J frame experts

Chief36

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Hello,
I'm new to this so please bear with me. I have two J frames I could use some info/advice on:


1) Blued, no model number stamped, 2 inch barrel, serial # in the low 18000's. Four screws. If I'm reading some of the posted info correctly, it was built in 1952 Is this correct? I'm considering putting a three inch barrel on it. Is this left hand or right hand threaded for the extractor rod? If it's threaded for right hand is the extractor rod for a 3 inch barrel a rare piece? Does it interchange with any other models? It's in really good shape so maybe I should not mess with it but I just bought a blued 3 inch barrel.


2) Stainless model 60, no dash, 2 inch barrel, serial # in the low 169000's, 2 screws. Any idea on year of manufacture?
Left or right threaded?


Thanks in advance. Much appreciated.
 
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Chief36, welcome to the forum!

1. All J frames have left hand extractor threads since they were introduced in 1950. And yes built in 1952. However it's a 5 screw and your Model 60 is a 3 screw; you missed the screw covered by the right grip on both guns.

I'm presuming your gun is chambered in .38 S&W Special and it's a Model 38 Chiefs Special. (Not in .38 S&W cartridge which is an I frame and would be from 1953; the Model .38 Terrier).

Either one would have a left hand threaded extractor rod, but the rod for the 3" Terrier is shorter because the gun is made on the shorter I frame. And the barrel bores are slightly different. Do you have the barrel yet, and if so, which cartridge is marked on it?

No, the 3" barrel is not scarce for either cartridge. Your 2" should have the ramp front sight with barrel rib. That's the only style sight a 3" barrel .38 S&W Special barrel will have. The .38 S&W barrel can also be found with a 1/2 round front sight and no barrel rib.

When searching for a 3" barrel, recognize the early ones for your gun are tapered slender barrels, later on, heavy no taper barrels were offered as well. The slender barrel will match the front of your frame better. But the extra weight of the heavy barrel will very slightly help tame recoil if that's an issue.

J frame rod = 2.44"+ or -, I frame rod = 2.30" + or -.

You'll also need a longer cylinder ctr pin:
J frame = 3.50 + or -, I frame = 3.32" + or -.
I say + or - after the dimensions because these parts may need slight simple fitting of the length on the front ends for proper smooth operation.

I also much prefer the 3" barrel; the tapered slender barrel.


2. The Model 60 in the #169000s range is a bad # or the "R" was left out of the #. They began at #401754. If it's #R169000s, it was built in 1976-77.

Congrats for wanting to keep the gun in the family.
 
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Thank you all. Just learned allot. Should've stopped here first. The barrel hasn't arrived yet....but it might soon be for sale!
Thanks again
 
Thank you all. Just learned allot. Should've stopped here first. The barrel hasn't arrived yet....but it might soon be for sale!
Thanks again

Have you determined which cartridge your gun is chambered for?

By the way, I've added some additional detail to my first post above.
 
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Jack,

Yes you're right, a Model 36, (and before that a pre 36 in 1953).

The earliest Airweight Bodyguard was introduced in 1955 at this approximate serial number 66000.

And for a Centennial and Cent Airweight (both introduced in 1952 and started at #1 in a new # range), it's an awful high #.
 
Thanks again. Both my guns are 38 special as is the incoming barrel which is tapered. On a side note, I've noticed the pachmayr grips cause a clearance issue for the hammer when cooking into single action
 
Chief36... No one has mentioned that your Chiefs Special is an early one that collectors call the "Baby Chief". They are very desirable, and if you alter it by re-barreling it, it will destroy any collector interest. They are a joy to own and carry, and I would not recommend altering it, although, of course its your gun. The earliest ones have the so called "half penny' front sight, and are probably the most desirable of the Babys.

We all love photos here!!! BTW, Welcome to the forum!!

PPS.... Hondo44 above is one of the worlds experts on the J frames, and penned the section on these guns in the "Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson", so you can pretty mush take what he says about these to the bank!! (Sorry, Jim, hope you aren't blushing!).

Here's my "Baby" from May of 1952:

les-b-albums-some-of-my-j-frame-s-and-ws-picture16728-s-w-baby-chief-smooth-ramp-version-shipped-may-1952-a.jpeg


Best Regards, Les
 
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If you do decide you want the 3" barrel, don't try to change it yourself without a frame wrench. The frame must be correctly supported when the barrel is broken loose or it could well get twisted. The pin is NOT what keeps the barrel from turning. It is a redundant feature later deleted. The barrel has been torqued with rear shoulder of barrel against frame.

I am a gun modifier myself, but I would leave that one alone.
 
I like modified guns, but I wouldn't touch that '52. Pick up a modern 3" and you have stainless, can shoot 357, and it can be replaced if something happens. Keep family heirloom guns as they are and at home.
 
Don't do it!

Not a expert compared to others way more experienced. Im not a fan of 3" and I've had 3. Not as concealable as 2", not as easy to shoot well as 4". If your gun is collectible and family owned leave it. There is effective ammo available for you.
 
Thanks again. Both my guns are 38 special as is the incoming barrel which is tapered. On a side note, I've noticed the pachmayr grips cause a clearance issue for the hammer when cooking into single action

You're always welcome.

The hammer travels further back for single action cocking so that's why you get a little clearance issue with rubber grips. Since you'll likely only be shooting double action in a self defense situation, not to worry about. But if it's an annoyance, you can trim the grip slightly or sand down the rubber to clear.

Sounds like you're all set with the right barrel incoming. The rod and ctr pin are most easily found at Midway on line:

Ctr pin here: Smith & Wesson Extractor Rod J-Frame Model 31 34 63 631 632 650 651

Ext rod here: Smith & Wesson Extractor Rod J-Frame Model 31 34 63 631 632 650 651


Members cautioning about changing the barrel are looking out for you. I would suggest keeping the 2" barrel of course, it has a matching serial # to the gun. The gun can be put back to original configuration and it won't be modified for installing the 3" barrel. Only the 3" may need fitting to the gun.
 
Hi Chief36, and welcome aboard from Wyo.

I'm in the camp of "don't mess with that 'Baby'."

The Baby Chiefs were only made for four years -- 1950-1954. A 3" Baby was available, but there are only about 20-25 known to exist (based on posts in this forum).

The model that followed is called the Model of 1953; however, the only Chiefs known to have shipped in 1953 were the Airweight models made of an aluminum alloy. The steel Model of 1953 Chiefs began shipping around June 1954.

Looking forward to seeing photos of yours.
 
Sorry. Don't know what happened with the orientation of the attached photo. I know the gun works, just didn't know if the photo would...and it only kind of did!

Thanks again to all
 
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