Itemized Reloading System COST

[HorizontalMike]

Typo?

The Lee Hand Press(I have one and use it) takes standard threaded dies. As far as I know, the dies from the "Lee Loader" won't work with it.

Any standard threaded die from Lee, RCBS, Lyman, etc will work fine in the hand press. The Lee dies run from about $30(steel 3-die) to about $45(carbide 4 die). For most handgun purpose, I find the carbide 3 die sets at around $35 to be great. Most of these prices are +/- $5 depending on which specific retailer you check.

Ben,
Am I assuming correctly that the above is a typo?
Or is this actually the case?

 

[rwsmith]

The Lee Loader dies

Ben,
Am I assuming correctly that the above is a typo?
Or is this actually the case?

The Lee loader dies have no mounting threads and look nothing like standard dies. They can be used in a arbor type press. The die for a .357 mag looks like an extra long cartridge gauge.

 

[tlay]

When I first got into reloading 4 years ago I had an initial cost of $300 dollars. That was for a Lee turret press and 6 sets of dies with a scale and many assessories bought on fleabay for $150 dollars. I bought an electronic scale, calipers, trays and misc. with the other $150. I know it costs more now but shop around. I already had a bench and shelves. I just needed to buy powder, bullets and primers. I started by buying in bulk. Buy as many at one time and you will save some.
I can see spending $700 to $1000 if you had to buy everything new and had nothing to start with. But as others have said you might not NEED everything.

 

[Krogen]

To HorizontalMike, the OP: How much do you want to spend? I know I must sound like a salesman, but knowing your budget would help us help you spend it.

Also, do you think you'll be in this for the long haul, or just want to test the waters? Any thoughts of adding additional cartridges beyond the two you mention?

Just for fun, I filled my cart at Midway with the stuff I think you would need. I chose Lee for their cost-effectiveness. Now I didn't build a bench for you or buy you various hand tools. I didn't buy you a tumbler or media separator because paper towels and alcohol will work to get you going. My grand total was $230.08 not including shipping.

 

[lhump1961]

lhump1961, & SgtLumpy, I'm not arguing with you. I have no doubt that a person CAN very easily spend a grand or more on a complete deluxe setup. That $400 workbench for example is a thing of beauty. But you don't have to get one of those to get started.

I'm saying that a person can get everything they need to get started reloading one or two pistol calibers for a lot less than that. Will they eventually end up spending that much? Probably, as they upgrade, but they can get started for a lot less. I also forgot to mention that a decent caliper can be had from Harbor Freight for under $20 - I have one.

By giving people the impression that the price of entry is a grand minimum you experienced guys can actually discourage others from even starting. That isn't what you want to do, is it?

Sorry if I left the wrong impression...wasn't trying to dispute anything. Maybe it's just me but I can never seem to get things done for the $$ I set out to spend. All here are correct that a person can get started for much less than I did. Wishing to OP happy loading.

 

[SgtLumpy]

Just for fun, I filled my cart at Midway with the stuff I think you would need. I chose Lee for their cost-effectiveness. Now I didn't build a bench for you or buy you various hand tools. I didn't buy you a tumbler or media separator because paper towels and alcohol will work to get you going. My grand total was $230.08 not including shipping.

Could you list the items?


Sgt Lumpy

 

[HorizontalMike]

Timing how to start with reloading

To HorizontalMike, the OP: How much do you want to spend? I know I must sound like a salesman, but knowing your budget would help us help you spend it.

Also, do you think you'll be in this for the long haul, or just want to test the waters? Any thoughts of adding additional cartridges beyond the two you mention?

Just for fun, I filled my cart at Midway with the stuff I think you would need. I chose Lee for their cost-effectiveness. Now I didn't build a bench for you or buy you various hand tools. I didn't buy you a tumbler or media separator because paper towels and alcohol will work to get you going. My grand total was $230.08 not including shipping.

To be honest, until June 1st, I will be lucky to be able to part with $100/month and that includes ranges fees and ammo. My income stream really starts June 1, unless my stock portfolio (down 35% currently) makes a complete recovery (not likely). Yeah I was kinda dumb in the market back in 2010. Fell, broke 23 ribs/backbones, while fully invested and took eye off the ball...

That $100/month will keep me shooting and can marginally help me stockpile some brass. NO, I cannot "front" the $$$ in the beginning. They just are not there.

I am 61, so whatever the "long haul" is who knows. I have had these rifles for +50yr without firing them, so there is some catching up to do. I also have an old 8mm DAU Nazi Mauser that has been "Sporterized". I have 3-4 boxes of ammo for that, though it is not my desire to bring this up to range life. No scope and the original sights. The 8mm is not my cup of tea anytime in the near future.

I want to concentrate on 22LR, .222, and my 686 .357 (maybe with .38 +P Specials for target, saving the serious stuff for the night stand by the bed).

NOTE: I cannot find a Lee Hand Loader for .222 so in the long run I will HAVE TO go for the better line of reloading system in that caliber. Just buying the Amazon.com: Lee Precision 38 SPL Loader: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51jcOJL%2BMAL.@@AMEPARAM@@51jcOJL%2BMAL to buy some time, is a possibility, assuming that I step away from .357 at the range. I currently only have about 100rd of .38 at the moment, but another 100rd and I could possibly put myself in a holding pattern for a bit... Something to think about. But then there is the cost of fronting for the powder, primers, and such ASAP. Not sure I could pull it off at the moment.

 

[snowman.45]

I've been reloading for 30 years and have tried several different brands of presses and associated equipment. For progressive presses, I prefer the Dillon 550B. It works well for the calibers I load most; 9mm, .38/.357, .44/.44 mag, .45 ACP/AR, 10mm, 5.56x45, 7.62x51. I usually use either Dillon or RCBS dies, although I have been know to use Lee dies as well.

As some have said, you can get set up with a good progressive for under $1000.00. A Dillon 550B is about $439 and comes with one set of dies. Get yourself a digital scale to check charge weights, a primer flipper, some trays for your completed rounds, and you're ready to go. I collect empty brass from work and from other friends in L/E. We trade brass regularly. Powder (per pound) and primers (per 1000) will cost about $25/$30 (for each), bullets vary by maker and type, but usually $20/$30 per 100.

I cast my own .38/.357 using an HP mold and gas checks in 158 gr. I also have some Lee molds. I mold 230 gr. HP rounds for .45 ACP/AR. Casting is great if you have a good source of free lead, like wheel weights from a tire shop. However, there is more added expense in getting your gear together. You need the molds, a production pot to smelt your lead, flux, and a good bullet sizer/lubricator.

If you get into reloading for rifles and some magnum calibers, you will also need the be able to measure and trim brass. There are a number of options in hand trimmers and electric trimmers from which to choose.

So, more simply stated, you can get into it for quite a bit of money. However, there is a certain satisfaction in being able to cobble your own rounds and learn how to make them consistent. I've been able to duplicate our issued sniper rounds in .308 with a lot of experimentation to get the velocity, accuracy and consistency out of them. As I said, it can be very satisfying, especially if you have a need to put an overactive mechanical mind to work.

 

[BC38]

The Lee Hand Press(I have one and use it) takes standard threaded dies. As far as I know, the dies from the "Lee Loader" won't work with it.

Any standard threaded die from Lee, RCBS, Lyman, etc will work fine in the hand press. The Lee dies run from about $30(steel 3-die) to about $45(carbide 4 die). For most handgun purpose, I find the carbide 3 die sets at around $35 to be great. Most of these prices are +/- $5 depending on which specific retailer you check.

Bummer! If that doesn't work then I guess I might as well spend the extra $55 for the Lee Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit for $103. It comes with the scale, funnel, powder measure, etc. Even with 3 sets of dies (380 ACP, 38 Special, 9mm), a bullet puller, and enough bullets powder and primers to load 500 rounds of each caliber the total comes to only $475 (plus shipping) from Midway USA. At 25 cents per round savings (which is VERY conservative) the whole shootin' match almost pays for itself after by the time you've reloaded those first 1500 rounds.

 

[hangnoose]

BUILD YOUR HOUSE FROM THE GROUND UP

A good place/mancave, preferably heated/a/c indoors and a solid, correct height for you solid bench and good lighting. I always recommend trying to buy an entire set up from someone getting out of it, or that has passed away. Buying each item soup to nuts can run into big bucks. I recommend a single stage unless you need a tremendous amount of ammo. there's only one action taking place at a time & it's much easier to keep an eye on one thing as opposed to 4-5 at once. My RCBS rockchucker circa 1970 was bolted to the tailgate of a pick up for years, is a tank and now just gets better & better. & you can't have too many manuals. Don't completely trust just 1. Lyman # 49 is one of the better. If you can find a manual that uses the same gun you are loading for as their test gun it's ideal. Splurge on the press/scale/powder measure. There will always be another item you just have to own. good luck.

 

[Krogen]

Could you list the items?

Sgt Lumpy

Sarge,

Here's the items I thought the HorizontalMike might want to consider. Could be I've missed some things, but this should cover most of his needs to get rolling. Components aren't included as they're a subject unto themselves.

Lee Case Length Gage Shellholder 222 Remington
Lee Case Trimmer Cutter Lock Stud
Lyman Reloading Handbook: 49th Edition Reloading Manual Softcover
RCBS Universal Reloading Tray 50-Round Plastic Green
Hornady Electronic Caliper 6 SS
Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit
Lee Carbide 3-Die Set 38 Special 357 Mag
Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 222 Remington

 

[fredj338]

To be honest, until June 1st, I will be lucky to be able to part with $100/month and that includes ranges fees and ammo. My income stream really starts June 1, unless my stock portfolio (down 35% currently) makes a complete recovery (not likely). Yeah I was kinda dumb in the market back in 2010. Fell, broke 23 ribs/backbones, while fully invested and took eye off the ball...
Not sure I could pull it off at the moment.

Considering the pretty high cost of ammo, reloading really makes even more sense. Granted I have aquired a lot of stuff over the years, but I am shooting 45acp for less than most are shooting 22lr @ todays costs. There are up front costs & as always, buying things in bulk means better prices, but you can roll your own for 50-60% of cheap factory.
Make a reloading buddy or two at the range. Three to four people pooling their $$ gets you better prices on bulk components.
I shoot IDPA 3-4x a month, 100-150rds each match. If I had to buy that much ammo, I wouldn't shoot that much. My club generously lets me shoot free for being SO at the match, so I can save range fees 2-3x a month too.

 

[suckersrus]

RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit $287.99




Once you get the kit, read the book. You may be able to locate a single powder you can use for both of your calibers. Simple is cheaper.

If you know a place where people go to shoot you can pick up some brass for free. If you find brass for a caliber you don't need, trade it.

Order the dies for your calibers along with basic bullets, powder, primers.

 

[HorizontalMike]

Sarge,

Here's the items I thought the HorizontalMike might want to consider. Could be I've missed some things, but this should cover most of his needs to get rolling. Components aren't included as they're a subject unto themselves.

Lee Case Length Gage Shellholder 222 Remington
Lee Case Trimmer Cutter Lock Stud
Lyman Reloading Handbook: 49th Edition Reloading Manual Softcover
RCBS Universal Reloading Tray 50-Round Plastic Green
Hornady Electronic Caliper 6 SS
Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit
Lee Carbide 3-Die Set 38 Special 357 Mag
Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 222 Remington

This looks good to me, but what do I know... I added enough bullets, 1lb. powder(enough?), and primers to do 500rd of .357 (not including brass) and came up with maybe ~$413.00

What about cleaning the brass? Tumbler & media? Alternatives?

 

[blujax01]

...

What about cleaning the brass? Tumbler & media? Alternatives?

A lot of folks don't bother to clean the brass and swear that is doesn't make a difference! Others use a mop bucket and soapy water (Dawn works best) then let them air dry.

I bought a tumbler for ~$50 and $8 worth of media. Later I added a sifter for another $30.

 

[SgtLumpy]

This looks good to me, but what do I know... I added enough bullets, 1lb. powder(enough?), and primers to do 500rd of .357 (not including brass) and came up with maybe ~$413.00

What about cleaning the brass? Tumbler & media? Alternatives?

POWDER:
1 lb = 7000 grains
Whatever your load is, divide that into 7000 and you'll get an approximation of how many rounds it would load under ideal conditions. For example, if you plan on loading 4.0 grains of some powder, 7000 grains would allow that to happen about 1750 times.

BUT

There is loss in powder. Loads in error, spillage, granules that creep past loading devices or stick in the bottle etc. Especially at first, figure a generous amount of powder loss. Same with primers. You'll lose some of them to normal and expectable gremlins.

You pay a $25 (or $27) hazmat fee to buy powder and primers online whether you buy 1 item or 100. So to amortize that fee it helps to buy a lot of powder or primers in one order. Example, buy 1000 primers for $30, pay the $25 hazmat fee. Buy 5000 primers for $150, still pay only one $25 hazmat fee.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[Big Cholla]

HM: I wondered if I could add to what has been posted and egotistically thought that since I have been reloading for about 58 years I might have something to contribute. Then the epiphany hit.......what am I going to do with all this 'stuff' in the next 10 to 12 years when I am no longer able to reload and go to the range and shoot. ........... So, how about you networking a little, advertise a little and think about finding a man ready to get out or his widow that just wants that 'stuff' gone? Make a deal to take it all and pay $50 a month out of your budget. Serious reloaders all acquire lots of pieces that for reasons are not suitable for what we are interested in at the present time. In this process find a person that is well experienced that doesn't mind mentoring you in the nuances of the various reloading processes. Safety was mentioned. Pay attention here! I personally know a guy that dropped a Dillion primer filler tube that was full of primers on the concrete floor. It exploded and he lost an eye. Also, several that have double charged pistol cartridges when using small measures of a fast burning powder; a couple got off easy, a couple blew up their handguns. No powder in a load is just as bad resulting in a "Squib" load that could result in a stuck bullet in a bore. That results in a deadly situation in a rifle, a nuisance in a pistol.

I really like Dillon products and use the Model 550 for all my quantity straight wall case loading. I use RCBS RockChuckers for all rifle except benchrest. I have two; one is 54 years old and the youngster is only 29. I have a Redding Turret for experimental rifle load workups, a Ponsness-Warren for 20ga. and a MEC 600 for 12ga. If you start with a RockChucker, you can do every thing you want in pistol and rifle for a long time.

No one has mentioned the small hand press available from Huntington
Die Specialist in Oroville, CA.. They call it the HDS compac press. It retails for $141, but as many don't know how to use it, it shows up on ebay quite often at a much reduced price. I use it to deprime and prime 38 special in my shop when making 'try' loads for a revolver or to just make rubber projectile/primer powered loads for fun in the shop. No reason you couldn't use it for your .38 Special loads, but it wouldn't be great for the 222R rifle. I also use it at the range when working on the final little changes in a particular pistol load. I "C" clamp it to a thick sheet of plywood projecting out of the bed of my pickup. You are welcome to PM me if you think I might be of help. ........... Big Cholla

 

[SgtLumpy]

...Also, several that have double primed pistol cartridges when using small measures of a fast burning powder; a couple got off easy, a couple blew up their handguns...

I don't think you meant to say double PRIMED here.

But BC's message is very important. I set up my stuff so that I can see into each charged case before I stick the bullet on top. You get used to seeing the powder at a particular level inside the case. If it's too high or too low, you can see it. Pull it and run the case back through.

I have a miniMag-lite rigged so that it shines into each case at that point in the load sequence for exactly that reason.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[tlay]

With my turret press I took the rotating mechanism off and do each step at one time. I usually do 100 rounds at a time. This is for hand guns. I resize and deprime while repriming a case and put it primer side up in the tray. I do all 100 rounds now. I am able to look at all rounds to see that I have primers in,
I now turn the turret to the next station and put the powder in. I put it in the tray open end up. I do all 100 cases and when done I take a light and check to make sure all cases have powder.
I now turn the turret and put a bullet in and seat it. I don't crimp it at this station. I do all 100 cases and put them in the tray bullet side up.
I now turn the turret and crimp each case with the Lee factory crimp die. You are now finished.
I know it sounds like a lot of trouble but I have not had double shot of powder nor a squib load yet.

 

[BC38]

This is GREAT thread. I'm learning a lot just from reading through it. Thanks to all you experienced reloaders for sharing your tips & tricks!