just acquired a really rough model 36, looks like from 1955

E

El_Phantasmo

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Hey everybody. I just got a model 36 with a serial number of 721XX. From poking around on the innerwebs it looks like it was made in 1955. Does that sound right?

Anyway, it's got a lot of surface rust, and everything that moves is really stiff, but nothing is seized up. I'm going to give it to a gunsmith to go over and make sure its safe, but I'm kinda excited to add this to my S&W wheelgun collection!

I know it's hard without pictures, but anybody know a rough ballpark value?

I'll try to post a pic or two.

Thanks for reading
 
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Ahh, just figured it out, there's a J in front of the number but its really rusted right there so its hard to see.

Mystery solved
 
If it has a lot of surface rust it isn't worth much over $350 tops. Lots of nice model 36s around.

Don't spend more money on it. Learn from it. Soak it in ATF and kerosene for a couple days. Have an Ace Hardware order you some Bronze wool. After a few days soaking in the oil solution, with the grips off, the Bronze wool will clean off the rust easy and loosen up any crud. Get a hollow ground screw drive to remove side plate screws, Watch some videos on disassembly and stat learning.If you can't put it back together then take it to gunsmith, he should be able to do it in 20 minutes tops. It isn't hard.

Search here on how to check out function on revolver
 
^^^
Good advice there.

ATF & Kerosene is good, and I usually do the same thing (but I soak the gun in Kroil). Just make sure that you go easy with the wool, and ONLY use bronze wool. Good luck.
 
Just got it? I'd say it's worth what you paid for it. Wait, did you pay for it or steal it? If you inherited it or got it as a gift it's priceless.

Should have a model number stamped on it.
 
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If in that condition, $350 would be a very optimistic value estimate. You can find a Model 36 in fairly decent original condition for that - Model 36s are very common. You have what's called a "project gun." I am still unsure what its serial number is.
 
The $350 Tops quote was best case, if it cleans up good with no real pits.

I'll take a nice 2" model 36 for $350 if anyone here is selling. I only have a 3" square butt 36-1. Anymore most of I see are priced at $500, but good older revolvers are hard to find here.

A finish challenged 2" 36, that has been de horned would a good no worries pocket gun. In a pocket holster of course.
 
steelslaver said:
If it has a lot of surface rust it isn't worth much over $350 tops. Lots of nice model 36s around.

Don't spend more money on it. Learn from it. Soak it in ATF and kerosene for a couple days. Have an Ace Hardware order you some Bronze wool. After a few days soaking in the oil solution, with the grips off, the Bronze wool will clean off the rust easy and loosen up any crud. Get a hollow ground screw drive to remove side plate screws, Watch some videos on disassembly and stat learning.If you can't put it back together then take it to gunsmith, he should be able to do it in 20 minutes tops. It isn't hard.

Search here on how to check out function on revolver
Click to expand...

Great info, thanks!


To answer a few questions, I paid $200. I took a gamble that it's fixable, I don't need a safe queen, I've got plenty of those, it was a cool guns with a cool story behind it, I got it from a close friend.

It's got lots of surface rust, and its pitted in a few places, but the inside of the barrel seemed to escape the damage, and everything that should move does move, it's just stiff, so I'm thinking as long as it locks up and the timing is A-OK then it will be a cool shooter.

The serial number is J721XX, It's stamped Model 36.

I will try to post a pic, any recommendations on a decent photo hosting sites? I used to use photobucket but I dumped it when they started charging.

Thanks again for everybody's comments.
 
If you can do something as intricate as rebuilding an old carburetor, you can take it apart, try to clean it up and restore it's safe function yourself. There are some good YouTube videos on this. It probably won't win any beauty contest. Not to worry as long as it functions correctly.

I love my beaters too and I enjoy projects. It's nice to have something to just take out and shoot, stick in your pocket and just use without having to worry about putting a mark on it or hurting it's value.
 
OP: By all means take it to the 'smith. Operating condition is paramount! Many Chiefs from that era were off-duty weapons that were fired only for qualification. I've seen more than a few Chiefs that were challenged on the exterior, but functioned perfectly. But let a 'smith inspect it and tell you this, especially if you plan to use the gun for CC/SD.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
PS, mods, feel free to move this thread, my fault that I posted in the wrong forum.

My apologies
 
Welcome aboard from the hill of ol' Wyo.

If you get it working okay I'd say you got a good deal.

You can post photos directly from your computer (don't need a host). When you're in the "Reply to Thread" screen, scroll down to "Manage Attachments," click that and follow the prompts.

Many here are familiar with a 1953 Chiefs Special I rescued a little more than a year ago. Here's the story:

Rusty, etched 3" Baby Chiefs -- hammer down - range day at post #55

Don't spend money on a gun smith till you get it cleaned up, and then only if you can't get it to function correctly.

ps: 6518John types faster than me!
 
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