I have some question regarding the 686's

1sailor

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I haven't owned any revolvers other than my 2" J frame for some time and really have the itch to pick one up. I was raised on revolvers and have always had a fondness for them but the only full sized pistols I've owned for some time now have been auto's. Anyway, I've been looking at the various 686's and I have a few questions. I know it would be best to just handle a few but I live in BFE so that's not real easy. First thing I noticed is that you have the option of 6 or 7 round cylinders. Is the 7 shot physically much larger and/or are the cylinder walls a lot thinner on the 7 shop model. If they are thinner are there restrictions with regards to what loads can be fired. Has timing etc. been a nightmare on the seven shooters or are they just as stout and reliable as the six shooters. I'm crappy at doing searches but the general consensus seems to be that the 686's in general are capable of very good accuracy. I wasn't sure if I wanted a 4" model or a 6" but came across a Talo edition with a 5" barrel which seems like a fair compromise. I like the looks of the non fluted cylinder but am not overly fond of the grips. Does anyone know if these are a round or square butt and will they accept K model target grips.
 
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I'm thinking of getting that 5 inch talo myself but wasn't sure if I should get the 5 inch or 3 inch.
 
1sailor, I don't think you'll go wrong with any 686. The seven and six shot cylinders are the same, just bored differently, and since the bolt notches are between the chambers, some will say that the seven shot is stronger. I would say there's not any reason to worry about either one, and there are no ammo restrictions of any kind, as long as you are shooting known .357 loads. Hot is fine, light is fine, long is fine, but all within reason. Get one and don't look back!

And, for the purposes of education and entertainment, here's a couple of shots of my 686-4 plus from the PC:

SW686-47.jpg

SW686-46.jpg


The rear view makes it look like there's not much meat between the chambers, but that's an illusion created by the rims of the cartridges.
And I have no reason to believe that the seven shot has any greater possiblily of timing problems. The distance the hand has to push the cylinder is shorter than on a six-shot, so the action does seem faster.

ETA I am pretty sure that all 686's beyond the -3's, or maybe early -4's, have a round butt. You can put round to square conversion grips on if you want the square butt grip. K and L frame grips are the same size.
Get one, you'll be glad you did. :)
 
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Can't add a whole lot to what 2Hawk said...I think the 686+ is one of the finest revolvers that S&W has ever made. I've got 3 of them and they are all great. Of course like most I prefer the prelock guns. Nothing wrong with the 6-shooters either, but that extra round in the 7-shooters is just a bonus. I've never heard of any problems associated with the + models. The top two in the pic are a couple of my 686+ specimens along some of their L-frame buddies...both are 686-5, the top with 3" barrel and the second is a 4" Mountain Gun.
Lframes.jpg
 
I had a 6 inch 586 for a long while and it shot nice but that full underlug was kind of annoying to carry all day so I traded it for a 6" Model 28 which balance better.
 
1sailor, I don't think you'll go wrong with any 686. The seven and six shot cylinders are the same, just bored differently, and since the bolt notches are between the chambers, some will say that the seven shot is stronger. I would say there's not any reason to worry about either one, and there are no ammo restrictions of any kind, as long as you are shooting known .357 loads. Hot is fine, light is fine, long is fine, but all within reason. Get one and don't look back!

And, for the purposes of education and entertainment, here's a couple of shots of my 686-4 plus from the PC:

SW686-47.jpg

SW686-46.jpg


The rear view makes it look like there's not much meat between
the chambers, but that's an illusion created by the rims of the cartridges.
And I have no reason to believe that the seven shot has any greater possiblily of timing problems. The distance the hand has to push the cylinder is shorter than on a six-shot, so the action does seem faster.

ETA I am pretty sure that all 686's beyond the -3's, or maybe
early -4's, have a round butt. You can put round to square conversion grips on if you want the square butt grip. K and L frame grips are the same size.
Get one, you'll be glad you did. :)





2hawk what grips are those? I'm picking up a 3" 686P today and first on my list is replacing the stock grips that don't show the blackstrap.
 
I had a 6 inch 586 for a long while and it shot nice but that full underlug was kind of annoying to carry all day so I traded it for a 6" Model 28 which balance better.


that is what I think also! The half lug feels like my 4in 686!Ilove my 28 it is a s pre-fx serial. It was made in 67 but it looks new!It has never been reblued. I'm thinking about sending her in to get a high polish reblue.Then it will look like a 27.
 
Can't add a whole lot to what 2Hawk said...I think the 686+ is one of the finest revolvers that S&W has ever made. I've got 3 of them and they are all great. Of course like most I prefer the prelock guns. Nothing wrong with the 6-shooters either, but that extra round in the 7-shooters is just a bonus. I've never heard of any problems associated with the + models. The top two in the pic are a couple of my 686+ specimens along some of their L-frame buddies...both are 686-5, the top with 3" barrel and the second is a 4" Mountain Gun.
Lframes.jpg
[/QUOTE
WOW!!!!!!I love a 4in revolver and it looks like you do too!
 
The 586 and 686 are great revolvers and being old school mine are 6 shooters.
586-1
SW586-1left.jpg

686 no dash
SWModel686AhrendsGrips.jpg
 
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I've had my 686 4" bbl for two months and I love it. Always wanted a 357 Magnum and glad I decided on this one.
 
The 586 and 686 are great revolvers and being old school mine are 6 shooters.
586-1
SW586-1left.jpg

686 no dash
SWModel686AhrendsGrips.jpg

I agree about the 6 shooters, I have some 7 holes but the six shot has a special place with me. Long live the "L" Frame 6 shooter.
 
Six verses Seven

I had the same dilema when I decided ot buy a 686. We went to a gun show and there was a 6 shot and a plus (7 shot) side by side. I liked them both but I was only going to buy one. I just couldnt justify the extra hundred bucks to have one more round. Six is classic, its the revolver Ive been used to and it was less money.

I went with six and have been very happy. Its my favorite shooter and my daily carry gun. Oh...its a 686-6 4" barrel (yes it has the IL) It goes everywhere with me

I got addicted to S&W revolvers by owning the M19-3 that I still have but I rarely shoot. It has served me well but now sleeps in my night stand drawer just in case
DSCN0391.jpg

002-6.jpg
 
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I have a 686 plus 4 inch no lock and have fired nothing but 38 spec. in it... It went out of time... so I sent it back for repair... I got it back and put it back in the closet where it still sits today... I seem to be more of a J-frame guy... Later, Dave
 
Just picked up a 6" 686 six shooter and I love it.. Put on Houge monogrips and it handles much better than stock grips . So accurate..Shoots much better than my 629 5" Mountian gun.. Good luck on whatever you pick...
 

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Just picked up a 6" 686 six shooter and I love it.. Put on Houge monogrips and it handles much better than stock grips . So accurate..Shoots much better than my 629 5" Mountian gun.. Good luck on whatever you pick...

That is interesting...I thought all Mountain Guns were 4"...are you sure your 629 is a 5" MG? If so can we see some pics?
 
Just ordered a 5" TALO 686+ myself, similar logic to the OP - couldn't decide between 4" and 6" so 5" seemed like a good compromise. It's not here yet, but hoping for a phone call from my FFL any day now.

This is my first L frame, too. Did I read that right that round butt K frame grips will fit ok?
 

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