Improving The Sport's Trigger Using Only New Springs

[otisrush]

Does anyone have any real-world experience improving their trigger doing only spring replacement and polishing? I am considering doing this on a Sport - but if I understand things correctly that shouldn't matter because I think all M&P rifle lowers are the same.

So.....can anyone pass along any experiences? If you polished - what specifically did you do? Which products did you use?

Thanks.

OR

 

[JaPes]

I do!

I stoned my stock combat trigger and installed JP Enterprises reduced power "yellow" springs. Polish the sear and contact surfaces. Go slow. Test fit often. I got it to the point where there is just a little take up then it breaks like glass.

http://youtu.be/Jo3niAvu47w

Products: stone, old credit card, wet sand 800 grit sandpaper, mothers aluminum mag polish, JP Enterprises "yellow" springs.

I stress go slow. Test fit and test the trigger pull often.

 

[TheMaineEvent]

That's a crisp trigger pull. Is there a video that shows what the process is using the yellow trigger springs?

 

[uncledoggle]

There are a ton of YouTube videos on how to replace trigger springs.

And, the yellow JP springs to work. Very simple job to do, even for a old man like me that suffers from CSS syndrome.

 

[Chew]

I like to tinker and work on all kinds of things. But I stay away from triggers. You guys are braver than I am. This is one area I just spring for the aftermarket.

 

[TheMaineEvent]

Good to know. I've seen videos on doing a trigger job, but didn't know if there was one in particular for what JaPes was talking about as I've never seen a credit card used in any of the videos I've seen.

 

[uncledoggle]

Take off too much material and you'll be using that credit card on a new trigger assembly.

 

[JaPes]

I use a credit card or thin rigid plastic to support the fine grit sandpaper when smoothing the sear contact surface on the hammer. It's tough to get in that tiny tiny space.

Take off too much material and you'll be using that credit card on a new trigger assembly.

Yup. Just go a little bit at a time. It gets annoying smoothing, polishing, test fitting over and over but it's worth it. You'll feel your way to the best possible trigger pull.

I do a little extra polishing while I have all of it out. I'll polish up the disonnector to a high shine. I'll polish the face of the hammer to a high shine. I'll polish the bottom of the bolt carrier which rides over the hammer to a high shine. When reassembling, I'll give the trigger pin and hammer pivot pin a real light coat of red hi-temp grease. Using a pin-point oiler, I'll put a drop of oil on the sear, and the little part of the hammer that contacts the sear.

One word of caution about the JP Enterprises "Yellow" reduced power springs. Due to the reduced power, they can cause light strikes. Others have reported this issue. I've never had a problem with it.

With all of that said...

No matter how good I became at stoning and polishing a stock combat trigger, I could never get it as good as a relatively inexpensive RRA 2-Stage Varmint and/or National Match trigger.

 

[JaPes]

That's a crisp trigger pull. Is there a video that shows what the process is using the yellow trigger springs?

It also has a pretty nice reset.

When pressing the trigger, there was just a smidge of take up. Flicking the safety on then off removed that take up, the trigger would be at the "wall".

 

[Lee in Quartzsite]

Best investment I ever made to improve my rifle and my accuracy was to install a Geissele trigger.

Triggers

 

[otisrush]

Thanks very much for the info! To be honest - I'm now rethinking whether I want to take this on or not. Maybe when it's blizarding out in a few months and I've got time to kill I may give it a go.

Thanks again!

OR

 

[Rick_A]

Reliability can be compromised with springs alone.

For best results the hammer should be reprofiled.

20140322_012214_LLS by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

20140322_012350_LLS by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

That or a JP speed hammer.


Even then I'd only do so on a play gun.

My serious guns use Accuracy Speaks and Geissele triggers.

 

[Rastoff]

I did a $0 upgrade on my trigger. I put some Mother's polish on the sear surfaces and worked the trigger several times. Worked the trigger about 10 times, re-applied Mother's and did it again. Did this maybe three times.

I cut off one of the fingers on the hammer spring.

This did not remove any of the creep, but it made the trigger super smooth and much lighter. It's about 3.5lbs now. Reset is still strong and I've had no malfunctions or failures to fire due to the lightened hammer spring.

Doing it this way is non-invasive. There is no risk to the sear because all you're doing is polishing. The sear angle won't change because you're using the sear to do the polishing. If you feel the hammer spring is too light afterwards, just put in a new spring for $5.

Believe it or not, this dropped my group size by 1/2MOA.

 

[Chew]

Best investment I ever made to improve my rifle and my accuracy was to install a Geissele trigger.



Triggers

I second this. The Geissele is the real deal.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[robkarrob]

Results of my 15T trigger pull job. I used the following link and my results were great. The only cost was about $17 for the JP reduced power springs, set screw, and anti-seize lube (Permatex 133A available at most auto parts stores), but there was a lot of hand work involved. I polished the sear and hammer mating faces, inserted a set screw into the hand grip screw threads to reduce trigger take-up, had to modify the disconnector to functions properly after eliminating the take-up and to allow the safety selector lever to fit and work right, adjusted the springs to get the desired trigger pull weight, applied a thin film of the anti-seize lube to the mating surfaces of the sear, hammer, and disconnector, which greatly reduces friction and makes for a very smooth pull. The anti-seize tube will be enough to last for a long time. It acts like the expensive sear lubes sold by Midway, etc., and is great for all pressure friction points.

Bob



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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qv5KFSzF_cM