I want to learn to shoot a revolver

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gabstok

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Hello gentlemen of the revolver community,

Admin, if there is a more appropriate forum, please relocate.

I present my current situation for discussion, feedback and sage advice.

BLUF:
I want to learn to shoot a revolver and I want to learn the right way. My focus will be developing gun handling, shooting, reloading skills, etc for a defensive situation. I plan to purchase a new gun to learn with and am looking for recommendations.

Amplifying information:

I'm an experienced semi auto shooter of 25+ years. I've owned 20+ different semi auto pistols over the years but now only have Glocks (all 9mm). I shoot them regularly at my local range. I appreciate Glocks due to their reliability, consistency, compatibility and aftermarket support. My primary CCW is a Glock 19.

I've taken many training courses over the years and would say I'm a step or two better than the average shooter.

I am primarily a defensive shooter. My training focuses on defensive skills and scenarios. I do not hunt and do not compete.

I have occasionally shot revolvers in the past. My performance is consistently horrendous and not good enough to warrant a revolver for defensive purposes. This I plan to fix.

Budget is not a concern. I can easily accept a high price up front if I have reason to believe that it's the right choice for me.

This purchase will not need to be used for home defense. I have many other options that fill this role.

Over time, once I've developed my revolver skills, I'd consider buying a smaller revolver as a CCW option.

I'm a bigger guy, with large hands. I consider Smith J Frames and Ruger LCRs and SP-101s too small for extended range sessions and training. Whatever I end up with, I'd probably put larger rubber Hogue grips on.

I reload 9mm (not as much lately due to prices) and would probably eventually want to reload whatever cartridge I shoot in the revolver.

Questions?

What brand/model? I'm familiar with the market and what's available. I've looked closely at Rugers, S&Ws and Kimbers. Initially, I think the GP100s and the 686s are considerations. The Kimber's look very nice, but I think that their smaller size might be less than ideal.

What caliber? I see a handful of 9mm revolvers out there. 9mm is relatively cheap and I have lots of it. On the other hand revolvers are known for the capability of the 357 cartridge and the flexibly to shoot 38 Spec. I do understand that 9mm revolvers require moon clips and am ok with that if that's where I end up.

What capacity? 6 or 7? Yes, more is better, but… Does learning on a 7-shot then carrying a 6-shot set you up for failure? Also, I've seen some discussion about the Ruger GP100 7-shots having issues.

Training? What do you recommend as far as courses/trainers/drills to help me become a proficient defensive revolver shooter?

Thank you for taking the time to read this. What do you think?
 
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My primary carry is a J-Frame, a 640-1, magnum frame, .357 capable with an enclosed hammer. My 'big' CCW is a 3" 686+ (7 rnd).
I like the .38/357 platform for its versatility, I can shoot/train with wimpy .38s and carry what's appropriate for the venue.

Personally I'd recommend a 3" or 4" 686 or 686+, there's no real difference learning the platform, although I often fire 5 (I'm a J-Frame guy) and then go "oh yeah I got 2 more".

My daughter shoots primarily semis, but I've been bringing her into the revolver world. Yesterday we practiced handling, got some speed loaders and snap caps, practiced proper handling, loading and extracting...

Learning to shoot a double action revolver will improve your semi shooting!
 
I would recommend an S&W 929 (9mm) or 627 (38/357). These are 8 shot N frames, which would be ideal for someone with medium to large hands. I have both, and shoot them a lot, as they are my favorite ones out of many.

They both use moon clips, and the 627 can be used with individual rounds or speedloaders as well. The 5" 627 is my favorite of all. I mostly shoot 38 Short Colt with 160 gr. round nose bullets for matches. The round nose bullets and short brass facilitate very fast reloads. The 38 SC is essentially a rimmed 9mm. It's the same length and case capacity as a 9.

If you would tell us your general location, there might be someone not too far away that could help you.
 
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This may sound silly to some, and I'm sure the same benefit can be accomplished in other ways, but this was a bit of "training" that improved my revolver shooting tremendously;

I have a .44 Magnum Ruger Redhawk. The trigger is atrocious. I had heard that you can smooth out a trigger just by dry firing it, over and over and over.... So I thought.. might as well try it. I got the gun cheap, I doubt I can hurt it.

So I would just point it at whatever movie I was watching and dry fire it until my hand/arm was rubber, and swapped hands. Between the weight, and the heavy trigger, the muscle development translated into a huge improvement in my J-Frame shooting.

Never did smooth out that trigger.
 
I have a few .38/.357 S&W's but I think the best way to learn revolver trigger control is to get a good .22 DA model 17 or 617 and shoot many 1000's of rounds. The trigger is almost the same as any .38/.357 and it's much cheaper to shoot a lot. I've tried to get semi-auto shooters to use my revolvers but most don't have the strength in their trigger finger to pull the trigger smoothly. I've been shooting DA revolvers for about 40 years, mostly speed shooting sports and my trigger finger is quite strong, it's very easy for me to pull DA smoothly.

Here is one of my 617's and others:
 

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gabstok said:
Hello gentlemen of the revolver community.

BLUF:
I want to learn to shoot a revolver and I want to learn the right way.


Thank you for taking the time to read this. What do you think?
Click to expand...


Well, since you're asking....
Everyone has their idea of what "the right way" entails.
My opinion is classic Bullseye pistol. It is the purest form of pistol marksmanship. Everything else is based off of the fundamentals and discipline you learn from Bullseye.
In the "Old Days" of the revolver as the police sidearm, every respectable department had a pistol team that competed.

Here's a Pre-War video of the training facility for the old LASD:
RARE - LASD Pistol Team Exhibition, Historic, 1936, Color enhanced - YouTube
Lots of stuff packed in to this film, from wild stunts to serious revolver shooting.

These days, we are lucky that the Civilian Marksmanship Program has added "Revolver" to their Distinguished competition schedule.
Through the CMP you can shoot in matches and attend small arms firing school.
The CMP also publishes a comprehensive list of approved revolvers. Classic Colts and Smith & Wessons figure high up on the list of preferred choices. The rules stipulate strict adherence to stock "as issued" specifications. No trick modifications! You learn through hard work, not shortcuts.

Distinguished Badge Program - Civilian Marksmanship Program

Previously, I posted this thread that contains a link to a fantastic film about pistol shooting featuring US Marine and Olympic Gold Medalist Bill MacMillan:
How to REALLY shoot a Pistol! (Film)
There's some revolver tips in there that are really worth seeing.

Anyhow, for what it's worth, that's just my personal idea of "the right way" given today's choices.
 
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I bought a 4 inch 617 to simulate my 4 inch 686. Much cheaper to shoot. And nothing is more fun than plinking with a .22 once the serious shooting is done. So I concur with the advice to start with a 617.

I later did the same thing buying a 43c to simulate my center fire J frames.
 
Everyone needs a nice quality .22 and a model 617 is a good one. If you feel you need more than a .22, then something along the lines of a 686 or Ruger GP-100 are both solid choices.
 
I've competed in IDPA for years with revolvers. I have a bias towards K & L frames with the firing pin on the hammer. The 15/67 4" is hard to beat. If you don't mind a little more weight the 66 4" works great. The L frame 686 4" is a tad heavier but will dampen .38+P and .357 mag rounds better than a 66. Consider a S&W Mod 18 (.22LR) as a training tool as you can learn a bunch from one of these. Yes these will need to be bought used so read up on how to check one out here on the forum.

If the revo doesn't already have a S&W .312 smooth trigger I install one. Most of your shooting will be double action. Also installed will be a ribbed mainspring kit (Brownell's) with the rebound spring that is just one step lighter than factory. You do not want a target hammer; the standard one is fine. Do not lighten the mainspring on a Mod 18. Lots of little things in the action that might need minor deburr. If one doesn't know ones way around a S&W real well it will be best to pay a good revolversmith to do the work for you. Revolver shooters normally only run Federal primers for 100% reliability.

For grips I like the wood Miculek grip.

Next will come a good holster. Kydex works if you don't mind its tendency to be a little rough on the gun's finish.

For speed loaders, I like the Jet for pure speed and sureness.

The typical new cop doesn't know diddly about a revolver. They haven't been taught at the academy in over 20 years. An older retired one with considerable PPC and perhaps heavy revolver instructor experience might. They are getting scarce.

I've rubbed elbows will Jerry Miculek as well as some of the other IDPA national revolver champs. It's been a fun adventure and hope it will be for you too.
 
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A heavier gun but my favorite is the JM 625, moonclip 45 Auto. This is my favorite to shoot among my other revolvers and SA's. Have been shooting IDPA with it since 2004 and it has thousands of rounds through it.
I also use it to carry depending on season of the year and how I will be dressed. I have kept the internals stock so it eats anything, mostly my reloads with any brand primer is no problem.
It came with the JM grips as mentioned up thread but not that big of a fan. When I started carrying it for defensr I felt the grip stuck out too far to conceal properly. Bought a pair of Hogue Bantams for it and ended up leaving them on for competition also. They just seem to fit my hand better.
Not a lot of revolver shooters in IDPA but if you can find a club that shoots ICORE go check it out you should see some good revolver shooters and get to watch them handle their guns. If you do go to some competition ask and I am sure most will be happy to give advice and their opinions about their guns. Jim.
 
Have been shooting revolvers since 1980. Always shot them single-action. That is how it was taught to me. Then, I bought a S&W 18. Simple fact was, I wanted a revolver that I could afford to shoot a lot. Ended up with a revolver that was not only cheap to shoot, but it also was remarkably accurate ... had a wonderful single-action trigger pull ... and best of all, the double-action was excellent. I figured out some of what I needed to know about double-action shooting simply by shooting a lot of rounds through that gorgeous revolver. Over time, I got to where I could keep all my shots inside of two inches firing from 25 yds. It took time. I consider it one of the most important steps I've ever made in shooting handguns in general and revolvers in particular. My scores shooting a Glock-22 improved. I consider this the result of my learning to correctly shoot a double-action revolver. Single-action shooting was also enhanced. Get yourself a quality .22 LR revolver. I'd look for a S&W K-frame .22 LR handgun w/ a four or six inch barrel. Shoot it a lot. Keep it clean. It'll be an outstanding means of your learning all about double-action revolver shooting. Sincerely. bruce.
 
OP wow a member for 11 years and only your second post !
The secret - just like shooting a pistol - is front sight focus and trigger pull. Reading your post I suspect you do ok with that with a semi automatic. Many others above have given the same advice I would and done so very professionally. Start with a .22 for range work. When you pick your center fire revolver get snap caps for it and practice practice practice your trigger pull. That is what you need to master vs your Glocks / semi automatics as I'm sure you feel the difference. Mastering the trigger pull and focusing on the front sight will give you the accuracy you seek. I would also second an L frame revolver for the recoil mitigation given by the weight over a k frame but you will do just as well with a k frame. Like many here I would seek an older S&W as first choice.
They are out there, but you need to work to find a revolver competent dinosaur cop who retired 25-30 years ago to go to the range with. Clue … many of them lurk on here and at gun clubs and ranges. Best of luck and good move seeking advice here. As noted, posting your location might assist in someone reaching out to you.
 
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First revolver I'd suggest a 6617 as mentioned a bunch of times already. It's cheap to load with .22s. Sportsman's Warehouse has them in stock.

I'd also suggest a 686. I like being able to shoot .357 for defense but shoot 1000s of .38s for practice.

If you want to start with a .38 you can't go wrong with an old Model 10 Smith & Wesson. They have great triggers and won't need any work to give you years of use.
 
IMHO the way to learn is to get yourself a vintage Model 15 Revolver from the 1960's, 70's or 80's that is in good shape. They are one of the best (if not THE best) 38 Special Revolver S&W ever produced as a general purpose Revolver. If you are not privy on how to and what to look for while checking one out, bring someone with you who is - that is essential since you are buying a used product that is decades old, but many have survived just fine and are actually better than new ones.

I would think that the person to learn from would be a retired shooting team member of a Police Dept. or Fed. L/E who is willing to teach you. While there are video's and books on this, there is nothing like hands on training. Once in a while you see an old timer shooting a Revolver at a Range. If he is a superb shooter, (look at his targets) you can approach him and ask if he would be willing to help you learn. Over the years, I have been asked by others and I have been willing to teach. In fact I am doing that right now with several people. I have found people who have little to no experience with Revolvers learn faster and better than others who have some experience but have developed bad Revolver shooting habits. Learn right the first time - from someone who truly knows what they are doing.
 
gabstok said:
…I want to learn to shoot a revolver …


What do you think?…
Click to expand...

I think that is an admirable goal! Where do you live? If close by, I have several revolvers I could loan you.

I do not consider the 22 a good candidate for a serious beginner. You already know how to fire a handgun and are used to recoil. Start with a good 38 S&W Special revolver or maybe a 45 ACP revolver. Neither have appreciable recoil and both have excellent competition records.

I always recommend 6 shooters.

Brand? S&W naturally. They have a decent action from the box and can be slicked up easily. Very few gunsmiths can slick up the other brands. Besides, S&W is the standard by which all others are judged.

Try a variety of stocks until you find what is right for your hand and style of shooting.

Good luck.

Kevin
 
Started my career in '68 when we all carried revolvers. I'd recommend a S&W K Frame, 4" .357 as a platform. Do lots of dry fire (w/snap caps) before going to the range to get used to the trigger. My favorite range gun is a 1973 4" Model 66. Good luck & enjoy.
 
Make sure that the grips fit your hand.
When you buy one practice every day, with snap caps in a revolver, tracing wall lines up & down, then across a ceiling. Do not fire just track the sights keeping them on the seam.
With snap caps in, work on feeling the DA pull. You want your finger to learn how far it moves before it breaks. I like to speed until I am close then slow a bit as I work on that junction.
Everyone wobbles on a target. Experts make the wobble smaller. I was taught to make my wobble a circle and only pull the trigger on an up cycle never a down.
Enjoy the process. It is something you want to do so have fun.
 
All good advice from the members here. I just want to add a few things. First the grip angel is going to be different than what you have been accustomed to. The trigger pull is to be mastered on the revolver to become proficient. Take a look at Grant Cunningham and Revolverguy .com I have a similar history, shot Glocks, took a lot of classes, now carry revolvers. I am smaller so I carry, Colt King Cobra(3"), 686+(2.5"),19-4 (2.5),10-8(3"). Good luck in your journey.
 
I bought my wife a pair of Smith revolvers, A model 17 and a Model 19, both in 6 inch.

That gave her a 22 to learn on and a 38/357 to get serious with. The 22 is an advantage if you do not reload. The K frame is more than adequate for hot 38 specials. It is not optimum for high velocity light bullet magnum loads.

She has gone on now but I still have the two revolvers. I think they were an excellent choice, although I might choose 4" barrels over 6"

Smith&Wesson engineers have included the springs that are optimum for the revolvers, Do not mess with them until you are thoroughly familiar with what you have.

The pre lock S&W K frames are excellent quality revolvers and will give great service on the target range, which is where you will learn to shoot a revolver.
 
Lots of good advice here. The only thing I have not seen (may have missed it) is your grip on a revolver needs to be different than on a semi. If you get your thumb out in front of the cylinder,you will probably not do THAT again! I also agree you should look at K frames or larger. Good luck! Let us know what you decide and why.
 
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I'm with StrawHat as far as .22s as starter revolvers. I own and shoot J and K frame rimfires but they aren't needed in the hands of an experienced shooter. As a primarily defensive shooter I would not spend any time on single action shooting.

I too have large hands. With proper grips you can shoot all of the Smiths well, Js included. I would suggest a K or L frame with a 4" barrel in .38 special or .357 using .38s to start.

There is no trigger reset on a DA revolver. Trigger must go all the way forward every time. Rolling the trigger is a good description for multiple shot strings. The 'quarter' drill is a great dry fire skill builder: When you can lay a quarter on the flat in front of the rear sight and dry fire 6 times without losing the quarter you're ready for the range.

Good luck.
 
Started in '73 with a mod.10. Well used with a fabulous action. Shot on the pistol team and did pretty good. The department noticed and when I made sergeant sent me to the FBI firearms instructors school. Holy cow, that's where I really learned to shoot. Way different than NRA target stuff.

A good double action shooter (both hands) can shoot anything. Stay away from single action. Learn to stage the trigger. Count your rounds and use the count to set the pace depending on time and distance. Dry fire until your finger bleeds then put on a band aid and do some more. OK, maybe not that but at least switch hands.

Fifty years ago I'd say start with a 4" model 10 or 19. But 148 gr. reloads were $2. then. So that advice to seek out an older .22 is right on. Since you're willing to spend the money get your advanced training in the revolver course at Gunsite Ranch in AZ.

The Performance Center 3" model 19 would be a pretty handy gun to have around for a combat course.
 
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I learned to shoot a revolver double action with a S&W model 28 in the mid 70's. double action is the only way to shoot a double action revolver if used for defense. Learning to shoot double action required a lot of dry fire and live fire. The .357 mag. revolver is a great choice. It is very versatile. Unfortunately ammo is somewhat scarce and expensive these days. I wouldn't get a 9mm revolver since your autos do the job just fine with that cartridge. The .357 mag. is a far superior cartridge. Recently, I picked up a 4" S&W model 18, that is in .22 LR caliber. I qualify every few months with an auto and revolver and found that my revolver skills were starting to tarnish. The model 18 has allowed me to brush up on my double action skills inexpensively and is a good training gun for the model 19 that I use to qualify. You probably would be happier with an N frame, like a model 28, although the cylinder weight is harder to control than the lighter weight of an L or K frame as the bigger mass creates more movement as the cylinder turns. Hope I didn't confuse the issue.
 
A pre lock 586/686 is hard to beat for a good all around revolver. If you don't mind a little more weight get a pre lock 27/28 and you will be set. The vintage guns are close to the same price as the new ones and most folks will tell you they are better. I learned to shoot a revolver from shooting PPC matches and practicing the Match 5 portion of the match. if you can break 550 out of 600 you are doing pretty well
 
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