Is a chronograph necessary?

Model5

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Like the title states. I'm curious as to how many people reload for their revolvers and use/don't use a chronograph. I have ventured into reloading for 38/357 for my two smith and Wesson revolvers. One being a modern 66-8 combat magnum and the other a 1982 15-4. Now I've been loading for rifle for a couple years and have a good understanding of pressure signs and just generally going off what the handbook has as far as load data and staying well off the ceiling for max loads. I'm not trying to push the limits of any of my firearms. I'm just happy to be able to make them go bang and do it accurate and precisely. The only issue I'm running in to that is making me second guess what I'm doing and possibly creating a need for a chronograph is the fact that all of the projectiles I have to load with are not necessarily ones that have manufacturers creating popular handbooks with loads of data. What I've been doing is taking multiple books I have, as well as online sources, and cobbling together what I feel is a safe load for my given components. Now I didn't mean for that to be too long and drawn out but I would love some input as to how necessary are chronograph is at this point or what kind of advise some of the more seasoned handloaders might have for safely loading for these pistol cartridges. Thank you in advanced.
 
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I seldom chonograph by handloads, but I use it more with my airguns and archery equipment. Generally I'm not that concerned about the velocity of my handloads, just the accuracy and safety. The targets tell me the accuracy and I rely on reputable sources for load data and check the fired cases for any signs of excessive pressure.
 
Don't feel I need one for range ammo, but miss having one for developing heavy woods loads.
 
" What I've been doing is taking multiple books I have, as well as online sources, and cobbling together what I feel is a safe load for my given components."

IMHO, you need a chronograph. Either you have a proven load from a reliable source, or you don't and you're guessing, which is too much risk for me. I've watched people work up revolver loads by "pressure signs" that found the first certain pressure sign was the topstrap hitting the ceiling...

I know people that never own a chronograph and do just fine because they only use proven loads that are not near max. They don't mix and match and guess.
 
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A chronograph is a very useful tool. You can get by without one, but you will never really know what your reloads are actually doing without chronographing them. I actually feel the chronograph is more necessary for development of rifle loads so you can work up much more accurate ballistic tables . If I had to do it all over again, I would save my money a little longer and invest in a LabRadar. I shoot on a club range and calling for a ceasefire long enough to get a regular down range chronograph set up and aligned does not make you very popular. I believe the LabRadar would make it much easier to shoot for groups at the same time as collecting your velocity figures a much easier exercise.
 
The data published by such
reputable outfits as Speer generally
reflect the safest pressures for a
powder and bullet weight under
medium conditions.

The biggest mistake at rifle
ranges that I've seen is loaders
working up a combination during the
winter or cool months, seeing no
signs of pressure despite what the
loading books advise.

Then come summer and the ammo
gets heated up, pressures in the
cartridges rise upon firing and
the firearms are ruined.
 
I've always reloaded for accuracy not power. (In fact I've pretty much found that the "hot" loads are usually not the most accurate.)
I don't hunt, so knock down power isn't high on my list. For me a well placed shot is as good as, if not better, than a max load.
(Besides, I don't have to beat my gun and myself up practicing....;))
 
" What I've been doing is taking multiple books I have, as well as online sources, and cobbling together what I feel is a safe load for my given components."

IMHO, you need a chronograph. Either you have a proven load from a reliable source, or you don't and you're guessing, which is too much risk for me. I've watched people work up revolver loads by "pressure signs" that found the first certain pressure sign was the topstrap hitting the ceiling...

I know people that never own a chronograph and do just fine because they only use proven loads that are not near max. They don't mix and match and guess.

I see what you are saying. I have found it hard to track down load data specific to the zero brand bullets I came into. So I used the low end of what the Speer manual had for their JSP that is the same shape and weight. Granted I say cobbled together. I'm not necessarily going in blind but also understand there can be slight dimensional differences. I tested 50 38 special loads between my 357 and 38 and everything seemed ok. But how do you really know unless your getting the velocity.
 
Just glanced at the price for one, was highly surprised to see how low it was.

Will hopefully be venturing on this reloading process, if I actually end up manufacturing something to fire, it will be read by a chronograph, needed or not.
 
I've been using a chronograph for about forty years. I consider it a little more important for rifle loads than handgun loads, but it's useful for both. You can get by without one and I did just that for the first fifteen years I handloaded, but it's good to know where your figures stand against book figures. Additionally, once you gain some experience, velocity figures can tell you something about pressures, too.

Chronographs have some features that most of us really don't need unless you're shooting at extreme distances. Don't get caught up in the extreme spread and standard deviation numbers game that's enjoying a fad popularity these days. Many try to obtain the smallest numbers possible, thinking such loads will produce the best accuracy. Sometimes true, but usually not. I don't pay attention to the numbers unless they are incredibly wild, and if they are, that load will usually be a poor one anyway. Concentrate on accuracy instead of ES and SD. You'll be way ahead.
 
Like the title states. I'm curious as to how many people reload for their revolvers and use/don't use a chronograph. I have ventured into reloading for 38/357 for my two smith and Wesson revolvers. One being a modern 66-8 combat magnum and the other a 1982 15-4. Now I've been loading for rifle for a couple years and have a good understanding of pressure signs and just generally going off what the handbook has as far as load data and staying well off the ceiling for max loads. I'm not trying to push the limits of any of my firearms. I'm just happy to be able to make them go bang and do it accurate and precisely. The only issue I'm running in to that is making me second guess what I'm doing and possibly creating a need for a chronograph is the fact that all of the projectiles I have to load with are not necessarily ones that have manufacturers creating popular handbooks with loads of data. What I've been doing is taking multiple books I have, as well as online sources, and cobbling together what I feel is a safe load for my given components. Now I didn't mean for that to be too long and drawn out but I would love some input as to how necessary are chronograph is at this point or what kind of advise some of the more seasoned handloaders might have for safely loading for these pistol cartridges. Thank you in advanced.

To me, it sounds like you're doing fine without it. Staying off max, matching bullet profiles where you have to wing it a bit. Lots of us have done it that way for a long time. For casual shooters, it's probably a nice thing to have but not critical.

That said, I think you are probably going to need one now that the bug has bitten you. You can never have too much information and what's another couple hundred bucks in this money-saving hobby?
 
Model5, Absolutely, positively necessary, I guess not. But to answer your question, you don't really know velocities without a chronograph. I realize many shooters and reloaders could care less about actual velocities in their particular guns. But I have used a chronograph for many years, and wouldn't be without one. Within my humble experience, factory and reloaded ammo when chronographed, may vary considerably from published figures. Often when reloading, I'll be using a bullet, primer or case different from the ones used in this or that reloading manual. In that case, velocities are almost guaranteed to vary from those published. I don't load for rifles anymore, and though it may not matter much with the handgun ammo I shoot and reload now days, I still like to load ammo as consistent as possible. A chronograph lets me know of extreme velocity spreads, velocities higher or lower than expected, velocities in different firearms with same or different barrel lengths, etc.

Chronographs are so inexpensive now days, I'm surprised every serious shooter and reloader doesn't utilize one.
 
I have used a chronograph for every load. Whether it be a mouse-fart 38 Spl load or a ragged edge +p 45 load. I find it to be a useful tool to dial in the results I want for a particular bullet.
 
Absolutely not necessary when plinking and shooting mid range loads inside 25 yards.

For making Minor or Major Power Factor, yup!

For maximizing accuracy using standard deviation shooting precision rifle beyond 200 yards, yup!

For verifying published data , yup!

Smiles,
 
I say it is a ''nice to have'' but not a ''must''.If you are curious and like developping loads,it is nice to see at what speed your bullets are coming out.
So if your 150gr from a .308Win comes out at 3450fps,you'll know from the chrono.But you'll also when you find the bolt is hard to lift and the primer grew to half the size of the brass butt!
 
While you probably can get away with loading for target velocity rounds using the "check several good sources" method I still consider a chrono a good tool for developing really good target loads. The chrono is essential IMHO for heavy loads.

While it isn't common for bad loads to get into good loading manuals it does happen, abet rarely.

The basic chrono isn't expensive these days. I'd suggest putting one on your list.

For the advanced reloader a chrono is essential, as is a decent dial caliper and micrometer.
 
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