Id Help. Inherited A S&W 32-20 CTG??

[Slaptacular]

I inherited this pistol some years ago. I found some very expensive 32-20 ammo and shot it a few times, however, it has spent the last 15 years just oiled and sitting in the back of a safe.

I would like to know more about it.

My best research thru this site tells me that it is a K-frame 32.20 hand ejector 5-screw with a pinned barrel made sometime prior to WWII.

Can someone tell me what the "CTG" means after the "32-20" on the right side of the barrel?

Also, anything else you might know about these pistols would be welcomed.

As you can see, it is in poor condition and I have just tried to arrest the corrosion as best I can in an effort to preserve it..Not sure if it is even worth anything, but it is an old pistol worth trying to save..

Thank you!

 

[Slaptacular]

I inherited this pistol some years ago. I found some very expensive 32-20 ammo and shot it a few times, however, it has spent the last 15 years just oiled and sitting in the back of a safe.

I would like to know more about it.

My best research thru this site tells me that it is a K-frame 32.20 hand ejector 5-screw with a pinned barrel made sometime prior to WWII.

Can someone tell me what the "CTG" means after the "32-20" on the right side of the barrel?

Also, anything else you might know about these pistols would be welcomed.

As you can see, it is in poor condition and I have just tried to arrest the corrosion as best I can in an effort to preserve it..Not sure if it is even worth anything, but it is an old pistol worth trying to save..

Thank you!

 

[john traveler]

You indeed have a K frame .32-20 Hand Ejector. That model is prized for it's combination of power and light recoil. If the bore is in good shape, it should shoot wonderfully.

The "CTG" is S&W abbreviation for "cartridge" and is used extensively on S&W barrel caliber markings.

 

[Bell Charter Oak Holsters]

Welcome to the FORUM!

Judging from the photos, you appear to have a 4th. Model 1905 Hand Ejector. The numbers reflected on the crane and yoke cut you show are assembly numbers and NOT the serial number, which is on the butt. If you provide the first 2 or 3 serial numbers we could give you an approximate date of production and offer a better assurance of the correct model. Coincidental with that, the .32-20 was serialed in a seperate range from the M&P .38 Special of the same period. Based upon the last patent date of the barrel rollmark of Dec 1914, the square butt configuration is less common than the typical round butt variations and will command a premium. The six inch barrel is the most common barrel configuration. The grips or stocks, do not appear to be correct. They may be S&W "Victory" model grips normally found on the 1905 4th. M&P which was produced during WWII. I believe checkered walnut without medallions would be correct for a c. 1920's model, which I'm guessing is what you have. The large knob and barrel cut out above the ejector rod is found on both the Models of 1902 and early variations of the Model 1905 and this feature is therefore distinguishing and somewhat more attractive to many collectors.

The condition in my judgement is "fine", or perhaps fair, but not "poor" as you stated. Condition grading varies depending upon which reference definition is utilized. Your apparently successful attempt at "arresting" active corrosion seems to have worked well, and the revolver appears to have a nice patina commensurate with it's age and level of use (or neglect) in areas where the oxidized finish has browned. This is simply inactive rust and should be stable. At this point you have an original finish and I would leave it alone except perhaps to keep it preserved with a good quality lubricant and preservative. I like Breakfree CLP personally, but there are many others. You might wish to have the gun lettered by historian Roy Jinks of S&W. The cost is still a bargain at $30 and it will provide date of shipment, who it was shipped to and the finish/configuration, grips, etc. It's a nice honest looking specimen....best of luck with it and I hope this info is helpful.

Edited to add:

It's worth a few bucks and is deserving of the cost for a correct pair of grips. Values are regionally subjective but I would estimate based upon auction sales that it could bring anywhere between $175 to as much as $300 + from a motivated buyer. Also, be careful not to use any ammunition with boxes marked "For Use With Rifle". Pre 1925 cylinders were not heat treated and should not be used with any hi velocity ammunition, so be careful since we don't know when your revolver was made, before or after '25.

 

[handejector]

Can someone tell me what the "CTG" means after the "32-20" on the right side of the barrel?

32-20 CARTRIDGE

 

[hsguy]

Slaptacular, welcome to the forum! The 32-20 is a great gun to shoot as mentioned above. If you reload the ammo cost becomes more reasonable. As most of these guns were working guns thay are hard to find in top condition. You may want to look for some "cowboy action" ammo as it usually fairly mild. Shoot and enjoy. John

 

[Slaptacular]

Originally posted by oldflatfoot:
Welcome to the FORUM!

If you provide the first 2 or 3 serial numbers we could give you an approximate date of production and offer a better assurance of the correct model.

Ahhhh!

I didn't even see that number there!

Serial number 1213**(six digits)..

What's that date it roughly?

I like the idea of having the S&W historian do a write up for me on it. I think I'll follow the tutorial here on that and post the results here fwiw...

 

[Slaptacular]

Oh and nice pistol Hsguy!!!

That one looks to have perfect bluing!! Beautiful pistol !

 

[opoefc]

Serial # 124908 was shipped in Feb. 1925, so your gun probably was a couple of years before that and correct grips would be checkered walnut grips with any medalions. These guns a hoot to shoot and very accurate. Use the new inexpensive Cowboy loads.

 

[Bell Charter Oak Holsters]

Originally posted by opoefc:
Serial # 124908 was shipped in Feb. 1925, so your gun probably was a couple of years before that and correct grips would be checkered walnut grips with any medalions.

Ed;

To avoid any confusion for this guy, did you mean to write "without any medallions"?