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geeollie
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I had an 80's Rock Chucker but just knew I needed a Dillons for the speed.
Spent too much and realized that I did not enjoy the speed or the procedure of the "better" faster press. I did not get my money back ob the Dillon. I am relatively new back to reloading and am sooooo happy to have kept the old, slow, ancient tech Rock Chucker.
Not saying it will be right for you, but am saying "good on you" for analysis paralysis. You'llmake the right choice for you!
Spent too much and realized that I did not enjoy the speed or the procedure of the "better" faster press. I did not get my money back ob the Dillon. I am relatively new back to reloading and am sooooo happy to have kept the old, slow, ancient tech Rock Chucker.
Not saying it will be right for you, but am saying "good on you" for analysis paralysis. You'llmake the right choice for you!
The Dec 7/8 Akron show typically has very little in the reloading realm. The Dec 14/15 Yankee lake show typically has much in the reloading realm. Last time I was there I picked up a Lyman turret press (now have 3).
The 3 I have are the Lyman obsolete All-American 4 position turret press. The 1st one I got in the 70s' and still going strong. The largest cartridge I've ever reloaded is the 30-06. I like turrets in their ability to have multiple dies loaded and ready. The 1st press is sitting there with the 3 dies for 38sp/357M and a Lyman powder measure/dropper. The 2nd press is sitting there with a RCBS bullet puller of which I have 9 collets for and a RCBS decapping die.
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Bloodhound
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As I said, I have a love of RCBS, Single stage Rock Chucker. It is my rifle loading rig. But for pistol, I have used a Dillon 550, a Dillon Square Deal B and a friend's Monster Dillon press. I found that I don't shoot so many rounds that a progressive is needed. When I added straight walled pistol to my reloading, .38, 9mm and 45 ACP, I picked up a CH 3 stage Block H press. It is plenty "fast" for my needs and I have gotten rid of the progressives for pistol reloading. Its crazy that CH is still in business and they are still a quality machine, if not a bit pricey...mine came from my loading mentor and is an old model. It is a nice middle ground between single stage and progressives, a Turret would also be a nice middle ground
GypsmJim
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I realize that many have commented about buying used. Personally, I have never gone that route.
Gun show stuff is usually rusted junk and/or overpriced. I look at estate sale ads and often go to the good ones, only to find out that the reloading stuff was sold before the sale, or only lasted a few minutes.
Just for grins and giggles I looked up local CL and Ebay ads and saw nothing to buy that was worthwhile.
I guess we can all hope for a good deal eventually.
max503
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Welcome to the club!
I would not start out with a progressive press. Even if you have money to burn. A person needs to learn the intricacies that a single stage will teach you.
Then get a progressive if you feel you need it. I do most of my loading on an RCBS single stage and I could easily live with that alone.
I would not start out with a progressive press. Even if you have money to burn. A person needs to learn the intricacies that a single stage will teach you.
Then get a progressive if you feel you need it. I do most of my loading on an RCBS single stage and I could easily live with that alone.
Got 11 pounds of powder and a RCBS A2 press...all for a 100 dollars when heading into the gun show today....had to take it all or none...unfortunately. I never made it in to the show...too many people...tomorrow...maybe.
The initial stages of learning something new take time. Particularly if he is loading rifle, he can't go wrong with a RCBS RC Supreme. It's really a nice press, however slow. A die set, a ram prime set, some case prep tools and a scale, a current Lyman reloading manual, and a friend to walk him through the first few rounds. He can buy a tumbler and other tools next month. The initial investment in a good press saves headaches later. (There are other good cast iron presses by every major maker that are also good. But the RCBS is the best in its price range for rifle, IMHO.)
I think the manual and a good friend to help with the initial setup make the initial loads much easier. I made a lot of mistakes trying to figure things out on my own. And received a lot of benefit from a few hours with a good teacher. Just saying.
I think the manual and a good friend to help with the initial setup make the initial loads much easier. I made a lot of mistakes trying to figure things out on my own. And received a lot of benefit from a few hours with a good teacher. Just saying.
smoothshooter
Member
What I have found is that little to no money is saved by reloading your own ammo.
You usually spend the same money as before. The difference is that you just get to shoot more for the same amount of money.
max503
Member
But when the shelves are bare, you're still out there - shooting.
That is if you were astute enough to stock up beforehand like any good reloader should be.
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GypsmJim
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I shoot weekly in the Winter at my club, and every other week in the Summer at my camp. Basically, my quantities are the same as always. So, I don't shoot any more.
Buttttttt, if I had to pay today's prices for loaded ammo, I may not shoot at all.
My equipment cost was amortized 30 years ago. With my lead supply my boolits are free. And yes, I DID stock up ahead of time when the climate showed that I needed to.
For a nickle I can load 9mm or 45 Colt or shoot .22 rimfire. For me that's money saved.
GypsmJim
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Now here's the deal. Midsouth Shooter's Supply Sale....
I buy most of my stuff from them so I get weekly sale emails.
* A complete RCBS "KIT" - looks like everything a newby would need to get started. 275 bucks.
I don't think anyone could get going cheaper unless they bought a whack-a-mole.
I buy most of my stuff from them so I get weekly sale emails.
* A complete RCBS "KIT" - looks like everything a newby would need to get started. 275 bucks.
I don't think anyone could get going cheaper unless they bought a whack-a-mole.
what brand 338 Win. Full-Length Die Set ?
Ivan the Butcher
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My personal recommendations would be in this order 1) REDDING, 2) RCBS, 3) BONANZA, 4) LYMAN, 5) toss up between HORNADY & LEE.
If you have dies already, I'd stick with the same brand for parts interchangeability. However, over time a brand can chance which thread patters they use.
Ivan
GypsmJim
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* Of course, powder, primers, brass and bullets.
* tube of case lube.
* Set of Lee dippers.
* Hand priming tool.
* Lyman (or other) manual.
Add to that a piece of 1x pine with holes drilled to stand the cases up, a small plastic funnel to pour powder and a small screw driver to clean primer pockets and you got a poor man's setup that will adequately make fine usable ammo.
As time goes by, a scale, powder measure, and a second $25 Lee press to speed up the operation.
Got a RCBS Jr in 1973......Still use it to load my Hunting rifle cartridges...Rest of bench is Blue(Dillon) and Red (MEC)
I think starting with a basic press, scale, dies, case trimmer, lube, powder, bullets, primers and instruction manuals is what he should do. He will need a sturdy bench to mount the press and good lighting. I would buy used if possible because presses last a looooooong time.
I don't shoot enough rifle to warrant the set up. Starting with straight walled pistol which is the easiest ammo to produce would be my recommendation, but if he is just reloading to reduce costs of the large rifle cartridges, I would spend the minimum as it will take quite a few reloads to recoup the costs.
FWIW
I don't shoot enough rifle to warrant the set up. Starting with straight walled pistol which is the easiest ammo to produce would be my recommendation, but if he is just reloading to reduce costs of the large rifle cartridges, I would spend the minimum as it will take quite a few reloads to recoup the costs.
FWIW
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If buying used, check for excessive play in the ram.
Our Spartan, from 4+ decades ago, was replaced
with an RCBS and a 550.
I still use the old Lee Zero Error kit, 223/5.56,
for the No.1V.
Always used a Lee Hand Primer and 5-0-5 scale.
Have an electronic scale, as well, but still scoop and weigh.
Our Spartan, from 4+ decades ago, was replaced
with an RCBS and a 550.
I still use the old Lee Zero Error kit, 223/5.56,
for the No.1V.
Always used a Lee Hand Primer and 5-0-5 scale.
Have an electronic scale, as well, but still scoop and weigh.
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besshoudini
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If you know someone who loads ask them to see there set up.
I'm going to add........
Besides debating cost savings, you never know nowadays when the ammo or component supply is going to suddenly dry up, usually due to some social/political turmoil. It has happened several times in my reloading career. Nowadays with the hostility toward shooting sports I can happen any time. If you keep a good stock of components you are never denied ammo to shoot when the store shelves are bare.
Besides debating cost savings, you never know nowadays when the ammo or component supply is going to suddenly dry up, usually due to some social/political turmoil. It has happened several times in my reloading career. Nowadays with the hostility toward shooting sports I can happen any time. If you keep a good stock of components you are never denied ammo to shoot when the store shelves are bare.
Do yourself a big favor and get an RCBS Base Plate. The plate screws down with 4 small screws and is drilled and tapped for everything RCBS sells. This way, you don't have a bench top full of holes for everything that you use..
Accessory Base Plate-3
Accessory Base Plate-3
BillBro
Member
I bought a RCBS RC kit about 8 or 9 years ago and its all I load with, and I use it alot. Not a week has gone by that I havent used it as I shoot every weekend and sometimes twice weekly. I even still use the powder funnel it came with. I havent really added anything to it save for die sets. I cant imagine how many tens of thousands of rounds Ive loaded with that $350 beginners kit and it still works perfectly. I load 5.56, 6.8 and 6mmARC. 9MM, 10mm, 38spl,357mag, 44Spl,44mag, 45acp, 45colt and 454casull all on my single stage beginners kit. Did I mention it was only $350? It was only $350.
Save money reloading? I do. It depends on what YOU reload though. If its only 9mm and 5.56 probably not. I shoot alot of 44mag, 44spl, 45colt and 454casull, usually no less than 100 of either but many times its many more (454casull is in a lever gun) so yes I have saved alot of money
Save money reloading? I do. It depends on what YOU reload though. If its only 9mm and 5.56 probably not. I shoot alot of 44mag, 44spl, 45colt and 454casull, usually no less than 100 of either but many times its many more (454casull is in a lever gun) so yes I have saved alot of money
Not sure how accurate those powder measure/droppers are,
but a good beam scale, something to scoop the powder, a funnel, a flashlight and a 50 case holder tray, eliminates the need to fuss with and clean something, that ain't necessary.
Look at the powder level in every case, prior to seating the bullet,
and a KABOOM free life is possible.
If you do have to crimp/firm-up the case mouth, do it as a two step process, seat.... crimp/firm-up.
A 338WM, deserves to be as accurate as possible,
so, case prep is important.
The only bottleneck we have, is the 223/5.56.
The Lee Zero Error kit is still used for bolt or the No.1V.
Red powder dipper then on the scale.
My boy and his Marine Gunnery Sergeant buddy, couldn't find the factory ammo, so they used my precision loads in their new 6920s.
Sad but true.
but a good beam scale, something to scoop the powder, a funnel, a flashlight and a 50 case holder tray, eliminates the need to fuss with and clean something, that ain't necessary.
Look at the powder level in every case, prior to seating the bullet,
and a KABOOM free life is possible.
If you do have to crimp/firm-up the case mouth, do it as a two step process, seat.... crimp/firm-up.
A 338WM, deserves to be as accurate as possible,
so, case prep is important.
The only bottleneck we have, is the 223/5.56.
The Lee Zero Error kit is still used for bolt or the No.1V.
Red powder dipper then on the scale.
My boy and his Marine Gunnery Sergeant buddy, couldn't find the factory ammo, so they used my precision loads in their new 6920s.
Sad but true.
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gjgalligan
Member
What time frame do you mean for quantity? Week, month, decade? You have explain that to a newbie as they have no idea.
What is high monthly quantity to one person may be lifetime quantity to somebody else.
I started out almost 13 years ago with a Lee 4 hole turret press. It has served me well and I really don't need anything more fancy (or costly) to support my habit. It can be used progressive or single stage.
Nobody in my family is gonna want it when I no longer can use it so I will not waste money on what I don't need.
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This, right here, exactly. This entire hobby is under relentless attack. Reloading and bullet casting are now just a matter of survival, if you want to be able to shoot at all.
As a kid, I thought reloading your ammo was just part of shooting.
The last debacle saw me learning to make black powder and remaking primers.
Glad to see the OP's friend is starting out with the Rockchucker. Simple, solid and will last forever.
The biggest leap forward for me over the years was the Little Dandy powder measure and a complete set of rotors. I can hand hold the measure over the loading block and hit 50 or a hundred cases in a minute or two. Another piece of equipment that will last a lifetime.
I started out with Lee dippers......
They work well, but you don't know exactly what your load is. It's best to develop good and consistent technique checking throws against a scale. Before I got a scale I used a lab scale at work. I have in my notebooks some loads, especially rifle loads that I can use the dippers with. I even made some of my own dippers out of cut down cases.
Like I said, it works, but the best combination I've had so far (had some balance beams) is my RCBS Uniflow powder measure and a digital scale. I can either use is to check every so often or weigh every charge. I have a method that works fast. I tare the case on the scale, charge it with powder and put it back on the scale.
They work well, but you don't know exactly what your load is. It's best to develop good and consistent technique checking throws against a scale. Before I got a scale I used a lab scale at work. I have in my notebooks some loads, especially rifle loads that I can use the dippers with. I even made some of my own dippers out of cut down cases.
Like I said, it works, but the best combination I've had so far (had some balance beams) is my RCBS Uniflow powder measure and a digital scale. I can either use is to check every so often or weigh every charge. I have a method that works fast. I tare the case on the scale, charge it with powder and put it back on the scale.
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