Installing a target hammer in a Model 17 K22

[SWMod10]

I just got a target hammer for a Model 17 K22.

Has anyone swapped out a hammer before? I have the Kuhnhausen book and a wide assortment of pistol smithing tools, left over from working on 1911's.

Is there anything that makes this a job best left to a smith or can I do this myself?

Thanks

 

[john traveler]

Swapping out a Target Hammer is a relatively simple proposition.

S&W used to sell blister-packed TH & TT for aftermarket installation.

You will need to remove the mainspring tension screw and the sideplate of course. Use the proper fitting screwdrivers and techniques to avoid damaging the sideplate.

Pull and hold the trigger rearward, and lift out the hammer.

You will need a pin punch to drift out the retaining pin that holds the DA fly and spring. Reinstall these on to the target hammer.

Pull and hold the trigger rearward, and drop in the hammer.

Reinstall the mainspring and tension screw.

Reinstall the sideplate. Cycle the gun to check for proper functioning.

And that's it!

 

[SWMod10]

Swapping out a Target Hammer is a relatively simple proposition.

S&W used to sell blister-packed TH & TT for aftermarket installation.

You will need to remove the mainspring tension screw and the sideplate of course. Use the proper fitting screwdrivers and techniques to avoid damaging the sideplate.

Pull and hold the trigger rearward, and lift out the hammer.

You will need a pin punch to drift out the retaining pin that holds the DA fly and spring. Reinstall these on to the target hammer.

Pull and hold the trigger rearward, and drop in the hammer.

Reinstall the mainspring and tension screw.

Reinstall the sideplate. Cycle the gun to check for proper functioning.

And that's it!

Thanks for the reply. I tried it last night.

Everything went well until I reinstalled the side plate. Once the side plate screws were tightened down, the hammer would bind.

I would pull it back and it would get stuck, then I had to loosen the side plate screws to get the hammer unstuck.

It works fine with the screws loose or the side plate off.

One thing-The old hammer's pivot hole was chamfered on the left side but not the right.

The hammer I have is not chamfered.

I noticed that it looks like the old hammer sits closer to the frame on the chamfered side than the new on does.

Is it possible that the new hammer needs to be chamfered as well? With the hammer being hardened, do I want to cut through the hardening to do that?

 

[Tired Gunsmith]

We often had to chamfer the hammer where it rode on the stud in the frame.
The miniscus on the base of the stud required that relief so as to not bind.
Yes, you will cut through the case harening at that very small area--if done properly there will be no harm.
Replacement hammers came from the factory both chamfered and unchamfered according to the time of manufacture.

 

[SWMod10]

We often had to chamfer the hammer where it rode on the stud in the frame.
The miniscus on the base of the stud required that relief so as to not bind.
Yes, you will cut through the case harening at that very small area--if done properly there will be no harm.
Replacement hammers came from the factory both chamfered and unchamfered according to the time of manufacture.

Thanks for the reply, I thought that is were it might be binding.

I chamfered the hole and that did the trick.

Thanks for the help.