try out a cylinder or three and see how it shoots. By the looks of your target I suspect your trigger manipulation is the problem.
 
I have noticed the exact same condition on my 642-2 that I carry regularly. At the range I can print 3 inch groups at 10 yards, which I am happy with.

Have a friend who is experienced with shooting snubs try out a cylinder or three and see how it shoots. By the looks of your target I suspect your trigger manipulation is the problem.

Yeah, that's my next step. I'm going to ask someone who works at the range I go to to shoot it. I suppose it's going to take some time to get used to this trigger. For now, I would just like to be consistent at up to about 12-15 feet.
 
Just keep working with it. The trigger should smooth out a little with use. A trigger job would also help. BUT, J frames are not target guns. Another post stated 3" groups at 10 yards. I would be very happy with that if the SHTF. Good luck with it.
 
Sir, you may want to put a few more rounds through your 442 before you do anything else as well as dry firing it lots. Your groups should tighten up with some practice. As others have posted the 442 is a S/D revolver, and 7 of your 10 rounds should have been a fight stopper.

Best of luck
 
Littel click...

So I was dry firing my 442 today, and I noticed a subtle little click a bit past halfway back on the pull. I'm not sure, but for some reason, I'm thinking that this might help me out. I'm pretty sure that I've been jerking the trigger pretty good. Might try listening for that little click to keep slow and steady.
 
So I was dry firing my 442 today, and I noticed a subtle little click a bit past halfway back on the pull. I'm not sure, but for some reason, I'm thinking that this might help me out. I'm pretty sure that I've been jerking the trigger pretty good. Might try listening for that little click to keep slow and steady.


That's the "single action stop" for me. In other words, I pull the trigger until I feel that click/set and then treat the gun as if it's a single action pull from there. Not really good practice for self defense purposes but I find it gives me the best groups for target practice.
 
That little "click" is the cylinder bolt raising into the bolt cut in the cylinder. You can "stage" the DA trigger on a S&W revolver and improve your accuracy by waiting for the bolt to engage. Some folks frown on the practice advocating a continuous pull but I it doesn't harm the revolver and does give you a better idea about potential accuracy.

Best Regards,

ADP3
 
I've posted so much in your thread I'll share my compadre...often goes where I goes and it shows. The high points and edges are smooth and shiny. Many a mile in my back pocket....I love this gun.


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