I just hit the Buy Now button
- Thread starter beagleye
- Start date
dacoontz
Member
He probably knows what he's doing but you may want to make sure he doesn't ship it tucked into that holster. I've had that happen before.
Congratulations beagleye on a very nice 27. After reading and looking at the pictures of your gun, I had to take a closer look at the 27 no dash 6 1/2" I found a few months back. Let us know when you get that beauty.
With apologies to the OP for barging into his thread -- but I will never turn down an invitation to show a specific firearm.
This one looks a little splotchy, but that's a visually toxic mix of fresh oil and harsh lighting. Time to rephotograph.
handejector
Staff member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 26,134
- Reaction score
- 47,049
It's OK. Here's a photo of a 1955 Pre-27 (six-inch barrel, not 6.5, alas) that had some of the famous sight-block unrinsed bluing salts corrosion that is known from this period.
I'm still curious about what caused that.
Carbona blue is not a salt process.
I've always surmised there was a solvent bath after bluing, and they were not dried well enough before being oiled for packing. That allowed solvent to leak out from under the sight, degreasing that area and allowing it to rust.
SUPPOSITION only, NOT verified by fact.
I also do not recall seeing this corrosion on satin blue guns.
Lee, that's a good suggestion. I'm not enough of a chemist to fully understand what I mean when I say "salts," so I just parrot what I have read or heard elsewhere. I do know that when I got the front sight block separated from this barrel it was all red rust down in the pocket, but superficial. I cleaned it out, brushed clean the sides of the tenon on the sight block, dried all, oiled all, and put it back together.
The only other gun in my collection that shows even a hint of of trouble at the sight base/rib interface is also a high polish mid-'50s revolver. My satin finish revolvers do not show this problem, nor do I recall seeing photos of satin finish revolvers with this problem.
Maybe it's just limited personal experience, but does this problem show up on K frames too? I have run into it only on N frames, but then my '50s-era Masterpieces are all satin guns.
The only other gun in my collection that shows even a hint of of trouble at the sight base/rib interface is also a high polish mid-'50s revolver. My satin finish revolvers do not show this problem, nor do I recall seeing photos of satin finish revolvers with this problem.
Maybe it's just limited personal experience, but does this problem show up on K frames too? I have run into it only on N frames, but then my '50s-era Masterpieces are all satin guns.
Last edited:
Welcome Incali! The numbers inside the crane on the pre model number (pre 1957) guns are assembly numbers, not serial numbers. The official serial number location is normally on the bottom of the grip frame. They may also be located on the cylinder face and under the barrel above the ejector rod on some guns.....
I have a Jan 57 38/44 Outdoorsman with some of the same corrosion, just not as bad. Doesn't hurt the shoot-ability of the gun, just the appearance.
Welcome to the forum incali;
I suspect the number you thought was a non-matching serial number is the one on the lower left side of the grip frame. That is the assembly or soft fitting number. Before the revolver is assigned a serial number it is stamped on the frame, yoke and side plate to keep those parts together. As A10 posted, the assembly number was often stamped on the frame under the yoke where modern revolvers have their duplicate frame serial number rather than on the side of the grip frame.
Up until mid 1946 the serial number was stamped in six places: 1) on the bottom of the butt, 2) rear face of the cylinder, 3) rear surface of the yoke visible through a chamber, 4) on the barrel flat above the ejector rod 5) on the extractor and 6) on the inside of the right stock.
David,
Thank-you for the eye candy. I have a weakness for 8 3/8" barrels. Take good care of her. You never know, you may just be preserving her for my future use.
I suspect the number you thought was a non-matching serial number is the one on the lower left side of the grip frame. That is the assembly or soft fitting number. Before the revolver is assigned a serial number it is stamped on the frame, yoke and side plate to keep those parts together. As A10 posted, the assembly number was often stamped on the frame under the yoke where modern revolvers have their duplicate frame serial number rather than on the side of the grip frame.
Up until mid 1946 the serial number was stamped in six places: 1) on the bottom of the butt, 2) rear face of the cylinder, 3) rear surface of the yoke visible through a chamber, 4) on the barrel flat above the ejector rod 5) on the extractor and 6) on the inside of the right stock.
David,
Thank-you for the eye candy. I have a weakness for 8 3/8" barrels. Take good care of her. You never know, you may just be preserving her for my future use.
larryofcc
Member
I too have a 1957 pre M27. Just a bit different from yours. 6" bbl. and it is a very late 5 screw shipped 3-1957. # S 163827. Must be close to last of the 5 screw .357 Magnums. Big Larry
