I thought Liberty safes were supposed to be good?

[03hemi]

Not trying to ruffle anybody's feathers here, but I was under the impression Liberty safes were good. I was watching "Guns & Gear" and they had a segment were a rep from Cannon safe showed were anybody with a battery grinder could simply grind off the edges of a Liberty (and most other safes) and then simply pry the side off because of the way they're all welded together with the exception of the Cannon. Then he showed both of the safes filled with dynamite and set off, the Liberty was totally destroyed while the Cannon only buckled and stayed shut and locked without any seam damage! Very impressive I should say. Well, I know which safe I'd be getting if buying one, but to be honest, they can ALL be stolen. The only way to truly secure your guns is to have a hidden room that can't be detected from outside in my opinion.

 

[jlrhiner]

I think, going into it, everyone should understand that anything one man can build another can defeat. We've seen it time and again through history. Nothing is absolutely secure. And I agree about the hidden room.

 

[billwill]

I remember when stand-a-lone ATMs were first introduced years ago.

It was about an even score with ATMs drug down the road on a chain....and bubba's truck axle and rear end chained to the ATMs foundation. In other words if somebody wants something bad enough they will get it regardless.

 

[arjay]

That's why you need a good insurance policy along with a safe

 

[03hemi]

That's why you need a good insurance policy along with a safe

Unfortunately, money can't replace a lot of items.

 

[lhump1961]

My take on safes, at least the affordable ones, is that they will keep anyone out except those who are pros and come prepared. If you are targeted by someone who wants your stuff and knows how to do it then your stuff is gone.

My safe keeps my stuff safe from fire to some degree (pun), visitors, kids and the odd crackhead that might break in. If someone comes with power tool cutters, crowbars and dynamite then so be it. I don't live in a neighborhood that screams "diamonds and $$$" so it's not likely. Just keeping it out of the hands of the locals.

I have two safes and my bigger one is a Liberty. I know it's not Fort Knox and knew that when I bought it...but it will do what I need. It's too big to carry out so they will have to blow it!!

 

[NYlakesider]

Not trying to ruffle anybody's feathers here, but I was under the impression Liberty safes were good. I was watching "Guns & Gear" and they had a segment were a rep from Cannon safe showed were anybody with a battery grinder could simply grind off the edges of a Liberty (and most other safes) and then simply pry the side off because of the way they're all welded together with the exception of the Cannon. Then he showed both of the safes filled with dynamite and set off, the Liberty was totally destroyed while the Cannon only buckled and stayed shut and locked without any seam damage! Very impressive I should say. Well, I know which safe I'd be getting if buying one, but to be honest, they can ALL be stolen. The only way to truly secure your guns is to have a hidden room that can't be detected from outside in my opinion.

Any safe can be opened, the variable in that is TIME. The better, stronger, better bolted down the more time you are going to cost a thief. TIME is your friend not the crook. Also putting your safe (AKA Residential Security Cabinet) in a tight corner with little room to maneuver tools of any kind will help.

FWIW, I'm a long time welder (now retired) and have cut modified and mutilated a bunch of steel in my carrier, and what you said about a battery grinder will work to get in most cases. The bigger and thicker walls you got the better your chances of keeping your goodies.

The thief had better bring a lot of batteries/ cutting disks and a good lunch cause he is going to be there a long time with a good safe..

 

[lhump1961]

Unfortunately, money can't replace a lot of items.

I would miss the family photo albums more than a gun. Guns can always be replaced...or close enough. They're just things at the end of the day and they won't remember me.

 

[chief38]

Safes (ANY BRAND or ANY PRICE) are made from steel. ANY STEEL can be cut through with an Angle Grinder, a Sawzall, or similar like a sharp knife through a block of Cheese. I've got some pretty powerful Angle Grinders and cutting wheels that will go through really thick steel - the only question is are thieves, junkies, burglars going to have the brains, patience, time, balls and know-how to use them correctly or at all to get into your safe? Most likely, if a burglar can't readily open up a safe, he is probably just going to forget about it - unless he knows that person is away fro an extended amount of time. DO NOT post on Social Media sites - your vacation plans, travel times or destinations!! It's like an invitation for trouble these days!

That is WHY it is a GOOD IDEA to keep your safe in a locked and alarmed closet (separate keypad and code) and keep it out of sight of repair men, delivery men, visitors, guests, etc. That is also why I think the fancy paint jobs and pin striping is a big waste of money - since a proper safe will be securely bolted down and alarmed in an out of sight location. That is why I constantly advise guys here on this forum to look at used Jewelry safes which are ugly (as compared to a "gun safe") but much much stronger and much harder for a burglar to break, cut or pry. They carry a much better UL Burglar Rating also!

There is NO SUCH THING as a Burglar Proof safe - it's just that the better ones take longer and a more concerted effort to crack opened. If Bank Vaults can be broken into - a pro will get into any of our gun safe with ease. The thing is that MOST Pro's will not really be out to target home owners as opposed to highly rewarding targets. Most of us are "small potatoes" compared to large estates, banks, jewelry stores, etc.

The job of a good gun safe is to keep kids and unwanted visitors out, afford some level of fire protection, and to give the owner piece of mind. If anyone here os looking for a 100% break-in proof safe - - you will have to ask Fort Knox Kentucky if they have extra space for your firearms collection! And for Pete's sake....... BOLT 'EM DOWN, ALARM 'EM, AND KEEP THEM OUT OF SIGHT! That is your BEST protection against unwanted entry!

 

[Muss Muggins]

Like Gramma Muggins used to say, "Mechanical Engineers make weapons, Civil Engineers make targets . . . "

 

[dsink]

Remember, what is in your safe is yours and you would not want to scratch it. A thief could care less, its not his stuff so he will push the safe over and beat, bang, grind or cut on it in a heart beat.

I worked for a company and broke into safes for a living in banks. Everything from the little safe at the tellers window to the main vault in a bank.

Make sure to bolt your safe down real good. The 2 weakest/thinnest places on a safe is the back and bottom. Why, because every safe is made to be set on the floor and pushed against a wall. All the best safe made is going to do is slow someone down. The better the safe the more it will slow them down and thats IF they came prepared to get in to it. Odds are they will just smash and grab and not fool with it.

 

[jag312]

What about adding a good burglar alarm system? That limits the time the thief has before the Sheriff's Deputy drives up to my house. I have also heard about sonic burglar deterrents that I can add to my gun room.

 

[steelslaver]

I have visible cameras mounted on the approaches to my house and the hard drive setup that record from them would be difficult to remove as are my safes. Seeing the cameras will give most thieves pause and knowing they are on camera and having to bust a safe would hopefully make most pick another target.

 

[6518John]

Any safe can be opened, the variable in that is TIME. The better, stronger, better bolted down the more time you are going to cost a thief. TIME is your friend not the crook. Also putting your safe (AKA Residential Security Cabinet) in a tight corner with little room to maneuver tools of any kind will help.

FWIW, I'm a long time welder (now retired) and have cut modified and mutilated a bunch of steel in my carrier, and what you said about a battery grinder will work to get in most cases. The bigger and thicker walls you got the better your chances of keeping your goodies.

The thief had better bring a lot of batteries/ cutting disks and a good lunch cause he is going to be there a long time with a good safe..

All the points made in this post outline the major theft deterrent that most safes provide--it takes a certain measure of WORK to get into them. "Work" is the filthiest word in the English language to a thief and is to be avoided at all costs. I would wager that 99% plus of those trying to break into a gun safe are too lazy, stupid and worthless to even pack a lunch, much less need one to burn up a bunch of grinding wheels. All that effort would require forethought and some planning. That sounds strangely similar to "work." Or is close enough kin to be avoided too.

There are always exceptions to any rule, but I don't think Ocean's 11 have much interest in gunsafes.

 

[Lee's Landing Billy]

I think, going into it, everyone should understand that anything one man can build another can defeat. We've seen it time and again through history. Nothing is absolutely secure. And I agree about the hidden room.

Fixed fortifications are monuments to man's stupidity. Patton??

 

[gman51]

I fell for the internet hype that big box store safes were junk and the safe companies make big profits repairing or replacing the locking systems. So I paid 3x more for an American Security safe thinking I was buying real quality safe.
Well how about that, the electronic keypad failed in about three years and it cost me $350 to have a combination lock installed. For just under $400 I could have bought a big box store safe the same size as what I bought.

Oh what about the warranty though for the name brand safe? Well contrary to what the flier on the safe in the store makes the buyer think, the safe only has a one year warranty on the locking mechanisms. The safe itself has a lifetime warranty, but read carefully, that provides replacement due to fire or theft. So the safe defects are only warranted for one year. Guess what, the big box stores often have a one year warranty also.
I read that a cheap safe like the big box stores often sell have drywall between the wall layers of steel. Guess what I could see between the walls of my expensive AS? Yep drywall just laying loose in there. How did I see that since I am not superman? Well when I took the plugs out of the bottom of the safe to anchor bolt the safe to the floor I could see the drywall.
If I ever buy another safe, which I don't think I will need one, it will be the best and biggest size to fit my needs and space that a big box store has available. It will not have an electronic lock that often costs on average $150 more than getting the safe with a standard combination lock. That's what it cost me anyway.

Best to inspect any safe for thick gage steel, tight fitting door and seals, and a quality brand combination lock. Definitely anchor it down from inside the safe. If you rolled the safe into the house it can be rolled out the same way it came in if it isn't anchored down from inside the safe.

 

[Duke44]

Maybe I'm over thinking the test of strength but I doubt a criminal would break into a safe, fill it with dynamite, seal it back up, detonate it and then expect to retrieve valuable items from inside.

 

[4506517]

Okay, EVERY time we have threads like this I always think the same thing.....

In all my years in law enforcement, I have NEVER seen a thief take the time or come prepared to defeat a safe (residential security container, whatever). I always laugh when someone has "seen" a "conclusive test" that shows Brand A is waaaaaaaay better than Brand B.

Remember......they are trying to SELL you something. Keep that in mind. In all the breaking and enterings I've ever worked, speed is the one thing that seems to take precedence. In and out, grab the most expensive stuff you can, as quick as you can.

As many threads as I've seen here about "I stash guns in 'tactical' spots around the house" please remember that is where an experienced burglar looks. "Tactical stash spots" aren't as sneaking as you think they are. The last thing a good thief wants is to have to work to get anything.

Obviously, buy a quality product. However, to seriously base your purchase decision around whether a safe can be entered with an angle grinder or blown apart with dynamite, is, well, quite foolish.

Take the advice given here on MULTIPLE threads. Bolt it down, mount it in an area of limited accessibility, don't advertise, and buy a quality unit.

Save the safe cracking and dynamiting of safes to the movies......they do a much better job of it.

 

[ky wonder]

I don't want to bust your bubble but I own a cannon, and with a hand held grinder it would not take long to defeat it just open up the side pull out the fireboard (drywall) and reach inside

 

[kthom]

Not trying to ruffle anybody's feathers here, but I was under the impression Liberty safes were good. I was watching "Guns & Gear" and they had a segment were a rep from Cannon safe showed were anybody with a battery grinder could simply grind off the edges of a Liberty (and most other safes) and then simply pry the side off because of the way they're all welded together with the exception of the Cannon. Then he showed both of the safes filled with dynamite and set off, the Liberty was totally destroyed while the Cannon only buckled and stayed shut and locked without any seam damage! Very impressive I should say. Well, I know which safe I'd be getting if buying one, but to be honest, they can ALL be stolen. The only way to truly secure your guns is to have a hidden room that can't be detected from outside in my opinion.

SO, they opened both safes in the normal way, put some explosives inside, and touched the stuff off. I can't help but wonder why if any boogler could open the safe in the first place, why would he then put explosive inside, close it, and then blow it!!

Yeah, most gun "safes" are just locking storage containers, and some are better than others. With the time and tools, anybody can get in them sooner or later. If your storage container is solidly secured to the floor and wall, it may be skint up when you get home, but it's likely to still be there unless you were gone for a long time and the neighbors ain't payin' attention. Now just about any serious house fire will ruin what you've got inside the "safes" that most of us can afford and install in our homes. Not all, of course, but most!