Is the trigger fix really that easy?

Exactly what did you trim 1/16' off. Just curious and what did it do? Still reliable? Thanks

the two springs inside the sear...have put at least 3-4 hundred through it since, all different types of loads, and not one problem.
guess if you dont feel comfortable triming these, dont. all i know is the trigger pull is like half of what it was new with no ill side effects.i didnt change the firing pin spring because of the light hit issue that goes with it.i did put one in but i had 3 FTF's in 100 rounds, not acceptable...it now reside in a bag in my "spring drawer.
 
If I had a vote, I would cast it in favor of keeping the Sigma stock and shooting lots of rounds through her. Liability and RE-liabililty issues are primary reasons. Plus, time heals most issues with the Sigma, or at least that's what happened with mine.

After six years of use, I have an honest 4,000 rounds through my Sigma 9VE. I have to admit when it was brand new (and so was I), I put more lead into the ground in front of the target than I did into the target, due to a stiff trigger. But now it's like falling off a log--good defense groups with any kind of ammo--never a hick-up. Plus, I have experienced at least three side benefits to taking time to learn my Sigma:

1. I can shoot a snub-nosed .38 or .357 Mag. with ease now, because the Sigma trigger pull is very similar to a double-action revolver feel.
2. I feel very confident in carrying my Sigma with a round in the chamber, because I know that long trigger pull and the automatic trigger safety (along with safe handling practices) will prevent an unintentional firing accident.
3. Firing several thousand rounds has smoothed the trigger action on my Sigma. After the first 800 rounds or so I could feel a slight difference in the trigger, but the real benefits didn't break in until after a couple of thousand rounds.

I've tried a few things to improve my Sigma. For a while I used a stiffer recoil spring for +P ammo, but I found it unnecessary, and I've considered the "trigger fix," but I really like my trigger now. At this stage of the game I can honestly say I love my Sigma as she sits--naked, with no modifications. I take her with me for every day carry most of the time, for bowling pins, and for plinking and hiking as well. In the interest of full disclosure, I do use a home-made rubber grip (made from a bicycle inner tube) for extended sessions. I also carry two of the "Military and Police Only" 17-round magazines. Other than that, all I can say is, "Wow!" What a difference time and practice made!

Whatever you decide, good luck.
 
Hi,

I agree with the responses that it is best to leave the Sigma alone. The Sigma is a double action only pistol. There were reasons S&W designed the Sigma to be a double action pistol. If a person does not like a longer heavier trigger pull on a hand gun then the Sigma is not for them. As others had explained, the Sigma's trigger does get better with use. But the Sigma will never have the trigger like a 1911. Plain and simple. When a person is considering any kind of handgun, he or she has to decide which trigger design and action type they want before they buy. Of course a person should try many handguns before deciding on that.
For me the Sigma is my type of handgun. Double action. I have a lot of double action revolvers and shoot only double action. Only a few semi-autos have a true double action only design. Sigma is one of them.

Bottom line, the Sigma is one of the safest pistols on the market today. That is why S&W designed the Sigma. The way I look at it if a person does not like the Sigma because of the trigger then he or she should sell the Sigma and get something else.

Regards,
roaddog28
 
I understand that the trigger was designed the way it was but I dont see anything wrong with improving that design with some polishing. I have already put the pigtail back in the sear assembly so its stock minus the polish, which I still need to do more of. I am still considering the lighter clicker pen spring to give it a try and if it is unreliable or I decide I dont like it I can always put the stock spring back in.
 
All I done was polish and got rid of the pigtail it was leaving a pretty big grove after 500 rounds so i left it out. The polishing made a big diffrence and was very easy to do.
 
IMHO leave the trigger alone. If it gives you a problem send it back to S&W or Frank at LSG.
 
I did a semi-polish to the sear cam without taking sear assembly apart or removing any springs. I made a 1:1 mixture using GunSlick graphite lube and valve grinding compound. Put a dab on the sear cam with a toothpick and work with trigger. Add compound a few times making shure it gets down to plastic housing. Pull trigger about 100 times. Now pull sear housing out and clean with non-chlorinated brake cleaner or equivalent. Put back in frame and lube.
Don't use compound without lube or put to much on sear at once or trigger will lock up. Then you will need to clean assembly and start over...

Good Luck
 
I removed the pigtail spring and replaced the outer sear spring with a spring from a Papermate Pro Fit ink pen. It dropped the trigger pull to 9 lb 1 oz. The entire process took 10 minutes.
 
I did mine with the assistance/review from an armorer friend and I thought it was easy. It's smooth, lighter, still long and I've not seen any problems after many 100's of rounds. I do recommend you have a pro available to check your work, that extra set of eyes goes a long way to ease my mind.
 
The gritty feeling mostly comes from the slot in the sear where the pin from the trigger bar rides. I rolled 1500 wet sand tofit snug in the slot and worked it up and down until it had no more machine marks. It is absolutly smooth now. Well worth the effort.
 
Yep, and the other half of the grittiness is on the sear face. The grooves from the cutting process are plainly visable. If you are going to work on the face, make sure you don't round the sharp edges of the sear. I recommend you use some kind of sanding stick or bar.
 
Doing a trigger job was easy on mine. I just picked up the phone, called Smith and Wesson and sent the gun in. Driving up to fedex was the hardest part of doing the trigger job lol
 
Doing a trigger job was easy on mine. I just picked up the phone, called Smith and Wesson and sent the gun in. Driving up to fedex was the hardest part of doing the trigger job lol

Ain't that the truth! I sent mine to the factory and it came back a little better. Then I heard about LSG, sent it there and it was better yet, pretty damn good really. Then I worked on it myself and don't believe it could be made any better. Still long, still about 8 1/2# but smooth as silk.
 
Read my posts under "Cleaning the Sigma" and see if that will help.
I took a stock Sigma and took it from a 14.50# pull to a 10.75# pull without taking apart sear assembly or removing springs.
Just saying...
 
I tried doing some spring changing and decided to return my sigma to stock condition and using some never seize grease on the sear, after some dry firing you would not believe the difference this makes.
 
I own a SW40VE Sigma. The trigger pull has been measured by a
gunsmith at over 10 lbs pull. I have been informed that some Sigma
triggers are as high as 13 lbs. Rediculous. There is safety and there is
rediculous. I ordered the spring kits from Wolf Springs and the recoil
guide rod as well. THEN, I opened up my gun, removed the trigger assembly myself, removed the two springs under the hammer portion
of the hammer assembly and replaced the outer spring with a ink pen
spring, and removed (cut) exactly 3 and 1/2 turns of the inner spring, then placed them back into their prospective positions under the hammer assembly and reinstalled the hammer assembly back into the frame of the gun. I had it measured again and it has 7.1 lbs of pull.
I have also fired this gun without a hitch since then. Not one jam, no stovepipes and no FTL or FTF. I now like this gun and will trust it to
save my life if need be. The proper fix actually for this issue is to find
the correct spring wire metal and have one made that has the same
dimensions as the original wires, but a smaller diameter spring steel
wire in it's place. The smaller wire thickness will offer less pressure on
the hammer as you pull the trigger. THOSE TWO SPRINGS are mostly
responsible for the hard to pull tension you feel. If I had it to do again, I would not have ordered the Wolf Spring kits and would have
ONLY removed the 3 1/2 turns off the inner spring under the hammer
assembly and swapped the outer spring with the ink pen spring.
The outer spring is there to guide the compression of the inner spring.
DO NOT OPERATE THE FIREARM WITHOUT IT. The inner spring has to
have a guide to stay in place as it flexes with compression. That is
why the outer spring is there.
Hope this helps you all with your Sigmas. Mine is great!
 
I need to clarify that the inner spring cuts are to be made NOT from the
middle of the spring (duh)... but from the bottom end of the inner spring.
The other end of the inner spring fits into a round shallow hole under
the hammer. The inner spring MUST FIT AND SEAT into that shallow
hole. It it does not, it will slip out and jam the hammer. Not something you want to happen if and when you need it to operate.
The bottom of the spring fits right over a flat pin protrusion that is
part of the hammer assembly. It's also the rest of the inner spring
guide. The cut portion of the spring will not slip here. It will fit and
not rotate. As I have said before, I have fired this gun since and trust
it implicitly to operate when I need it to.
God bless.
 
S&W will pay shipping both ways and smooth up the Sigma's trigger system.

They've done three of my used Sigma's so far.

Just call them and tell them it's "gritty" or "rough".

Do NOT tell them it's "stiff".

They got my frames back to me within 10 working days.

MUCH smoother and seemed lighter but really weren't.
 
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