Installing/Replacing a Front Sight Insert - Tips...

Upon their request for a self-luminescent front sight, my solution was to visit a friend of my parents who was a watchmaker. He furnished a small can of wax that contained a white substance that is used on watch dials to cause them to glow in the dark for several hours. He recommend white rather than green because it retained luminescence longer.

I placed the open can of wax on my electric stove's burner. The wax flamed and burned away, leaving a white powder. From that point our procedures are similar. I used clear epoxy as the binder. I experimented to identify the ratio of powder to binder and have a durable insert. I also used a tiny drill to use as a combination anchor plus receptacle for yet more powder-binder.


Great Idea. I decided to see if I could find something similar. I did.

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It's from this site.

Luminous Watch Hand Paint - Dial Luminescent Powder | Esslinger Watchmakers Tools

Kind of pricey per gram but may be worth a shot. One thing to look out for, especially way back when you did it, is these powders may be somewhat radioactive.

And I'm not sure how well they would work with colored pigments, and type of pigment (powdered vs liquid) may make a difference as well.
 
One thing I'd like to point out. Many....decades ago, I read that the orange inserts can gray out under certain lighting conditions. I regarded this as BS. Then, much later, during a match at an indoor range I visually lost my front sight.

Yeah, the circumstances have to be just right, it only happened on one stage, but I removed the sight as soon as I got home. I'd advise against the insert on a defensive pistol.
 
I have done similar work but with Clear Epoxy and Testors model paint, also drill 2 holes at opposite angles instead of using a punch. The inserts held up pretty well.
 
Great photos and tips on this procedure.

Another useful tool for doing these inserts is an additional small triangle file with one "safe" side. (cutting teeth removed) This safe sided file allows you to have more control, and open the angle cuts at each end without removing material from the bottom of the dovetail....or work on the bottom cut without cutting the end angle.
The file also makes it much easier to cut the corners/angles at each end to a very sharp point.

Armorer 951 is absolutely right as that is the best file for this job. Also I've used popcycle sticks for the fences with success on many occasions. A bit more clean up but easier to find than sheet brass. If clean up is an issue you could lacquer the sticks and let them set for a few days to have a perfectly smooth surface.
 
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