J Frame Questions from Beginner

[hotrod150]

.....Why don't you buy yourself a less expensive copy of a 'J' frame - such as a Taurus or a Rossi - carry it for a while and see if you like the feel. If you do - then sell it off and invest in a J frame... .

I don't think you'd save enough money doing this to make it worth the time & hassle. I doubt youre gonna find a Tauyrus for much under $300, which is what I paid for two different 442-2's in the past year or so. Paid the same for a vintage model 36 last summer. Good deals are out there- you just have to find them..
I do prefer my vintage Chief Specials (I currently own five and have bought & sold 6 or 7 others in the past couple years), but IMHO the 442/642 is about the best value there is in an good-for-everything self-defense gun for the average person. Yes they do require practice to obtain proficiency, but the DAO revolver is simple to load, simple to operate, easy to carry, and affordable to boot. Load, point and pull. No bang? Pull again. Much less chance of an accidental (dare I say premature?) discharge than with a cockable SA-capable model like the Chief. I will admit that after owning all three different models of the vintage Chief Spl, a couple airweight Centennials, and a couple Colt Dick Spl's, plus some larger guns (k-frames 1911's etc)-- the S&W model 36 is my favorite gun. I currently own three and am scheming to get another soon.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

You really don't need another reply but I'll toss one in, anyway.

For pocket carry the ideal J-frame has either a concealed or a shrouded hammer. You can carry one with a hammer but it's pointless to buy one to start with when you already know that the lack of a hammer makes pocket carry extremely easy.

That said, 442, 642, it doesn't matter from a real world viewpoint. They're lightweight, hammers are concealed, they're ideal. I carry a 642 every day. I load it with high quality .38 Special self defense ammunition, no +P, I want an easy second shot if I'm defending myself, I don't need to fight off recoil to get back on target. I'd never even shoot a lightweight J-frame with .357 Magnum ammo at the range, even if it's designed for it. Who needs that much pain? It's not worth it, never mind the getting back on target issue if you're carrying it.

The phrase that is oft used is that these guns are designed to be shot a little and carried a lot. But if practice is painful it's just silly. YMMV.

***GRJ***

 

[gvrogers1]

I have carried a 442 for about three years. Best holster for me is a front pocket Desanti Nemisis. The airweight is about 10 oz lighter than a 649. So I would look for a 442 without the internal lock (looks ugly IMO), buy the holster for around $20, and then buy a Crimson Trace Laser (CTL) and install it yourself. I bought the CTL model that is more recoil forgiving and just costs a few bucks more. With those grips, recoil has never been an issue for me with the airweight. You won't be disappointed. Best of luck.

 

[gvrogers1]

FYI, the CTL I have is model LG405 rubber overmold and apparently designed to reduce perceived recoil. I think its great.

 

[Matt Hooper]

I was in the same boat. I also have arthritis and am a bit recoil sensitive. The best answer for me was a 649! A bit hard to find but this is an all steel revolver with a shrouded hammer that's perfect for CCW!! The airweights are NOT fun to shoot so I decided to go with all steel.

Without a doubt the most accurate snubbie I have ever shot. Brilliant gun!

Shown here with some Ahrends cocobolo grips I had kicking around and a vintage Don Hume paddle holster (perfect fit)! Thanks for looking!

 

[mg357]

s&w model 36 2 inch barrel. or a S&W Model 60-15 3 inch barrel.

 

[photoman]

A pre-lock 642 or 640 with three finger rubber grips and Hornady 110 grain standard pressure FTX ammo is my recommendation.