Internal Locks and Hammer Blocks

[davel686]

Thats all i did, I removed the flag which just happens to have the lock lug on the hammer side of it that engages the hammer and the goofy little spring and put it back together and have never regretted it.
My was actually rubbing on the hammer and when the gun started getting hot it would not let the hammer drop right.
so mine needed to be removed and now it works just fine.

 

[bassoneer]

This has been a good thread...I feel good about taking those locks out. They are not "safeties", they are locking devices for storage...I don't carry around keyed trigger locks or gun vaults either...just doesn't make sense to build that sort of a thing inside a gun. I had a 1911 with a thumb safety...that I understood because of the way the gun operated, the light trigger pull and the fact that I carried it cocked and loaded. A safety on a 1911 is a good thing, but an internal lock on a revolver, the more I think about it, makes no sense. In a few days I plan on taking out that little black cylinder and the spring/fork and then putting in some of Bullseye's Plugs to fill the holes. I still plan to post some photos. Later, B

 

[PDL]

It seems the only valid reason for having an IL is the gun has to pass the PC BS. If you really need that piece of metal to secure your firearm, your doing something wrong or living in CA or NJ.

Just realized that last line was redundant.

 

[lagavulin62]

I got a 686-6(IL), but with all the pre-lock 357's I now have I never shoot it. if I can get the right tools this might be a good project for me. all I have done as far as gunsmithing is change the mainspring on a p64. that turned out super so wonder if i can do this? I've been saving the 686 for when I start reloading. you know to test those first loads. if I added a little too much powder by mistake may as well blow out a gun with IL, right?

 

[MO_mule]

lagavulin62:

Of course you can do it! Use a properly fitting screwdriver so the slots do not get chewed up when taking the side plate off. Take pictures as you go if you are forgetful or if you just want to document the steps for a tech article...

Git yer plugs and git 'er done.

Chris

 

[bassoneer]

I got a 686-6(IL), but with all the pre-lock 357's I now have I never shoot it. if I can get the right tools this might be a good project for me. all I have done as far as gunsmithing is change the mainspring on a p64. that turned out super so wonder if i can do this? I've been saving the 686 for when I start reloading. you know to test those first loads. if I added a little too much powder by mistake may as well blow out a gun with IL, right?

You should be able to do it! There are a couple of tricks...watch the famous video on the internet that shows how to remove the lock on a S&W 642 and they will step you through the tricky parts. On a 686 there is the hammer block that I spoke of that will probably fall out when you take off the side plate, but that is super simple to lay back on top when you're ready to close the gun back up. Just don't try to pry off the side plate. A couple of times I had my 13-year old hold a flashlight or twist something with his young and nimble fingers...but it really is an easy task. I would recommend once you get things back together and feel good about it, go to the range and run a few rounds through it and check out the function real well. You will then probably have more confidence in the gun than ever. And you will know how the insides of your gun works - that is very cool information to know. Later, B

 

[Bullseye Smith]

bassoneer that was said like a true Smith man, There isn't anything in there that the people on the forum can't help you with. You may even find parts on here in case you lose some . The hammer block will come off every time you take the side plate off. After all the neg. inputs this did turn into the best thread on the lock so far. Buy those new ones, because alot don't know what to look for in a used one, they are just like a car.