If you could own only one revolver... read OP

If you could own only one revolver, but you didn't need it to be a j-frame for concealment, what would you buy?

I'm asking because I am not a revolver guy, but I'd love to own one mostly just to have one. I have plenty of concealed carry semi-autos, and though I am not against carrying a revolver (I would), I don't necessarily need it to be concealable (or very concealable). I just want a cool revolver to make me a more well-rounded shooter because I've never owned one. I would like it to be practical enough for self-defense, and it should be carryable appendix in a pinch, but I wouldn't need to pocket carry it, per se.

Thanks in advance.

The old, "If you can only have ONE" survey!

I'm going to adopt a bit of Devil's advocate position on this one and assume that if I can only have ONE, that also means I won't likely have ready access to parts and springs and such - basically, the last gun I'll ever own for the eternal apocalypse!

To that end I think I'd opt for an 1873 Colt "pattern" revolver of one of the current, high quality Italian makers such as my favorite; Uberti. While the DA revolver has every advantage over the single action in terms of swing-out cylinder, reasonably fast reloads (with speed loaders), quick ejection of fired cases, and DA capability, they are also much more complex internally. In any sort of post-apocalypse scenario, stealth, hiding, going undetected are paramount, because the moment you end up in a firefight it won't matter a whole lot whether you started with a M25 or a Ruger Vaquero if you've failed to retain the advantage of "going small" and only using a gun when you have no other choice.
I suspect that shortly after the apocalypse there will be thousands of ARs and AKs found laying about, left by former owners who thought that high-tech piece of hardware imparted super powers upon meeting up with a squad of opposition equally armed.
So, the rationale: All DA revolvers are highly complex inside with parts that interact, and can "interference interact" as in when the trigger is short-stroked resulting in a "jam" due to the trigger sear abutting the hammer DA sear "just so" causing a solid, metal-bending collision of parts. Then is the short stroke that allows the cylinder to rotate while the hammer happily bobbles in place without cocking - no cocking = no bullets flying out! Then there is the overall more delicate structure due to the cut-away frame to house the cylinder crane, the larger barrel-cylinder gap mandated due to rapid heat buildup into the forcing cone causing a narrow BC gap to close and seize the gun by cylinderfull number 3 with proper .357 magnum loads. If any part breaks, or wears excessively, it will require better steel, and a better gunsmith the replace it - as will springs.

Now, with the 1873 it's pretty simple. The hammer and trigger are simple, robust parts. The cylinder bolt is probably the most complex part, but within the ability of someone skilled with saws and files to recreate. The flat spring - or more modern, bent round wire spring used for the bolt is easy to fabricate, as is the massive leaf spring to power the hammer. The frame is a solid "O" shape with a thick, solid center pin fully supported at both ends. The firing pin can be easily shaped from a section of steel rod and suitably hardened and tempered...overall a VERY simple, robust, strong, nearly unbreakable group of parts!
The SA trigger means EVERY shot has the same, precision trigger break, and anyone who has ever shot SA and DA revolvers already knows they can be emptied as fast as a DA with fully controlled technique, meaning accuracy!
I'd probably opt for the .45 Colt for the same reason as the 1873 - a massive case that can do an excellent job whether using modern smokeless, or home-blended black powder. The big bores thrived in the era of black powder and didn't get any weaker in the smokeless world. I've got .45 Colt black powder substitute loads I loaded up 20 years ago that will still register over 850 fps across the chrono with 250 grain hard cast lead slugs - not too many ANYTHINGS want to soak one of those up, let alone six.
When you carry a DA revolver you have the assurance of exactly ONE shot before the probability gremlins arrive, because as you release that trigger, YOU are the weakest link and can short-stroke the action! No such problem with a SA.
The slower unloading/loading process is actually a benefit because it forces you to consider and use other options over trying to blast your way out of a situation which, in "revolver world" is iffy at best.
Some will say a Ruger New Model is better - and it is. Bank vault strong with unbreakable coil springs throughout, a Ruger .45 Colt is certainly on the table and deservedly so, I simply prefer the sleeker, more seductive lines of the 1873!
 
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Based off your criteria I would look at a S&W 9mm revolver with the 2.5 inch barrel.

Ammo is not as expensive as traditional revolver rounds so you can double your fun.

If you are truly not concerned with concealing it I would increase the barrel length.

Easy recoil so quick to target and moon clips can make for a fast reload.

I think the model is the 986 but I truly don't recall off top of my head.
 
Considering everything you specified, I would respectfully recommend you look for a good used 686-4 with a 4" barrel. It will prove to be extremely accurate and reliable, and you will never wear it out. Plus, you can shoot either .38 Special or .357 Magnum ammo in it... :)
 
The easy answer is a 4" 686. It's probably the best compromise between size, durability, and ammo availability/cost. A bit of a behemoth to carry. A K-frame would carry easier.

I wouldn't be happy about it, because I like 6" barrels. I know everybody tends to always consider defensive purposes when selecting firearms. I have some suitable for that use but I came to the conclusion decades ago that I fire 99.99% of my ammunition at paper targets for recreation. Over decades of shooting that's a lot of ammo. Might as well buy what I like for the range because that's where it's going to get used. So the guns I enjoy shooting the most are stainless 6" K-L-N frames.
 
You didn't mention defense against animals so I would recommend getting something chambered for 357 Magnum. While 44 Magnum is a great cartridge if you enjoy reloading (I don't) the ammo is typically 50% to 100% more expensive than 357/38 and that includes low powered target shooting loads. Why pay double to punch .429 inch holes in paper instead of .357 inch holes? With a 357 you can shoot 38 Special which is usually less expensive. With a 44 Magnum you will find 44 Special is about the same price as the magnum rounds. Unless you are worried about bears a 357 will have all the power you need.

For self defense the 357 magnum is hard to beat. Enough power to be more effective than 9mm but still controllable out of a L or K frame revolver.

Avoid the temptation to get a 9mm revolver to avoid stocking a new type of ammo. One of the great things about revolvers is being able to shoot anything from weak cowboy loads to hot magnums out of the same gun. All 9mm is about the same. And bullet creep can be an issue in light 9mm revolvers.

If you are buying new I would recommend either a S&W 66 or 686 with a 4 inch barrel. I will not carry a gun that big but lots of people do. But they would be much better guns at the range than a J-frame snubby. When I was looking for a 357 a few weeks ago I was torn between a 66 and 686 Plus. I bought a 686+ because a local dealer had one in stock. I have never had a problem with new S&W revolvers but have seen enough reports of twisted barrels or large cylinder gaps I want to see the actual gun I will be buying and not just order one online.
 
Felt recoil with full power 158 grain magnum loads will be quite a bit greater than with an L or N frame revolver (they tip the scales nearly 50% heavier) but you have the full power option if you need it for defense or deer season.
With 4 to 4.25 inch barrels the S&W website lists the weight of K, L and N frame guns as:

66 with 4.25 inch barrel = 36.9 ounces
686+ with 4.125 inch barrel = 39 ounces
627 PC with 4 inch barrel = 41.4 ounces

That makes the L frame 686 6% heavier and the N frame 627 12% heavier.

If the OP wants to look for an older K frame with a pencil barrel he might find something lighter but with new guns the L frames are not that much heavier.

I agree that a K frame 66 with a 4 inch barrel would be a great choice. But if the OP cannot find one or wants 7 shots instead of 6 the 686 is not that much heavier and costs the same.
 
I've shot thousands of rounds through my Ruger Super Single Six .22LR/.22 Mag convertible with 6.5" barrel.
Its not practically concealable and even with the .22 Magnum cylinder in place it is not what I'd call a self defense caliber, but dang that thing is enjoyable to shoot.
I have other pistols for other purposes.
If I could only have one revolver I would keep that Ruger.
It's served me well since eighth grade.
 
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For the original question, a model 69. Mine is 2 3/4" and carries well IWB; for all around, the 4" might be better.
Only one gun? My model 629-4, 6 1/2" powerport. One of the advantages of revolvers is the load power isn't needed to work the slide. So, as another poster said, "snake shot", all the way to some heavy 240gr loads. Basically, this could be a small rifle, shoulder holster carry. Not meaning to go off track on the thread, just carrying the spirit of the question.
 
I'll add my recommendations-

As others have said, a 686 is a great gun and great example of a S&W revolver.

I'd also be remiss if I didn't mention a good 22- for me it'd be either a 617 or a earlier model 63, both in 4 inch. 22s are fun, accurate and don't break the bank for a fun day of shooting.

My 2 cents

Let us know what you decide.
 

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