I need help - 386NG

[Boost]

For reference, I have visited the first page of the “best gunsmiths/revolver smiths” in my state and I’ve read through ALL their reviews to qualify said “smiths”. I’ve found that all of them either have very little care or experience working with revolvers.

I happened upon a smith that appeared quite competent and was able to complete the work I had asked. Nice guy really and will use him again for other projects. Unfortunately he wanted to do me a favor and completely lube the internals of my 386. It’s dripping…

I am not physically able to get very far disassembling the internals. Getting the hammer out is as far as I can go and still be capable of reassembling without causing damage to the gun and probably myself.

As I’ve always understood it, you’re not supposed to lube everything in there.

In short, I don’t have a trustworthy gunsmith to clean my revolver and I am not able to do a deep, detailed clean myself.

Do you think it’s fine the way it is?

Is there a basic technique/process and/or product I can use to accomplish removing the oil?

Do I need to send it to tkcustoms?

 

[Dump1567]

Not sure where you heard it's not supposed to be lubed, but It's fine the way it is. Just wipe off the excess.

I've cracked open many old S&W's over the years, and most had dried-up lube in them that the factory had added.

 

[Boost]

For some reason I recall that you don’t lube the internals because it will attract particles that will eventually gum everything up. Suppose I haven’t researched much lately but this was what I thought was a huge deal 20yrs ago.

 

[toad67]

IMO, the best video on S&W revolvers..
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ujyLn3lHBc[/ame]

If you can get the hammer out, the rest of the internals are easy, except that the rebound spring can be a PITA, if you don't have something appropriate to remove it. In no way is it difficult to remove, you just need a forked/pronged tool to do it.
Once it's out, the trigger comes off the stud, the same way the hammer does.
Then everything is available to be cleaned and properly lubed.
YOU CAN DO THIS!!!!!!!!

 

[murphydog]

If you will not be using the gun in a dusty/sandy environment I wouldn't worry about it.

But if the concern persists, remove the stocks, flush the internals from the frame openings with aerosol brake cleaner, then lightly re-lube. "Problem" solved.

 

[Lou_the_welder]

I've sprayed the insides with remoil. No biggie!!! [emoji33]
The reason I did it, was because the insides had sand from the factory!!
I'm assuming a poor job on a Frame that was bead blasted.
Again. No problems.

If it's dripping. I'd remove the grips and rest the hilt on a napkin. Let most of it drip out. If it was a light oil, it will drip and evaporate, leaving a light film. If it was motor oil , it takes a bit longer. Let gravity do it's work.
Oil will protect metal. You don't want it really dry either.

I've put light oil on the pins on the insides. No harm there. And it gives something for the metal to slide on easier.

 

[Boost]

Unfortunately there is nothing but dusty, sandy places to shoot. In fact, it’s windy too. I think I will try the combination of suggestions. Wipe it, spray it, rest it and let it drip before wiping again. Thank you for the suggestions!