i want to polish the barrel and chamber on my 4506 but what should i use? do i really need a dremel for it? can i use sandpaper? i just want to get the barrel and chamber nice and shiny. you guys have any pics of some similar guns with polished parts?
i want to polish barrel on my gun. what should i use?
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i want to polish the barrel and chamber on my 4506 but what should i use? do i really need a dremel for it? can i use sandpaper? i just want to get the barrel and chamber nice and shiny. you guys have any pics of some similar guns with polished parts?
Out West
Member
45- I've been on a small barrel hood and muzzle polishing jag lately. I used Mother's Mag polish and a dremil with polishing wheel with good results. While I am polishing I hit the ramp, but have not messed with the chamber. Had not thought of doing the chamber, but it would be nice to knock that out too. As with most things, there is always more than one way to get 'er done. But the dremil makes short work of the project.
Good luck with yours!
Out West
Good luck with yours!
Out West
nick_mur
Member
45..I use the same setup as Out-West listed...MothersMag polish (Wal-Mart $3.98/"tub") and a dremel with a polishing wheel. I did the feedramp on my 4006 last weekend and liked it so much that I actually polished the entire barrell and guide rod this afternoon.....very nice...
I would opt to buy a dremel if you didn't have one...they come in handy for all kinds of things.
Nick
I would opt to buy a dremel if you didn't have one...they come in handy for all kinds of things.
Nick
Erich
Member
How about a bench grinder?
Bullitholz
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600 grit 3M wet or dry paper(the good stuff) lubed with light oil. Get ready as the stainless is HARD on these and it takes a LOT of work to get the lines out. Then jewelers rouge on a felt wheel, a dremel really makes this part an easy 5 minute job. Of you can do the Mothers mag polish thing with a soft rag and a lot of elbow grease.
If I were going with the latter route I would work up the sandpaper grit ladder first to make the final hand polishing easier. For example, start with 400, then 600 then 800 and then 1000 or 1200 grit....then the compound. Work through each until all of the scratches from the previous grit have been removed, working down to a finer finish with each one.
This not hard but it does take time to do.
Here's my 4506:
If I were going with the latter route I would work up the sandpaper grit ladder first to make the final hand polishing easier. For example, start with 400, then 600 then 800 and then 1000 or 1200 grit....then the compound. Work through each until all of the scratches from the previous grit have been removed, working down to a finer finish with each one.
This not hard but it does take time to do.
Here's my 4506:
awaiting my barrel return from Todd check out his website also having it engraved
$30 to polish
http://customizedcreationz.com/firearms/smithandwessonservices.html
$30 to polish
http://customizedcreationz.com/firearms/smithandwessonservices.html
It's really pretty simple. If your looking for a shine use mothers mag and wheel polish (walmart). If you want a mirror finish use some fine and superfine sandpaper and then go over it with a polishing dremel and some mothers mag and wheel polish.
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[/IMG]Mickstix
Member
Great job on the slide!! It amazes me how you guys can get that mirror finish on those stainless slides, barrels, and frames..
Do you use a back and forth motion with the sandpaper, or small circles?? (like with your thumb in a rag)?? How many grits of wet/dry do ya need to go through to get that mirror?? Thanks, Mick
Do you use a back and forth motion with the sandpaper, or small circles?? (like with your thumb in a rag)?? How many grits of wet/dry do ya need to go through to get that mirror?? Thanks, Mick
I can't speak for anyone else here....but I used a regular hand sander on the flats and wet black sandpaper. I used the two finest grains I could get at Lowe's. It doesn't really matter which direction you sand...but I'd usually end each session sanding lengthwise with the grain. After sanding for a while I'd stop and polish with some "Mothers" to see my progress.
It does take time but it's an interesting project.
After a while of owning the Inox I started to hate the polymer coated parts on what I consider one of the nicest looking pistols made. I replaced all the coated parts and everything just snowballed from there.
I followed up with some gun wax to repel fingerprints and ended up selling her....after a face lift and trigger job it was one of the finest pistols I've owned but became more of a show piece than a range gun. In retrospect it would have been much easier to have the slide hard chromed, but I thought it would blend with the frame better if only the sides of the slide were mirror finished.
Jerry
It does take time but it's an interesting project.
After a while of owning the Inox I started to hate the polymer coated parts on what I consider one of the nicest looking pistols made. I replaced all the coated parts and everything just snowballed from there.
I followed up with some gun wax to repel fingerprints and ended up selling her....after a face lift and trigger job it was one of the finest pistols I've owned but became more of a show piece than a range gun. In retrospect it would have been much easier to have the slide hard chromed, but I thought it would blend with the frame better if only the sides of the slide were mirror finished.
Jerry
customizedcreationz
Member
Mickstix
Member
No fair CC.. Your a professional!!
Mickstix
Member
shovelwrench
Member
Originally posted by JerryS1:
It's really pretty simple. If your looking for a shine use mothers mag and wheel polish (walmart). If you want a mirror finish use some fine and superfine sandpaper and then go over it with a polishing dremel and some mothers mag and wheel polish.
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Originally posted by Bullitholz:
600 grit 3M wet or dry paper(the good stuff) lubed with light oil. Get ready as the stainless is HARD on these and it takes a LOT of work to get the lines out. Then jewelers rouge on a felt wheel, a dremel really makes this part an easy 5 minute job. Of you can do the Mothers mag polish thing with a soft rag and a lot of elbow grease.
If I were going with the latter route I would work up the sandpaper grit ladder first to make the final hand polishing easier. For example, start with 400, then 600 then 800 and then 1000 or 1200 grit....then the compound. Work through each until all of the scratches from the previous grit have been removed, working down to a finer finish with each one.
This not hard but it does take time to do.
Here's my 4506:
These guys have the right idea!!!!
Even if its not stainless, and you take good care, polished steel in the white will last, oiled.
Originally posted by customizedcreationz:
THIS GUY, I've heard terrible things about. Never returned, but, payed for parts. Is the biggest, but the list goes on and on.
I used a small square electric sander....I started on a few small things and worked my way up. I also had the piece of mind in knowing that I could have it refinished if I didn't like the outcome.
The real downside is how it attracts fingerprints so much easier. Gun wax helped a bit. I'm not sure if I'd do it again....but maybe on a show piece or a beat up stainless pistol.
Jerry
The real downside is how it attracts fingerprints so much easier. Gun wax helped a bit. I'm not sure if I'd do it again....but maybe on a show piece or a beat up stainless pistol.
Jerry
customizedcreationz
Member
It will show finger prints, but it wipes easily and its alot easier to clean then the original finishes usually are.
Blasphemous I know ,but here is an XD with controls done.
You can accomplish a look very similar at home with the right materials and the first and most important tool is a respirator. You HAVE to have one of those or you ll be breathing in fine dust and metal. Other then that, just getting the right tools and practicing will net you some favorable results.
If I can help anyone that wants to try this at home just shoot me an email.
Todd
Blasphemous I know ,but here is an XD with controls done.
You can accomplish a look very similar at home with the right materials and the first and most important tool is a respirator. You HAVE to have one of those or you ll be breathing in fine dust and metal. Other then that, just getting the right tools and practicing will net you some favorable results.
If I can help anyone that wants to try this at home just shoot me an email.
Todd
Bullitholz
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I personally think the best finish a gun can have is matte bead-blasted stainless, just what most of the third gen smith wear.
It's easy to "bring back" to a factory new look should you need to do it and it doesn't show fingerprints at all. Pretty hard to beat really. Oh and don't forget, the guns don't rust either.
It's easy to "bring back" to a factory new look should you need to do it and it doesn't show fingerprints at all. Pretty hard to beat really. Oh and don't forget, the guns don't rust either.
customizedcreationz
Member
Just make sure when you use a media, you use a really fine media when doing the blasting. Too gritty of a media and every time you touch the gun you ll leave dirt in the pores of the texture. Pain in the butt to clean out. But it is a quick fix when you damage it, and you can also quick fix a polished surface with Mothers Mag Polish and some elbow grease as well.
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