I need help from a real expert on buying a used s&W

hudpaul

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I want to buy a used revolver in 38 that is light and has the lightest trigger pull as possible which model year should I look for
 
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Ditto to everything Bald1 said. I'm no 'real' expert, but I do sleep with a Smith and Wesson when I'm at a Holiday Inn.

One of the exotic metals revolvers (Scandium or Titanium) will be the lightest (and most expensive probably), and the trigger pulls are pretty much equal unless the gun has had custom work.

A smaller frame might have a lighter perceived trigger pull, if your hands are on the small-ish side. Short fingers trying to reach the target trigger on an N frame, it will seem a much greater pull.
 
This isn't for a female shooter, is it? Light weight = harsh recoil. Lightest trigger, well, they're pretty much all in the same ball park.
 
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That original question is kind of like, "I'm gonna buy a car, what kind should I buy."

2024 Mercedes E series. Total redesign and looks awesome.

After that, Cadillac CT5V- The V6 in the "V" model if you can afford it. Another awesome mid cycle refresh. 2025 model will be in Dealers summer/fall.

What else you looking to buy?
 

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I want to buy a used revolver in 38 that is light and has the lightest trigger pull as possible which model year should I look for
Too little information. Who is the revolver for? What is its intended use? Why does it have to be super light? All factory double-action trigger pulls are hard. Custom gunsmithing can do wonders.
 
The 442 and 38

The mod 442 is an alloy J frame .38 special snubbie. They HURT to shoot. Good for carry, but not so hot for fun or practice. I put Hogue or Pachmehr grips on my J frames.

The model 38 J frame has an aluminum alloy frame, steel cylinder and barrel. Same as the 442, I put softer grips on it not only for comfort but for a somewhat larger grip.

MAYBE we will hear back from him.
 
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Lightest is 342ti. Early models weighed in at 10oz. Alloy frame with titanium cylinder.

The Centennial series has the best trigger pull to me. Smooth & no exposed hammer to snag.

Good luck finding one that is used and cheap (and not beaten to death).
 
I want the new Cadillac CT5-V myself!!!!

The regular CT will be in dealers soon.
The 5V's summer/fall.
Im pretty close to going that one over the Benz. Hearing way too much negative about the Benz's of late.

Caddy is 360 HP 405 pound torque- I'll go AWD. Thats the 5V version 6. The regular "CT" only, with a six is 335/405.

Two new colors this year- (shown).

And to answer the OP- a 38 J frame in the console.
 

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A word or six or eight about (D.A.) trigger pulls:

Those of K, L, or N (medium, larger, humongous) frames can be anything you want them to be via the installation of a Miculek Spring kit ($20-$30).

I suspect those of J (small) frames can likewise be altered with a spring kit--about which I know next to nothing. If either Wilson Combat or Miculek supplies such, you can't go wrong with either. I doubt you can go wrong with anybody's.

Bottom Line: Don't fret about trigger pulls, you can tend to those after you decide on a gun.

Ralph Tremaine
 
I installed the Mcarbo spring kit in my 340 M&P, along with "stoning" most of the sharp edges of the rebound slide, hammer spring strut, and maybe a few other bits. Anything sharp that was rubbing against the frame. I had a couple hundred rounds through it before the work and not a Huge difference, but noticeable.

My (still unfired) 640-3 is at S&W getting a P.C. trigger job and I'll compare them when it gets back to me.

My 43c has always seemed easy to fire. My 12yo is the main user of it and he happily shoots 50rds every time we go to the range. I assume all the action parts are the same but it has always felt easy to pull the trigger and get tight groups. Possibly just the cap gun - like recoil from .22lr.
 
Real Expert

Yeah, wonder if it will be another 10 years before we see a reply to this thread?
Question sounds fishy to me too. Here is my EXPERT opinion since OP is asking for a REAL expert instead of one of you guys:
Get an Airweight 38 and take it to the gunsmith for a "trigger job"!
I recommend airweight 38's for small, petite women...
but if you want to kill a real man, I prefer a 44.
No charge this first time. Any further expert advice will require that you register an account with me, (very reasonable). Use coupon code GIMME$$.
Glad to help. No thanks necessary. :-)

Best Regards,
BrianD
 
They aren't exactly light, but the K-38s/Model 14s will have the nicest trigger pulls, IMO. These were target guns (though some LEOs carried them for sure).

Once you get down into the alloy framed guns, I don't think that "light trigger pull" was really emphasized. All things being equal, reliability stems from a heavy trigger pull and these are defensive tools with a potential bad guy/critter on the other side of the muzzle, not range toys. They usually have a heavy return spring too vs. a target gun to help get a quick follow up shot.

Buy the tool you need for the job, and if you need 2 tools buy 2. Don't buy one that compromises and makes both jobs harder.
 
Assuming you can use a k-frame-sized gun, get a used police model 10, 19, 64 or 66. Check the trigger. It should be smooth and relatively light due to the police armorer working on it. You could look for an older performance center gun or a Lipsey or Lew Horton gun.These are special runs that have modified actions. All have action work on the trigger that makes it smooth. The lightest trigger on a gun of mine is a former deputy sheriff's model 66. It is quite early in the run of 66s, but in great condition. The single action is wonderfully light and the double action is very smooth and relatively light compared to any other double action that I have.
 

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