Is there a easy, inexpensive way to lighten the trigger pull on a 642?

[Rule3]

I realize it is a double action only and do not expect a "light" target trigger but it is a pretty heavy pull. I have dry fired it (snap caps) a few hundred times but does not feel any lighter. I do not want to make it so light that there is problems with light primer strikes. My Model 60 has a nicer trigger than the 642. Is it all in the mainspring?

 

[Pisgah]

You can swap out the springs for a lighter Wolff replacement set. The problem of light strikes may crop up, though. I long ago decided that the best thing on a J-fr4ame is to leave the springs factory-stock, but polish all internal bearing surfaces in order to get the smoothest possible trigger action. No light-strike worries there. In cases where the pull is still horrendous, I will sometimes very gingerly snip a half a coil at a time off the mainspring and the trigger return spring, but if you go this route be sure to have spare's handy. Cut half a coil too much and you'll need 'em.

 

[Skip357]

Give smith a call and ask for a black main spring,this should help

 

[bountyhunter]

+1 on a good trigger job that polishes all the right things. A smoother pull feels lighter. Most shooters will underestimate the pull weight of a smooth trigger by several pounds.

 

[Rule3]

I have Jerry Miculek's Trigger Job DVD. Never had the guts to actually pull a whole gun apart. Maybe it is time If I mess up, you guys can help me put it back together, right?

I like the sound of the "black" spring is it just a lighter spring?

Just looked at the DVD box and "applies to K, L and N frame" not J. Is there that much difference?

 

[allglock]

Apex firing pin and a spring kit will fix your woes. I have done it to all my newer J-frames. All is good!

 

[Rule3]

I called S&W and the service rep stated they do not sell any lighter spring kits. States the Performance center uses the Wolff spring kits or Brownells.

 

[magnum12pm]

The quick easy and reliable way is to go with say a 15 pound rebound spring. Then polish the mating surfaces of the lock work. Many people try and get a five pound trigger pull on a revolver, end up with unreliable ignition, why not just buy a semi-auto pistol and be done with it. It's just my opinion, but an 81/2 to 10 pound smooth trigger pull on a revolver is reasonable, you must practice and use proper technique to achieve accuracy with a revolver. If it was easy everyone would be as good as Jerry!

 

[bountyhunter]

I have Jerry Miculek's Trigger Job DVD. Never had the guts to actually pull a whole gun apart. Maybe it is time If I mess up, you guys can help me put it back together, right?

OK, but if I have to come over and help you comb the shag rug for the little spring, I will require beer.

 

[bountyhunter]

Just looked at the DVD box and "applies to K, L and N frame" not J. Is there that much difference?

I recall the K, L, N are all virtually identical lockworks design built around a flat (leaf) style mainspring. Size of components may vary, basic design is the same. I believe all the J frames use a coil mainspring so their works are a little different and certainly would require a different spring set.

 

[Armen]

springs

I use 12 lb rebound springs on my K, L, and n frames, but heeded the advice of other forum members and went to 13 lb on the J 649. I also called Wolff and asked for one lb lighter than stock on the main (forgot the #).
When I first put it back together, the gun would not function. Trigger failed to return, and other problems. Seems the ultra butch stock springs hid a lot of issues. The comments about filing and polishing are definitely right on. Many hours of work and the gun is a dream.
Good luck!
-Armen

 

[daa9mm]

I've used this spring kit on three different J frames and I am very happy with it.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...tle=#321 S&W J FRAME SPRING KIT&s=36926#36926

 

[Rule3]

The quick easy and reliable way is to go with say a 15 pound rebound spring. Then polish the mating surfaces of the lock work. Many people try and get a five pound trigger pull on a revolver, end up with unreliable ignition, why not just buy a semi-auto pistol and be done with it. It's just my opinion, but an 81/2 to 10 pound smooth trigger pull on a revolver is reasonable, you must practice and use proper technique to achieve accuracy with a revolver. If it was easy everyone would be as good as Jerry!

I have more semi autos than I care to count but not that many slip in pocket of my shorts. Plenty of .380 autos and a Kahr PM9 but sometimes I feel like a little J frame. Here in SW Florida, kinda limited on carry pieces due to light weight clothing.
I think I will just leave well enough alone. It goes bang every time and I'll be happy with that.

 

[Rule3]

OK, but if I have to come over and help you comb the shag rug for the little spring, I will require beer.

I should be so lucky. I usually lose the little parts out in the garage and then spend hours looking for it. I then ask my wife who shakes her head, walks out and in 2 minutes goes "oh this thing"? She has a 6th sense or something

But I will provide Beer of your choice!

 

[Spotteddog]

That's because all of us married above our stations in life OCD!
Chances are that in an encounter of the nasty kind, an 18 pound gritty action will turn into a 2 1/2# match grade S/A feeling pull anyway.

 

[H Richard]

The J lockwork is nearly the same as the K,L,N with the exception of the main spring which is a coil spring in the J, (and yes a paper-clip is the correct tool to remove the mainspring in a J). I was also hesitant to start taking the guts out of a Smith, but did buy the Miculek video, and after watching it a couple times had no problem. (I've been doing trigger jobs on 1911's for years). Polishing a few key area's makes a great difference, just listen carefully to where he says to stay away from. The special (bent) tool to assist removing the rebound slide & spring makes it much easier.

 

[Rule3]

The J lockwork is nearly the same as the K,L,N with the exception of the main spring which is a coil spring in the J, (and yes a paper-clip is the correct tool to remove the mainspring in a J). I was also hesitant to start taking the guts out of a Smith, but did buy the Miculek video, and after watching it a couple times had no problem. (I've been doing trigger jobs on 1911's for years). Polishing a few key area's makes a great difference, just listen carefully to where he says to stay away from. The special (bent) tool to assist removing the rebound slide & spring makes it much easier.

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I feel I have the ability to do the job but think I would always have that nagging "what if" feeling no matter how many times I tested it at the range. Heck, my brand new 327,MP R8 is back at Smith as we speak for light primer strikes and failure to ignite and it's brand new with nothing done to it.