K-22 Outdoorsman double-action sear issue

[thefresh2o]

Hi folks,

I have a 1932 K-22 O/D (with the gold Call Bead) S/N 633921.

When I bought it, the original hammer had seen some "work" done on the S/A sear. So, I hunted around and found a NIB humpback hammer.

I swapped out the stirrup and D/A sear. and dropped it in. All worked well. Not my first rodeo here - but my first with a long-action.

A few years of happy shooting later, there is a noticeable 'notch' developing when the trigger bevel lifts the D/A sear. It's bugging me. It's like the sear is lifting too soon on the trigger bevel and if I can delay the point they meet, that will stop the sear lifting off the trigger bevel too soon. It's almost like it's catching slightly on the top end of the bevel.

So, to my question for the brains trust here:

• How should I deal to this notch?
• If I want to increase letout slightly and move the location the trigger bevel lifts the sear, how is best to do this?
• Given this is a long-action, where can I remove metal to do this? Is the pencil pointing to the correct spot?

I live in New Zealand & there's a distinct lack of S&W smithing expertise in this country, so I am obliged to undertake my own work...

Thanks in advance
Evan

 

[armorer951]

Sear "click", if that's what you are describing, occurs at the beginning of the trigger stroke, and happens because the sear contact with the trigger bevel is too far back. This causes the bottom of the sear to catch momentarily as the trigger bevel begins it's travel upwards.
When checking for this, be sure not to cycle the action under mainspring tension with the sideplate off.

If this is the issue, and since parts are hard to find, I would first try polishing the bottom of the sear with crocus cloth. Basically just polish the existing surface, while maintaning its current shape etc. This may remedy the issue without removing material.

The other possible fix would be to remove material from the adjustment step at the top of the sear. (in very small increments, testing as you go) This will result in the sear being "let out" at the bottom (sear will move out farther when at rest) which will move the interface between the sear and bevel out away from the hammer slightly.

Before making changes involving material removal, I would source another sear and try it first. The "new" sear may solve the problem without altering the one you have now.

 

[WR Moore]

Never worked on a long action, but....... since it worked initially, have you looked at the spring? Also, the sharp front edge of the front end of the sear might be/contribute to your problem. The short action has a very slight breaking of the front edge of the DA sear.

I'm not exactly clear when your "notch" is happening. You might need to work the action with the side plate off (either don't use the mainspring or have it barely functional) and see where the "notch" happens.

 

[Protocall_Design]

You may also want to polish the top mating surface of the trigger. Make sure it's not developing a low spot where the DA sear initially contacts it. The DA sear has to smoothly slide forward on the trigger in the beginning.

 

[fleabus101]

Email me at...
[email protected]..
I'll mail you a new pre war sear, if you think that will help you. Let me know what is the best & cheapest
way to mail it to you , too..This one's on me...

 

[fleabus101]

My mistake buddy. My head was,ahead of my mouth.
I presently don't have the sear you need on hand. If I come across one I'll contact you. Sorry for my mistaken thought.
Best, Randy..

 

[thefresh2o]

I really appreciate the thoughts and guidance.

I'm going to set aside some time tonight, once I get my three boys to bed, to have a tinker. I'll polish the surfaces first, and check that the front edge of the sear is (slightly) broken. I'll then see how that goes before doing anything more aggressive.

If this doesn't work, I will look to remove material from the adjustment step at the top of the sear to increase the letout.

Carter aka Armorer951, you stated I shouldn't cycle the action under mainspring tension with the sideplate off. Can you please expand on that? I've not heard that before.

 

[steelslaver]

Cycling the action with the mainspring under tension with the side plate off isn't a good idea because the hammer stud isn't supported on both sides (same for trigger BTW) . This can cause the studs to be flexed sideways and possibly break off.