Is this an issue?

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Riptide

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When I bought this pistol (629) new I experienced a couple FTF due to light primer strikes. Took the grips off and found the the strain screw was loose. I tightened that up. The main spring also was slightly canted and not aligned straight. I fixed that issue before I tightened the strain screw. Additionally the cylinder release screw was loose - snugged it down too. Finally the extractor rod was loose as well, an issue I haven't fully addressed as of yet.

Put about 150 cartridges of factory magnum and 50 specials through the pistol. Pulled the grips and it looks like the strain screw is back out again. Also the screw on the cylinder release is loose again too.

What gives? I know .44 magnum is a powerful cartridge but am I really supposed to have to be keeping this close an eye on it? I did not expect things to come loose this quickly.
 
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Locktite is ordinarily not used in those three locations. If turned in tight they should stay put. However, if you must use Locktite then use the weakest blue version of it.

Brownell's and other gunsmithing supply businesses sell tools to clamp the extractor rod without marring it. It did not buy one until 5 or 10 years ago. I used to wrap the rod with a small piece of sheet lead to protect it from pliers. That works but I got sloppy a couple times and left plier jaw marks on the knurling. If I had it to do over I'd buy the tool 40 years ago. Besides, sheet lead is not as common as it used to be. The only tool you need for the other two is a well fitted flat head so you can use enough torque without buggering the screw slot.

Normal main spring pressure acts like a lock washer on the strain screw. Since it is not I suspect that either the spring has been lightened by bending or filing, replaced with a light one, or the strain screw was shortened. Does the revolver missfire in double action?
 
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k22fan said:
Brownell's and other gunsmithing supply businesses sell tools to clamp the extractor rod without marring it. It did not buy one until 5 or 10 years ago. I used to wrap the rod with a small piece of sheet lead to protect it from pliers...
Click to expand...
Sheet lead, interesting choice.
At the suggestion of another member here I have used a small piece of leather wrapped around the last half inch of the ejector rod and clamped in a vise. That seemed to work quite well.
 
The strain screw must be very tight, but not enough to strip the threads. Likewise the side plate and yoke retention screws. They're smaller and require less torque than the strain screw. Once the ejector rod is tightened with a proper tool (never pliers), I've never had one work loose again.

For scopes and things, I bought a torque screwdriver. The same bits fit as used with my magnetic screwdriver set, so it's not hard to find a bit that fits the screw slots exactly (very important). Scope mounts usually give torque specs. I don't have them for revolvers, so I go by feel. So far, so good.

I don't recommend Loc-Tite for anything on a revolver, period! Not even grip screws. It has a tendency to flow where you don't want it and freeze things up. Blue is weaker than Red, designed to be removed. Purple is thicker, designed to flow less and fill gaps. It is very weak. If you must use anything, use Purple.
 
I was unaware of purple Locktite. I learn stuff by being corrected. Purple sounds better than blue but neither one is appropriate.
 
BEFORE you go locktiting anything, I'd replace the screw which may or may not be the correct one. From your post it sounds like the previous owner fiddle-futzed with the gun and was not to good at it.
 
I believe Purple Loctite 222 is considered "low strength". Blue Loctite 242 is considered "medium strength". Both are advertised in being able to be disassembled with hand tools. Loctite Red is high strength or "never coming off without heat".

Other brands may have different color schemes for different strengths.
 
I am not the 2nd owner I am the 1st. The pistol has less than 400 through it total with about 3/4 of that magnum.

Since I didn't see any responses last night before I turned in I figured I'd go ahead and call them. They are wanting me to send it back for service. Their system was down so they couldn't send me a tag and asked that I call back. I wonder what they will tell me about the locktite angle to this. Might be worth asking if they want me to try that first then rather than ship it back.

TBH I'm a little disappointed. I sort of thought a revolver like this would be the "AK" of the pistol world so to speak. I didn't realize these sorts of issues existed with them. Hopefully we can get this sorted out.
 
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The only reason they want you to send the gun back is they want to look at it and be sure there isn't another issue than just loose screws! If the screws have been tightened properly there is no issue with them constantly loosening.

Loc-Tite has it's uses, but to retain screws instead of properly tightening them is not it. Many people, yourself included obviously, are afraid to tighten screws and think they need merely to be slightly snugged down and it is good, this is far from the truth. Buy a set of properly fitting screwdrivers and use them to tighten the screws. If they loosen again after relatively few rounds then tighten them more next time. Keep trying until you can fire a reasonable number of rounds before the screws loosen again.

And, yes, all guns do need periodic maintenance! This includes checking screws for tightness frequently. They also need to be cleaned and lubricated often.
 
The second person I spoke with at S&W told me to use purple loctite. So I ordered some #222 over ebay. Nobody stocks the stuff locally. I also ordered the screwdriver set, a new extraction rod, and the tool to tighten the rod with via Midway.

What I don't understand is why the weapon doesn't come from the factory with these items tightened down and loctite applied. If this is a common issue then why wouldn't they do that? Seems dumb to me.
 
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Either blue or purple works fine. They can both be adjusted or undone with moderate screwdriver pressure. That is the easy way to keep them in place, and easy to undo with no heating.
 
Alk8944 said:
Loc-Tite has it's uses, but to retain screws instead of properly tightening them is not it.
Click to expand...

I have to disagree with that statement. Loc-tite, otherwise known as thread-locker, has absolutely no other purpose other than preventing screws and bolts from backing out due to vibration. And what is a "properly tightened" screw on a S&W revolver, anyway? I've never seen any published torque values. Most people understand "hand tight" instinctively, but what some people think of as "hand tight" can be enough to strip the threads if the guy holding the screwdriver has gorilla mitts.

Just snug it down (with a proper screwdriver, no ratchets or power tools please) as tight as you feel comfortable doing. Any more than that and you risk stripping the threads on such a small fastener... or the screwdriver may slip and scratch the gun's finish. If that ain't enough to keep the pesky screw from backing out, that's what loc-tite is for. Or nail polish, as someone else pointed out.

Don't be afraid to use it, just use it sparingly. A little loc-tite goes a looooong way. I've never used purple, but the blue stuff spreads very thin and it is easy to use too much and then you run the risk of if gumming something up. However, if the correct amount is used, it won't find it's way into unwanted places.
 
Why don't production line workers do the same boring task perfectly every time? Could it be because their bar chart doesn't look as good as the other guys?

I had the head bolts loosen on a brand new car. Unlike revolver screws those should have been turned in to a measured torque and the consequence of them backing out was a lot more important. More recently the bolts that hold the major parts of the engine in a new leaf blower together backed out so it also lost compression. Both engines were repaired under warranty. I never raised my blood pressure over them.
 
Gun screws must be torqed down properly. If done properly they rarely just loosen up on Smiths. I've seen MANY guns that just have screws NOT tightened properly and will eventually come loose. You need to go over every gun when cleaning it and make sure they have been tightened correctly. That said - NO "Gorilla tightening" either :o

MAKE SURE you are using the correct perfect fitting screwdriver bit. Do a search on the Smithing section and you will find much to read about screwdrivers. If you do not want to read many many posts regarding screwdriver bits, all you really need to know is Brownell's Magnatips. ;)
 
One of the wheels on my buddies Tahoe jussssst about fell off after having his tires rotated and a couple new ones put on. Because they didn't tighten the lug nuts on one.
 
Hahaha! That guy kills me. I apologize for thread drift. Well, his wheel didn't come off, but it was damn close. Pulled over before all the nuts had come off. There was considerable wobbling and vibration in the steering.
 
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